EATC o-ring repair - How to... with pics.

[Black_Noise]

Well, it was my turn for the EATC fixing, I used JAcook's walkthrough about it and I took pics to help with those who might be scared to do it, its pretty easy.


JACook:
I know others have revived their EATCs by swapping in the vacuum solenoid assembly from other Ford
products, but I decided to dig a bit deeper. The problem was an o-ring inside one of the EATC solenoids.
Total cost to fix the problem- 'Bout 25 cents, and a couple hours of my time.

Replacing the o-rings requires disassembly of the solenoids, but that's really not that hard to do, if one
has reasonably good mechanical aptitude. But first, make sure they hold vacuum when not energized.
Connect a hose to the center vacuum port (where the black tube was connected) and suck it. :rolleyes:
It should hold vacuum. If it doesn't, the following fix probably isn't for you.

The solenoid assembly comes off the EATC module by unscrewing the two T-20 Torx screws on the
back side of the module. Pivot the rear of the assembly up, and disengage the tabs at the front of
the module. Disconnect the solenoid connector.

Lay the solenoid assembly on it's back, and remove the 10 screws holding the solenoids and plenum
strap to the plastic frame. At the wiring end of each solenoid, you'll see two metal tabs folded over,
that hold the solenoid coil and armature to the solenoid frame. Straighten these tabs and then carefully
pull out the armature, while watching you don't lose the spring or plunger that are inside. Note the
o-ring on the armature. That's what we're after.

Next, slide the coil off the end of the plenum tube, and then pinch the ends of the solenoid frame
together to release it from the plenum. Once the solenoid is all apart, fit the armature back into the
end of the plenum tube to check that the o-ring has a good snug fit. If it does, clean the inside of
the tube, and reassemble the solenoid. You can replace the o-ring if you like, but if it fits well, there's
no need.

Make sure you pay attention to the screw flanges on the solenoid frame. Pinch the end of the frame
together to fit it back onto the plenum. The spacer that goes at the plenum end of the solenoid
has the inside diameter undercut, and four grooves. The undercut end goes toward the plenum, and
you'll see four ribs at the base of the plenum tube that mate with the four grooves in the spacer.

The armature slides back on next, followed by the plunger, and then the spring. (The flat end of
the plunger goes into the hole first, if you missed how it came out.) Use a bit of dielectric grease on
the o-ring, (I used Nylog) but do not use any oil or anything on the plunger. Make sure the tip of the
armature where the plunger seals against it, is clean and shiny. Don't get any dielectric grease on the
tip of the armature. Clean and dry is what you want here. Slide the armature back into the end of the
solenoid, and while pressing everything back together, fold the metal tabs back over.

Repeat this for each of the four solenoids. On mine, the one that was leaking was for the floor vent
door (red hose). It was obvious when I got to that one. The armature came out much easier than the
others, and when I test-fitted the armature back into the plenum tube,
it was a much looser fit.


Or for those who are better seeing than reading...

- Remove the dash trim about the EATC unit (pulls up from the passenger side all the way to the steering wheels)

- Remove the 4 screws on the front of the unit holding it in.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111910.jpg


- Remove the 2 electical connectors, then the 2 black nuts holding the vacuum connector on the ports.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111649.jpg



Once the unit is out, remove the 2 gold torqs screws on the back, then the top half will lift up and off. This is the vacuum soleniods and vacuum plenum.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111416.jpg



-Once they are off, unplug the wire connector to the solenoids.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111308.jpg



Once the vacuum solenoid assembly is off remove all 10 of the screws holding it all down, (here you can skip to the step about bending the tabs on the rear of the solenoid if you just need to replace the o-ring) then you can gently pry up the 2 long arms that are closest to the middle of plenum.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111238.jpg


once that is off you can pull the whole solenoid and frame straight off.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30110302.jpg


Once the solenoid is off, there will be two tabs on the rear folded over the back, pry them up till they are straight, then slightly pry to two side ones up (these are the ears on the part of the solenoid that has the o-ring on it), and the rear of the solenoid will pull off the back.
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30110210.jpg


http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30110243.jpg

Once that is off, you will see the o-ring you need to replace.
(the red/orange one is the new one in this picture)
Replace the oring- then there is a little silver part that goes in the black body of the vacuum plenum, rubber tit end in 1st, then the spring on the back of it, you will see how it sits on the silver peice, then the frame around the solenoid, with the spacer... push this all back onto the plenum, making sure your 4 slots of the spacer are lined up, and when it fits back together, fold all 4 of your tabs back over.


Repeat this on the other solenoids, then re-install everything in the reverso order or removal... and fire it up.


Did mine today, took an hour, maybe 1.5 hrs. Working GREAT. Pretty cheap fix too.


Hope it helps.

[fastblackmerc]

Did you use some silicone dilectric grease on the new o-rings? Will make them last longer.

No need to remove the guts of the solenoid, just pull out the shaft.... Have never found anything wrong except the o-rings in the 100+ I've done.

[Black_Noise]

Did you use some silicone dilectric grease on the new o-rings? Will make them last longer.

No need to remove the guts of the solenoid, just pull out the shaft.... Have never found anything wrong except the o-rings in the 100+ I've done.

well...thats one way to do it.... lol, I didnt know if it needed to or not so I just disasembled it all.

[airjordan2k8]

Wondering what's the deal with mine blows cold then when car warms up it gets cool, if I put the temperature hot it doesn't get hot stays cool. Any thoughts? thanks

[Black_Noise]

blend door stuck?

[fastblackmerc]

Wondering what's the deal with mine blows cold then when car warms up it gets cool, if I put the temperature hot it doesn't get hot stays cool. Any thoughts? thanks

Sounds like the blend door. Run the EATC self-test to see if there are any codes. Sometimes running the test 3 - 5 times fixes the problem.

[airjordan2k8]

Sounds like the blend door. Run the EATC self-test to see if there are any codes. Sometimes running the test 3 - 5 times fixes the problem.

FBM, how do you run the test??

[fastblackmerc]

A google.com search returns this as the first hit:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58956

I searched for: "marauder eatc test"

[airjordan2k8]

A google.com search returns this as the first hit:

[url]http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58956[/url ]

I searched for: "marauder eatc test"

So I ran the test and gave me code 024. I know its the blend door, I just replaced the bda. Any thoughts??? :confused:

[fastblackmerc]

So I ran the test and gave me code 024. I know its the blend door, I just replaced the bda. Any thoughts??? :confused:

Bad connection at the blend door motor & check fuse #23 (15 amp).

Shop manual says, Blend door short or failure. go to pin point test "A".

[airjordan2k8]

Bad connection at the blend door motor & check fuse #23 (15 amp).

Shop manual says, Blend door short or failure. go to pin point test "A".

Fuse seems fine should I take it apart again?? Mechanic said it was the plenom but idk that's why I came back here with more questions.

[jb513]

This is a great post! Thank you Black Noise but , I just spent $100 bucks on EBay for a remaned one before I saw this. SHHIITT!! Guess I'll fix my old one and try to sell it to get my money back...

[jwibbity]

thanks took me about 5 hours, had to find a store that sold the right size o rings but finally got em

[Carolina Rauder]

I just did my second EATC repair. The first repair I replaced the the OEM o-rings with regular rubber o-rings. This time I ordered some silicone o-rings. So put my EATC back in turn on and the same problem persists. Air STILL Blowing out of DEFROST VENT ONLY.... I then performed an EATC Self Test, and I got 888 with all displays. Which I read to be No Codes... So someone please tell me what else can be WRONG?????

[fastblackmerc]

thanks took me about 5 hours, had to find a store that sold the right size o rings but finally got em

But were they silicone o-rings?

[fastblackmerc]

I just did my second EATC repair. The first repair I replaced the the OEM o-rings with regular rubber o-rings. This time I ordered some silicone o-rings. So put my EATC back in turn on and the same problem persists. Air STILL Blowing out of DEFROST VENT ONLY.... I then performed an EATC Self Test, and I got 888 with all displays. Which I read to be No Codes... So someone please tell me what else can be WRONG?????

Sounds like there is still a vacuum leak. Recheck the EATC, the red connector inside the EATC, the external vacuum hoses, etc. You could also have a cracked valve body in the EATC.

[1stMerc]

For anyone interested. I got the o-rings from here.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-Silicone-o-rings/Categories

$1.70 pack of fifty. 2.50 shipped arrived in 3 days.

[racorcey]

Sounds like there is still a vacuum leak. Recheck the EATC, the red connector inside the EATC, the external vacuum hoses, etc. You could also have a cracked valve body in the EATC.

Jim - if you remember from last summer (2011), that was my problem - a cracked valve body. Since then, I found 3 more people locally with that specific problem - and one of those was a "rebuilt" unit. I don't think that most of these so-called rebuilders really knows or tests for this condition.

Anyway, after doing the o-rings, the rest of the test for vacuum leakage is easy - the vacuum tank on the left fender well drains down very rapidly. Of course, that could still be the hoses etc., but that's still easy to test - just time consuming. Remember - I went through all this stuff earlier, never even thinking that the valve body could be cracked.

Now that I've read quite a few posts where the 0-rings haven't helped, I'm inclined to believe the cracked valve body is to blame.

[RF Overlord]

For future reference, if the issue is that the air flow goes from vent to defrost under acceleration or when going up an incline, then returns to vent when you let off the gas, it's probably o-rings.

If it comes out the defrost ONLY, then don't even bother doing the o-rings...that's not your problem.

[racorcey]

For future reference, if the issue is that the air flow goes from vent to defrost under acceleration or when going up an incline, then returns to vent when you let off the gas, it's probably o-rings.

If it comes out the defrost ONLY, then don't even bother doing the o-rings...that's not your problem.

I think that's a capital summary!

[fastblackmerc]

For future reference, if the issue is that the air flow goes from vent to defrost under acceleration or when going up an incline, then returns to vent when you let off the gas, it's probably o-rings.

If it comes out the defrost ONLY, then don't even bother doing the o-rings...that's not your problem.

Not entirely true... I've re o-ringed many EATCs where it only blew out the defrost vents....under accelerated or at idle.

[Vortech347]

I need to try mine again. I did this but it didn't fix anything.

[03mmmonroe]

Sounds like there is still a vacuum leak. Recheck the EATC, the red connector inside the EATC, the external vacuum hoses, etc. You could also have a cracked valve body in the EATC.

I had the same concern and I found that the supply line under the wiper cowl was chaffed and that was why it came out of the Defrost only.

[RF Overlord]

Not entirely true... I've re o-ringed many EATCs where it only blew out the defrost vents....under accelerated or at idle.I bow to the master... :bows:

I suppose if one or more of the o-rings were bad enough, all the vacuum would leak past and the unit would be stuck on defrost.

[Black_Noise]

For future reference, if the issue is that the air flow goes from vent to defrost under acceleration or when going up an incline, then returns to vent when you let off the gas, it's probably o-rings.

If it comes out the defrost ONLY, then don't even bother doing the o-rings...that's not your problem.


Mine was coming out only the vents right before I did the o-rings... but it started out chaning on its own under moderate acceleration

[MyBlackBeasts]

For anyone interested. I got the o-rings from here.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-Silicone-o-rings/Categories

$1.70 pack of fifty. 2.50 shipped arrived in 3 days.

I readily recommend this vendor. My 1st order got lost in mail and they replaced it and refunded my original payment. The replacement shipment arrived yesterdy. 50 o-rings for $0.00 :beer:

[bigmerc'03]

is there anyone here in Georgia who knows how to do this?

[fastblackmerc]

is there anyone here in Georgia who knows how to do this?

If there is no one local, send it to me.

[Granddaddy Marq]

I know how to do it, I just don't have te stuff to do it with. And I'll be in Chattanooga this Saturday.

[RF Overlord]

heh...oringsandmore.com Sounds like of of those direct-marketing ads on late night TV:

"But wait! We'll double your order to 10,000 o-rings absolutely free! Just pay separate shipping and processing...






...of $29.95"

[Windsor58]

I did my o-rings a while back. Air was just coming out of the defroster vent all the time. I did find at least one bad o-ring. But when I put it back together, it still has the same problem. I went digging today and I think what I did was pulled the vacuum lines a little too hard when I was pulling the EATC out of the dash and I pulled loose something that looks like a plug with the vacuum lines going through it, with some foam around the outside of the plug as if it is supposed to be plugged into a hole. But I can't reach where it came from. I also can't even see because I can't bend my back enough. Been looking through the forums but can't find a picture of what I am talking about... I may have to go pay the dealer more money, again...

[fastblackmerc]

I did my o-rings a while back. Air was just coming out of the defroster vent all the time. I did find at least one bad o-ring. But when I put it back together, it still has the same problem. I went digging today and I think what I did was pulled the vacuum lines a little too hard when I was pulling the EATC out of the dash and I pulled loose something that looks like a plug with the vacuum lines going through it, with some foam around the outside of the plug as if it is supposed to be plugged into a hole. But I can't reach where it came from. I also can't even see because I can't bend my back enough. Been looking through the forums but can't find a picture of what I am talking about... I may have to go pay the dealer more money, again...

Re-check the the red connector inside the EATC. Make sure it's on the right way. Very easy to plug it in wrong or 1 pin off. The connector you are talking about is located to the left of the glove box. It's been my experience that it's very hard to disconnect unless you went "gorilla" on it when removing the EATC. You can take out the glove box to check that it is still connected. Did you take the solenoids apart or just pull the shaft out? If you took them apart you may have reinstalled the plunger(s) the wrong way. Or you may have a vacuum leak elsewhere under the dash or in the engine compartment.

[Windsor58]

Re-check the the red connector inside the EATC. Make sure it's on the right way. Very easy to plug it in wrong or 1 pin off. The connector you are talking about is located to the left of the glove box. It's been my experience that it's very hard to disconnect unless you went "gorilla" on it when removing the EATC. You can take out the glove box to check that it is still connected. Did you take the solenoids apart or just pull the shaft out? If you took them apart you may have reinstalled the plunger(s) the wrong way. Or you may have a vacuum leak elsewhere under the dash or in the engine compartment.

Thanks, FastBlackMerc. I will pull it and check that red connector. As for the solenoids, I was very careful to make sure I got them back together exactly like they came apart. And I only did one at a time. As for gorilla, I might have gone at least monkey on it...
If the conector isn't it, I will pull the glove box. I ran across a description of how to get it out while trying to find a picture of the "plug" I was worried about. That should address it one way or another. Thanks again.

[71cyclone]

This is a great post! Thank you Black Noise but , I just spent $100 bucks on EBay for a remaned one before I saw this. SHHIITT!! Guess I'll fix my old one and try to sell it to get my money back...
I think the dealer wasnt Crazy loot for this part, near 500 dolla:shake:
This fix is great/ I did mine with NaPa O rings [couldnt locate the orange ones]

[NavySeabee]

For anyone interested. I got the o-rings from here.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-Silicone-o-rings/Categories

$1.70 pack of fifty. 2.50 shipped arrived in 3 days.


Do you have a size and/or part number? Thx

[RF Overlord]

The size is -007.

[tallpaul]

Bad connection at the blend door motor & check fuse #23 (15 amp).

Shop manual says, Blend door short or failure. go to pin point test "A".

Where is this pin point test A?

[tallpaul]

Never mind I found it.

[burt ragio]

A big thanks to Blck Noise on your write up. I just replaced the four O rings per your directions. Two hard as a rock. After many agoneizing hours in the car windows up then down heat on then off just all because of those little FN O rings.

[NavySeabee]

The size is -007.

Are these the correct ones? Just making sure before I rip the EATC apart. I noticed you have a minus sign(-) in front of the 007.

http://www.oringsandmore.com/silicone-o-rings-size-007-price-for-100-pcs/

Thanks.

[RF Overlord]

Yes, those are the correct ones.

It's not a minus sign, it's a dash...as in AS568A-007. O-rings are sized in either standard metric (cross sections are in 0.5 millimeter and inside diameters are in 1 millimeter increments) or in standard inch. The inch size is Aerospace Standard 568 published by the Society of Automotive Engineers.

[NavySeabee]

Yes, those are the correct ones.

It's not a minus sign, it's a dash...as in AS568A-007. O-rings are sized in either standard metric (cross sections are in 0.5 millimeter and inside diameters are in 1 millimeter increments) or in standard inch. The inch size is Aerospace Standard 568 published by the Society of Automotive Engineers.

Thanks. The ones I have are tiny. Difficult to tell the size from the photos since mine hasn't been taken apart yet.

[burt ragio]

If your in need of EATC O rings Private Message me your address I will send you some for the job.

[MADRODER]

Another satisfied self repair thanks to this post !!:beer: and if anyone is looking for some o-rings pm me also.

[mustang50lx]

Just plain awesome. And cost was 0 thanks to a member on here.

[ncmm]

This is an excellent thread. Thanks to all who've contributed.

I had the air out of the defrost under acceleration symptom. Ran the EATC self test. No codes, just 888 with everything else lit. Decided to replace o-rings last weekend. Easy to do with all these pics! Used silicone orings and a bit of dielectric grease on them as recommended. All back together and worked fine for about 15 minutes. Then fan went full blast like it was in max mode. Tried lowering speed but it took several up and downs of fan dial to lower speed. A few minutes later same thing. . .rats. Air blows out of correct vents selected, sometimes a few surges before going full blast. I do remember the foam under the tabs was a bit beat up on one. EATC self test still good. Any ideas where to go from here? Thanks!

[fastblackmerc]

This is an excellent thread. Thanks to all who've contributed.

I had the air out of the defrost under acceleration symptom. Ran the EATC self test. No codes, just 888 with everything else lit. Decided to replace o-rings last weekend. Easy to do with all these pics! Used silicone orings and a bit of dielectric grease on them as recommended. All back together and worked fine for about 15 minutes. Then fan went full blast like it was in max mode. Tried lowering speed but it took several up and downs of fan dial to lower speed. A few minutes later same thing. . .rats. Air blows out of correct vents selected, sometimes a few surges before going full blast. I do remember the foam under the tabs was a bit beat up on one. EATC self test still good. Any ideas where to go from here? Thanks!

The foam has nothing to do with the blower speeds.

One of two things could be wrong.

1 - Blower Control Module could be going bad.

2 - The electronics inside the EATC can be going bad.

[linclsc]

Thanks. Glad I looked it up on the site. Saved a lot of money and took no time. Fixed mine before vacation.

[Nutfield]

I replaced the o-rings (silicone o-rings from Grainger), no change, still blowing only through defrost vent under all conditions. Next I blew out the vacuum tubes with compressed air and sealed the vacuum connector to the EATC with dielectric grease. Still no luck. The original o-rings were all still pliable and the filter foam on the solenoids was still good.
Finally bit the bullet and bought a Dorman remanufactured EATC. Now all is good. And I still saved about $600 over going to a dealer due to all of the good info here.
Thanks.

[Rockettman]

What size (or "#") o-ring is required?

[NavySeabee]

What size (or "#") o-ring is required?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ORing-1REC2

[racorcey]

I replaced the o-rings (silicone o-rings from Grainger), no change, still blowing only through defrost vent under all conditions. Next I blew out the vacuum tubes with compressed air and sealed the vacuum connector to the EATC with dielectric grease. Still no luck. The original o-rings were all still pliable and the filter foam on the solenoids was still good.
Finally bit the bullet and bought a Dorman remanufactured EATC. Now all is good. And I still saved about $600 over going to a dealer due to all of the good info here.
Thanks.

You may have been victim to the same problem I had. It is the lesser found of this particular problem. O-rings and other fixes won't help. What I found, after going through all the otherwise great fixes, was that the plastic valve body, on which the solenoids and O-rings sit, was defective. That is, there were hairline cracks along the molding lines. I tried using RTV, but it doesn't adhere well to most plastics, and if the crack is under the solenoid, you are SOL. I found a used control head and basically used the plastic body with my otherwise rebuilt original control head to fix the problem.

I documented this particular problem about 2 summers ago. By then, I found at least several more MM posters with this exact problem.

[Nutfield]

You may have been victim to the same problem I had. It is the lesser found of this particular problem. O-rings and other fixes won't help. What I found, after going through all the otherwise great fixes, was that the plastic valve body, on which the solenoids and O-rings sit, was defective. That is, there were hairline cracks along the molding lines. I tried using RTV, but it doesn't adhere well to most plastics, and if the crack is under the solenoid, you are SOL. I found a used control head and basically used the plastic body with my otherwise rebuilt original control head to fix the problem.

I documented this particular problem about 2 summers ago. By then, I found at least several more MM posters with this exact problem.

Thanks for the info. I will keep this in mind if the problem recurs with the remanufactured EATC. Still, $239 after my core refund isn't too bad. I have been a Ford fan since before I bought a new 5.0 Mustang LX in 1990 (still have it) and this EATC may be the worst design that I have ever seen, and I was dumb enough to buy a '04 Freestar, so that's saying a lot.
Btw, my car is a '08 Crown Vic. MercuryMaurader.net had the best info for this problem. :cool4:

[VMARAUDER]

Anyone know which solenoid controls each function? I replaced the o rings and air does not come through the vent but all others work...floor, defrost and floor/defrosthttp://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x180/black300a/marauder/EATC%20Repair/2012-06-30111238.jpg

[racorcey]

No, but....you could try hooking up a hose to each one and try sucking/blowing through each valve. With no voltage applied to each solenoid, I believe that the valves are in the closed position (although I can be wrong on this). Even so, if it is the reverse, you could apply 12 volts to each individual solenoid and then try the suck/blow test again.

Bottom line - if any of them leak, either the o-ring was not installed correctly, or you might just have a crack in the plastic manifold - just like the problem I had.

You could also check the continuity of each solenoid with an ohm-meter to insure they're all the same.

Otherwise, you may be looking at bad (electronic) controller.

Heck - at least the weather has cooled down somewhat! ;)

[VMARAUDER]

Thanks Randy...continuity check was ok so I will just redo it later

[Billboard]

Another happy owner here, I had defrost only, replaced O-rings now everything is back to normal. The job took less time than I thought.

[Black_Noise]

yey, I made it to sticky thread level. (sorry havnt been on in a while)

[murphypeople]

After 2 years of putting up with air only coming out of the defrost vent I finally attempted this repair job. Worked like a champ!!! parts and supplies were less than $10.00 and took me 2.5 hours to do. My indy mechanic would not do the repair. And the dealership wanted $1,300. $900 just for the part. During my repair I noticed that two of the o-rings were okay and the other two were brittle. Four new silicon o-rings installed with a nice coating of dielectric grease and working great.
Now this post is excellent but for those of you that would appreciate video instruction these two links are a must.
1.) All the details including parts ordering information: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0IWspXkQtE
2.) The minor dashboard work to remove the EATC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2Q0SvvE-gg.
Happy New Year!!!

[gatlandc]

This is an excellent repair blog, well done. I followed the instructions and now have cold air blowing on my face again.

One question I haven't seen asked or answered is do you think this o-ring problem could lead to a lean running condition. I also have diagnostic code 171 and 174 up!

[racorcey]

This is an excellent repair blog, well done. I followed the instructions and now have cold air blowing on my face again.

One question I haven't seen asked or answered is do you think this o-ring problem could lead to a lean running condition. I also have diagnostic code 171 and 174 up!

Good question! But the answer is simple....

For some time, the engineers have designed vacuum take-offs such that, in case of a leak, it won't seriously affect engine performance. It's not impossible to happen, of course, but normally doesn't.

[fastblackmerc]

One question I haven't seen asked or answered is do you think this o-ring problem could lead to a lean running condition. I also have diagnostic code 171 and 174 up!

No, there is such a small loss of vacuum that it doesn't affect the engine. There is also a vacuum reservoir, the flat square box on the left inner fender.

[Reek09]

So if my max a.c. only blows out of the defrost but on regular a.c it does come out of the vents then the o-rings would be my problem also?

[fastblackmerc]

So if my max a.c. only blows out of the defrost but on regular a.c it does come out of the vents then the o-rings would be my problem also?

Very possibly......

[tbore007]

Anybody got some o-rings they can send me?

[NavySeabee]

Anybody got some o-rings they can send me?

Send me a PM with address.

[scolazz]

i just did this repair, after sitting on the o-rings for about 2 years LOL :) I had the typical 'air out of defrost/feet only' problem.

Worked GREAT! thank you so much for the pics. The first 3 I pulled, the rings looked fine, and felt fine, so I was kind of worried, but the last one I pulled the ring looked ok but was brittle. Replaced all 4, and I have a fully working EATC now for about a $5 and 45min investment. Thank you very much for this detailed and awesome post!

EDIT: if anyone needs O-rings, especially local to new england, I have a bag of them, just PM me and I can probably hook you up.

[MENINBLK]

I know that dielectric grease was used on your repairs.
Has anyone used SILICONE OIL ??
It is very light and you only probably need a drop
on each o-ring after installation.

[whitey]

I would assume silicone grease, like plumbers grease would work better by staying in place and not running off the rings. Silicone grease can be bought at home depot or lowes, in the plumbing section.

[tbone]

Mine just went bad again. Replaced the o rings but did not work this time. Worked on the last one I did. I think I used ones that are too big or something else went wrong.

Does anyone have 4 of the synthetic ones they could spare?

[MENINBLK]

Anyone know of a supplier for the Vacuum Valve Body ?

I followed your suggestions and repaired my own EATC.
I did not see anything wrong with the o-rings but I replaced them anyway
and coated them all with dielectric grease.
Now it blows out of all the vents where it is supposed to.

I DID see some hairline cracks in the valve body so I put a coat of Dielectric grease
on the valve body to try and seal the cracks if they were leaking at all.

:2thumbs:

[fastblackmerc]

Anyone know of a supplier for the Vacuum Valve Body ?

I followed your suggestions and repaired my own EATC.
I did not see anything wrong with the o-rings but I replaced them anyway
and coated them all with dielectric grease.
Now it blows out of all the vents where it is supposed to.

I DID see some hairline cracks in the valve body so I put a coat of Dielectric grease
on the valve body to try and seal the cracks if they were leaking at all.

:2thumbs:

If you take a close look at the o-rings you will see that they are square not round as they should be.

Use silicone dielectric grease. Silicone oil will not work.

Since the air is coming out where it needs to the valve body is not cracked. You probably saw the cast marks.

I highly doubt you'll find a valve body anywhere.

To fix a leaking valve body:


Remove the solenoids and wiring from the valve body.
Since you put the silicone grease on it, clean it really really good to get rid of all the silicone grease.
Get some 5 minute epoxy
Mix the epoxy
Fill the void in the top and bottom of the valve body with the epoxy (obviously you need to do one side at a time)
Don't get any epoxy inside the valve body.
Reassemble the solenoids after the epoxy is dry

[MENINBLK]

Can you just use clear nail polish to do the same thing ?

[fastblackmerc]

Can you just use clear nail polish to do the same thing ?

Try it but I doubt it will work.

[racorcey]

Can you just use clear nail polish to do the same thing ?

As Jim as noted above - not a likely solution. You have to remember that the type of plastic used in this valve system is designed to be used "bare." That is, the O-rings used inside the valve make (an otherwise) good seal using the natural surface of the plastics. It is also rigid for support purposes (of the solenoid valves). That rigidity also contributes to its one flaw - that it can hide hair-line fractures during the manufacturing process, which, upon hot and cold cycles, become exposed.

Those same hot/cold cycles also play havoc with the o-ring seals as well.

From all I have seen over the last several years of this problem, here, on this forum, the vast majority of the problem are indeed the O-rings. The rest seem to fall into the cracked valve body problem.

I have examined about 10 of these valve bodies so far, locally, for friends with "the problem." Seven needed o-ring replacement, the rest were valve body cracks. What started this "quest" for me was finding that the O-rings did nothing, and I drove Jim nuts trying to help me. I guess the engineer got the better of me after a while, and it took a bit of doing to hook up vacuum pumps and other accessories to ferret out the cracked valve body.
Worse yet, I found that the valve body could not be repaired using conventional means of gluing, due to the type of plastic used. Double-worse yet, some of the cracks I found in the other valve bodies were not external, but rather internal, meaning no amount of adhesive would matter.

Bottom line - if you have a cracked valve body, your choice is replacement. Ipso facto! :bigcry:

[JoeBoomz]

Good news is these units are relative easy to find in the junk yard. We took apart one last week and the o rings were hard as rock. They literally broke off when we pried at them.

[rauder88]

Thanks NavySeabee for the O-Rings.

[HotRaud90]

Anybody in here got some spare silicone O-rings in the 007 size needed for the repair that they could send my way? I've got the typical problem: air out of defrost vents only.

[NavySeabee]

Anybody in here got some spare silicone O-rings in the 007 size needed for the repair that they could send my way? I've got the typical problem: air out of defrost vents only.

PM your mailing address.

[NavySeabee]

Guys, if you sent me your mailing address for o-rings, I can't find them!! :(

Somewhere in this house is a package with about 70 o-rings. I must have put them away somewhere they'd be safe. It's driving me nuts! Don't know where else to look and my OCD won't let me quit looking!!

Sorry for the delay.

[HotRaud90]

Guys, if you sent me your mailing address for o-rings, I can't find them!! :(

Somewhere in this house is a package with about 70 o-rings. I must have put them away somewhere they'd be safe. It's driving me nuts! Don't know where else to look and my OCD won't let me quit looking!!

Sorry for the delay.

Noted. Update us if you find them! I appreciate the effort and gesture.

[Thenwhat85]

Ingsinve had the out the defroster syndrome for some time. It used to switch automatically. So I thought it was normal. Guess not after reading this thread. My question is, can you use rubber or Viton orings? And if not would anybody like to toss some this way. Thanks

[Thenwhat85]

Never mind on the orings. I got some on the way. I checked my original orings and all seem pliable. Is there a certain way to vacuum check the solinoid (that doesn't look right) case

[Fizzix63]

I want to thank everyone who contributed to this repair. My 2003 Crown Vic LX (136k) had the same problem, (the airflow switching to the defrost vents under low vacuum conditions) and this procedure worked like a charm. The O-rings in my unit were not broken but seemed harder than the newer #007 ones I replaced them with. The whole repair took about an hour and was made even easier thanks to the excellent notes.

If anyone needs some O-rings shoot me a msg and I will send out the remaining ones that I have.

[CorsairMan]

Too all those that have contributed to this solution, You are AWESOME! I can finally get the A/C out of the panel instead of the defrost. And for less than $15 bucks vs. the $900 I was quoted. Thank you so much.

[airjordan2k8]

I'm gonna need to do this mine started do this defrost blowing for a few mins then vents.. hate it.. but I can't seem to find the orings at autozone or oreilys.. online order I guess

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[airjordan2k8]

Thanks to this thread!!👍👍

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[jay87lx]

Good news is these units are relative easy to find in the junk yard. We took apart one last week and the o rings were hard as rock. They literally broke off when we pried at them.
I am always at the junk yard, any particular years to look for or are they all the same?

[CorsairMan]

I'm gonna need to do this mine started do this defrost blowing for a few mins then vents.. hate it.. but I can't seem to find the orings at autozone or oreilys.. online order I guess

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If you PM me your address and I send you some. I found them at McMaster-Carr.

[airjordan2k8]

If you PM me your address and I send you some. I found them at McMaster-Carr.
You have a pm..[emoji482]

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[svtguy]

Thanks to all the guys who shared their knowledge about the EATC O-ring fix. You're postings of How-To's, pics and part n's really saved me a lot of cash and maybe my marriage too. A shop quoted me over $500 to replace the EATC. And the wife hasn't been happy since the AC stopped coming out of the vents. So its a win win all around. I was able to drive over to McMaster Carr since its local to me, get the O-rings and swap out in just a couple hours. Worked like a charm. Thanks again! Peace...

[Canadasvt]

Mine only comes out through the dash vents. No defrost or floor. A/C and heat work fine but only through vents. Anyone else ever have this? O rings ?

[Ambitious1]

Mine only comes out through the dash vents. No defrost or floor. A/C and heat work fine but only through vents. Anyone else ever have this? O rings ?

Contact fastblackmerc. He can help you:

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=99619

[Canadasvt]

***_***_****

[fastblackmerc]

Thank you Ambitious for the direction.
Thank you to fastblackmerc for ALL the help.

You'll also want to put a small amount of silicone dielectric grease on the o-rings before you install the plunger. Will help in the long run.

[04allstock]

I hope this is the right place for this. Sorry if this was already covered somewhere.

I replaced EATC o-rings, and now I have new symptoms.

BEFORE o-ring replacement, I had no fan speed control and no vent selection control (hi-speed defrost only). But I was able to control the temperature.

AFTER o-ring replacement, I fully regained vent selection control. But TWO things happened.
1. The fan speed is touchy. I have some control (a lot more than before o-rings), but it still seems a bit erratic.
2. I immediately lost control of temperature control. After plugging the unit back in and testing the vent selection, I tried to change the temp and I immediately heard the blend door motor clicking, then it stopped and all temp control was lost. I reset the code and it happened again. Freon and compressor are good.

So the obvious question: what's going on here? The timing of the o-ring replacement and the new symptoms seems suspect. Why would fixing the vacuum issue within the EATC cause new problems in the blend door motor and potentially the blower motor?

[fastblackmerc]

I hope this is the right place for this. Sorry if this was already covered somewhere.

I replaced EATC o-rings, and now I have new symptoms.

BEFORE o-ring replacement, I had no fan speed control and no vent selection control (hi-speed defrost only). But I was able to control the temperature.

AFTER o-ring replacement, I fully regained vent selection control. But TWO things happened.
1. The fan speed is touchy. I have some control (a lot more than before o-rings), but it still seems a bit erratic.
2. I immediately lost control of temperature control. After plugging the unit back in and testing the vent selection, I tried to change the temp and I immediately heard the blend door motor clicking, then it stopped and all temp control was lost. I reset the code and it happened again. Freon and compressor are good.

So the obvious question: what's going on here? The timing of the o-ring replacement and the new symptoms seems suspect. Why would fixing the vacuum issue within the EATC cause new problems in the blend door motor and potentially the blower motor?

Are the internal connectors (plugs) on the pins in the right orientation?

Are the two electrical connectors on the back of the EATC inserted fully?

Did you kink or disconnect the vacuum hoses?

Did you complete disassemble the solenoids to do the repair and reassembled them wrong?

Did you check the vacuum manifold for leaks?

Did you run the EATC self-test?

[Lowndex]

Original pictures not available.

[fastblackmerc]

Original pictures not available.

Pictures!

We don't need no stinkin' pictures!

[04allstock]

Are the internal connectors (plugs) on the pins in the right orientation?

Are the two electrical connectors on the back of the EATC inserted fully?

Did you kink or disconnect the vacuum hoses?

Did you complete disassemble the solenoids to do the repair and reassembled them wrong?

Did you check the vacuum manifold for leaks?

Did you run the EATC self-test?

yes
yes
no
maybe
no
yes

When the vacuum hoses are disconnected from the back of the unit, I was getting suction only on the black hose. I assume that's normal?

[fastblackmerc]

yes
yes
no
maybe
no
yes

When the vacuum hoses are disconnected from the back of the unit, I was getting suction only on the black hose. I assume that's normal?

Vacuum on the black (source) hose only.

Maybe? - Did you take out the spring and the plunger?

[04allstock]

Vacuum on the black (source) hose only.

Maybe? - Did you take out the spring and the plunger?

Yes, I removed the spring and plunger on all four, and replaced the o-ring with a red silicone o-ring with dielectric grease. Maybe was in reference to if I put it all back together correctly, though I'm pretty sure I did.

[fastblackmerc]

Yes, I removed the spring and plunger on all four, and replaced the o-ring with a red silicone o-ring with dielectric grease. Maybe was in reference to if I put it all back together correctly, though I'm pretty sure I did.

Very easy to put the plunger in upside down.

[04allstock]

Very easy to put the plunger in upside down.

Good to know. Would an upside down plunger cause blend door issues like the one I described? What is the best way to know the plungers and everything are in correctly? Is there a diagram somewhere?

[RF Overlord]

The blend door is electrically-operated and should not be affected by anything vacuum-related. If it was working properly before you opened the unit, I'd say you have a wiring/connector issue.

[04allstock]

Okay. I replaced the blend door motor and have regained control of the temperature. I hate to chalk it up to coincidence that the blend door motor just happened to go bad the second I replaced the o-rings in the EATC, but whatever. Fan speed is still touchy. I have control from mid-high fan speed, but no low setting. I guess I need to set my sights on the blower motor now? How in the hell do all these things go bad at once? was it the solar eclipse?? ;)

Do I need to be looking at the blower motor? Or the BCM? Fan blows hard but there is touchy control of the fan speed, with almost no low setting.

[RF Overlord]

Blower motor is way easier to replace than the BMSC, but unless you can beg/borrow/steal a spare of each, it's difficult to know which is bad. Since the BMSC outputs a PWM signal, it's not as simple as putting a voltmeter on it...it's also possible the fan speed control in the EATC head unit is bad.

[12odee]

My face is now enjoying getting blasted by the hot/cold air of my choosing.

[B4Real]

Thank you sooooo much ! I was told by a local garage 2 years ago it was the actuator door. They were going to charge me nearly 500.00. I followed your suggestions and my cousin and I was able to fix the problem by changing out the 4 o rings. It didn’t matter Orelieys sells them for a dollar a piece. I was glad to pay it! Thanks again!


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[sspmustang]

I realize this topic is nearly 10 years old, but I also recently ran into the situation where the air was only blowing cold thru the defrost and decided to try the O-ring fix. The parts themselves were a whopping $2.34 from Grainger for a bag of 100 red silicone ones.

Oddly enough, simply replacing the O-rings did not actually address the problem. It took running the self diagnostic test after re-installing the EATC and viola!, air started blowing nice and cold thru the vents.

Thanks to everyone who offered their assistance in this thread. It would be nice if all of the Marauder fixes were as cheap and easy, and if anyone needs some, please PM me, I think I now have a lifetime supply. :D