This is how you take a wheel off...

[Fosters]

. .

[MOTOWN]

I take it you dont drive it often? LOL

[Fosters]

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[fastblackmerc]

Lucky you didn't pull the Marauder off the jack. :eek:

The easiest way is to loosen the rear lugs about 1/8 a turn. Do a short burn out. Will break the wheel free every time. Put a small amount of anti seize on the rotor surface where the wheel contacts the rotor. Clean the rust off the wheel first.

[Fosters]

. .

[screamn]

Put a small amount of anti seize on the rotor surface where the wheel contacts the rotor. Clean the rust off the wheel first.

Big plus 1 on this ^^^^^^

I've done this and it helps tremendously when removing all the tires the next time around for whatever reason.

[TFB]

If the car has been stored inside I wouldn't be worried in the least about the tires, find someone else to patch it(or shove a plug in it)...

A week ago I pulled the original tires off my '98 Grand Marquis at almost 55K mi, sidewalls looked better and still had more tread than my '07 that got new tires at 51K mi... I'd have probably run them another 4-5K mi but didn't want to be needing tires in the middle of the winter...

[Joe Walsh]

If the car has been stored inside I wouldn't be worried in the least about the tires, find someone else to patch it(or shove a plug in it)...

A week ago I pulled the original tires off my '98 Grand Marquis at almost 55K mi, sidewalls looked better and still had more tread than my '07 that got new tires at 51K mi... I'd have probably run them another 4-5K mi but didn't want to be needing tires in the middle of the winter...

I have to agree....

The primary causes for tires aging, cracking, and degrading are:
UV sunlight, ozone and heat.
If tires are stored in a cool, dry environment away from any electric motors (*which generate ozone as they run) they will remain in good condition for a long time.
Now, having said that....I would drive a high performance car on 30 year old tires!

* Ozone gas attacks any polymer possessing olefinic or double bonds within its chain structure, such as natural rubber, nitrile rubber, and styrene-butadiene rubber. Products made using these polymers are especially susceptible to attack, which causes cracks to grow longer and deeper with time, the rate of crack growth depending on the load carried by the product and the concentration of ozone in the atmosphere. Such materials can be protected by adding antiozonants, such as waxes, which bond to the surface to create a protective film or blend with the material and provide long term protection. Ozone cracking used to be a serious problem in car tires for example, but the problem is now seen only in very old tires. On the other hand, many critical products like gaskets and O-rings may be attacked by ozone produced within compressed air systems. Fuel lines are often made from reinforced rubber tubing and may also be susceptible to attack, especially within engine compartments where low levels of ozone are produced from electrical equipment. Storing rubber products in close proximity to DC electric motors can accelerate the rate at which ozone cracking occurs. The commutator of the motor creates sparks which in turn produce ozone.

[ncmm]

Lucky you didn't pull the Marauder off the jack. :eek:

The easiest way is to loosen the rear lugs about 1/8 a turn. Do a short burn out. Will break the wheel free every time. Put a small amount of anti seize on the rotor surface where the wheel contacts the rotor. Clean the rust off the wheel first.

zachary +1