P0320

[RF Overlord]

Anyone ever have this code?

I'm going to look at the crank position sensor and wiring this weekend, but I just wondered if anyone else had the issue and fixed it.

[Embassy]

Bump.

My MM threw the same code today.

For a while now, the negative battery terminal was not grounding properly (clamping tightly) because it was worn out from me tightening it and untightening it to disconnect the battery when the MM is stored.

However, I checked the voltage on the battery on the terminals and on the wiring, and it is 12.45 volts.

Therefore, it would appear the ground is tight enough.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

[babbage]

Can't you disconnect, remove clean and reinstall, reconnect? Easy and worth a try.

[Embassy]

Can't you disconnect, remove clean and reinstall, reconnect? Easy and worth a try.


I did try that on the negative terminal. Granted my battery and terminal is really clean.

However it did not do the trick.

I am trying to think of anyting else before I start looking at the crank postion sensor,etc.

I will check the voltage on the alt but it should be fine. It's a 3 year old BA Performance 200 amp unit.

[Zack]

The entire crank sensor run of wiring is housed is shielding all the way back to the pcm.
I would check grounds and the connector for any dirt.
That area where the crank sensor is can get nasty. Plus its not an easy connector to get off, a lot of people (im guilty too) pull it by the wiring and not the actual plastic connector.

[babbage]

Can't you disconnect, remove clean and reinstall, reconnect? Easy and worth a try.


no I meant the actual crank pos sensor. remove, clean, reinstall. use some WD and perhaps a propanne torch to heat Around the sensor on front cover to aid removal.

[Embassy]

Thanks. I'll check it.

Trying to find a diagram of its location. Is it on the front timing cover, left (passenger) of the balancer?

[Zack]

The AC compressor needs to be unbolted to allow the CPS to be removed.

[Embassy]

Good grief.

I did use a multimeter to check the batter. Voltage is around 12.37 when cranked. Think the battery might be on its way out?

Also, it will not actually "crank" as in try to start.

[Drewstang]

Battery should be above 12v, more around 14v so its a little low. Do you have a trickle charger hooked up to the battery while in storage?

[EMAS]

A fully charged battery has an open circuit voltage of 12.77v. Note it is rare to have a fully charged battery, 12.6 is an acceptable open circuit voltage. When cranking the engine the battery voltage should be above 9.5v.

[babbage]

Good grief.

I did use a multimeter to check the batter. Voltage is around 12.37 when cranked. Think the battery might be on its way out?

Also, it will not actually "crank" as in try to start.


Its the cold that killed batt most likely. hook up your charger put it on start mode, then see if it spins.

[Embassy]

First, thank you to everyone who contributed.

This forum always provides prompt help.

I ended up jumping the Marauder and it started right up. Checked the voltage with a multimeter on the battery while running and it was over 14v so I am not sure it is a grounding problem with the negative terminal clamp worn out or something else. :confused:

Or do you think it could still be the crank position sensor?

[Drewstang]

What happens when you clear the code? Does it immediately come back or does it take a while?

[Embassy]

Good question.

I'll clear the code tomorow and start the car and post my findings.

Thanks.

[RF Overlord]

FWIW, since I was the OP, it turned out to be a phantom code. The original problem was an intermittent "sneeze" or "cough" when accelerating, that was accompanied by this code. Replacing the the CKP did nothing. The cure was to replace the Autolite spark plugs with NGKs. Been fine ever since.

[L.Mark]

The entire crank sensor run of wiring is housed is shielding all the way back to the pcm.
I would check grounds and the connector for any dirt.
That area where the crank sensor is can get nasty. Plus its not an easy connector to get off, a lot of people (im guilty too) pull it by the wiring and not the actual plastic connector.


Riiiight....dirt on Steve's car...:rolleyes:

[Richy04]

beside the negative terminal, the only two places with a ground are right by the battery (the black box has a ground to the pass side of the motor which goes bad, the other is located by the back of the motor to the firewall.) check those but if both were bad, the car wouldn't crank without them.

[Embassy]

Update.

No codes when I tried to fire it up.

Tightened the negative terminal and she fired up.

Therefore, I think the clamp is worn out from years of tightening and loosening.

I think that's my problem.

[Drewstang]

Not many options if you want to stay with an OEM clamp. I think they are crimped or soldered onto the wire.

[Embassy]

Not many options if you want to stay with an OEM clamp. I think they are crimped or soldered onto the wire.

True. Unsure what I'll do as they are soldered onto that connector.

[babbage]

wrap neg term with thin copper wire. or use a small rounded copper shim to make it tight. I still think its your battery, perhaps have it load tested

[Embassy]

wrap neg term with thin copper wire. or use a small rounded copper shim to make it tight. I still think its your battery, perhaps have it load tested


Good idea and I will have it load-tested.

Thank you.

[vegasmarauder]

The 03-04 Grand Marquis battery cable harness set is exactly the same as the MM with the exception of the plastic tabs that hold the cable along the bottom of the right cam cover and a 3" plastic post that holds the cable off the cross over tube. I just use the Ford cable assembly and carefully switch the MM plastic tabs over to the new one. Have done this 5 times already on MM's. I think I posted the part numbers and pics of the differences somewhere on here in the past and in the photo albums. The MM part number has been discontinued, but the wire length and size and connectors on the MGM harness is exactly the same as the MM.

[Embassy]

Update:

It appears to be the starter.

No codes were thrown but it would not start, even after jumping it.

Tapped the starter with a hammer and she fired up.

Having the starter replaced. However, now the starter is not getting any juice.

Any idea why?

[Embassy]

Turns out the it was the starter and the starter relay.

[Drewstang]

Cutting it close aren't you, lol?

[Embassy]

I'm here and judging by the line to get in, my daughter will finish college first.

[babbage]

I'm here and judging by the line to get in, my daughter will finish college first.


lol - glad you got it sorted out!