Stock crank Forged Rods & Pistons

[03marauderhype]

I have plans to rebuild my engine over the winter before the Eaton swap but not sure about a few things.

1. Stock crank max horsepower? Should I buy forged?

2. Forged rods and pistons? Brand?

3. Ported Eaton or Whipple (Used but nice condition).

Looking for 500 RWHP so, I just want to play it safe and not over kill with expensive parts.

[ctrlraven]

Better off finding a Ford 03-04 cobra shortblock, would be cheaper and it's ready for boost.

[Billy]

I have never ever ever heard of a crank being the weak point in any build, whether it be cast or forged.
And Manley is probably the most trusted choice for rods and pistons.

[03marauderhype]

What is the cost for a cobra short block? Cobra has a 8 bolt crank vs our 6 bolt crank from my understanding. What will I need to change besides a flywheel?

[LANDY]

A 03-04 cobra shortblock can be found for just a little over $1k. Change flexplate slap your heads and timing chains on and your good.

[Vortech347]

The cast crank is good for around 600ish. After that you should go forged. You can usually find a 96-04 cobra crank for prerty cheap. The important thing is to have an engine builder who knows modulars. A ported eaton through an auto will get you around 490-520 with the right pulley combo. Whipples kick ass though. No boost drop after 6000 like most ported eatons.

[SpartaPerformance]

Stock cranks are good for 550HP easy

[SC Cheesehead]

As as been posted by others, crank and block aren't your weak link. If you're target's 500+ rwhp, go with forged rods and pistons.

Got to agree that the Whipple kicks butt, but for the money, it's hard to beat an Eaton. Keep in mind, you can always upgrade later.

[na svt]

Better off finding a Ford 03-04 cobra shortblock, would be cheaper and it's ready for boost.

Most of them are already beat down, he's better off building the aluminum block anyway. The Cobra shortblocks are also 8.5:1 compression and that flat kills hp and tq.

[03marauderhype]

Can you recommend a company to call for a quote on rods & pistons?

[na svt]

MMR, DSS, modmax, summit, jegs, JDM.

Do not go with a compression level less than 9.5:1.

[ctrlraven]

Most of them are already beat down, he's better off building the aluminum block anyway. The Cobra shortblocks are also 8.5:1 compression and that flat kills hp and tq.
I know they are 8.5 CR but he is looking to go s/c also.

[na svt]

I know they are 8.5 CR but he is looking to go s/c also.

8.5:1 is too low, it gives up too much in efficiency and power. It's okay for huge boost levels but not a street driven marauder.

Low compression was necessary back in the day but not in today's engines.

[ctrlraven]

8.5:1 is too low, it gives up too much in efficiency and power. It's okay for huge boost levels but not a street driven marauder.

Low compression was necessary back in the day but not in today's engines.
I agree with you, I figured since the OP mentioned a Whipple I wouldn't think they would daily the car. An eaton swap one I could see being a daily.

[Spectragod]

If your going to build a stroker motor, you need to buy a crank anyhow, it's not that much more to go forged as opposed to cast. Just plan on 20k for a motor, when it comes in under budget, you"ll be even happier.

[ctrlraven]

If your going to build a stroker motor, you need to buy a crank anyhow, it's not that much more to go forged as opposed to cast. Just plan on 20k for a motor, when it comes in under budget, you"ll be even happier.
20K? wowzers

I've already spent about 4K for parts and shipping. Got another 2k of stuff to get (valvetrain and a few other etc engine things) then the rest will be for labor and gaskets/bolts for the actual build. So in the end of things, maybe 8-9k for my frpp 5.0 big bore, all forged internals, fresh heads, etc etc.

[03marauderhype]

I plan to drive my Marauder on the street with occasional trips to the track. What about 9.0:1 compression?

[MMBLUE]

I plan to drive my Marauder on the street with occasional trips to the track. What about 9.0:1 compression?

Do yourself a favor, go to the MMR site and get yourself an MMR 600 9.0:1 Short block and be done with it. put your stock stuff back on, heads done over of course, and call it a day for under 5K for the motor. Get an eaton swap or TS whipple conversion and whammo.

I'm running this exact set up with a hair dryer and couldn't be more happy. :beer:

[na svt]

Do yourself a favor, go to the MMR site and get yourself an MMR 600 9.0:1 Short block and be done with it. put your stock stuff back on, heads done over of course, and call it a day for under 5K for the motor. Get an eaton swap or TS whipple conversion and whammo.

I'm running this exact set up with a hair dryer and couldn't be more happy.
There are much better options than MMR. They're a puppy factory for engines, turning out at least two a day to keep up with demand. I've watched them at work and in no way would I buy an assembled engine from them.

Their balanced assemblies are not balanced, they are taken out of the boxes and installed. It's assumed that all parts are within weight tolerances. I watched the builder the ring gaps for all 8 sets of rings in one single cylinder rather than the cylinders in which they were to be installed. Also, at no time was a torque wrench used on the rods or mains.

They wanted me to promote their products and had planned to do so until I saw them in action.

[MMBLUE]

There are much better options than MMR. They're a puppy factory for engines, turning out at least two a day to keep up with demand. I've watched them at work and in no way would I buy an assembled engine from them.

Their balanced assemblies are not balanced, they are taken out of the boxes and installed. It's assumed that all parts are within weight tolerances. I watched the builder the ring gaps for all 8 sets of rings in one single cylinder rather than the cylinders in which they were to be installed. Also, at no time was a torque wrench used on the rods or mains.

They wanted me to promote their products and had planned to do so until I saw them in action.

So I guess the balance sheet that came with my engine is a phoney???? Not looking for a fight but, the reason I chimed in to this thread is because the OP has the same objectives as I, being; a daily driver and every now and then go to the track for some spirited runs. A MMR 600 is more than sufficient for that and comes with a 1 year warrantee and is a decent price. If he wants to spend 10K for a motor to do it? More power to him.

[na svt]

So I guess the balance sheet that came with my engine is a phoney????
I would bet that they put the numbers listed on the pistons and rod boxes on the balance sheet as well as the bob weights from the crank. Like I said, I saw them remove the rotating assembly pieces from their boxes, unwrapped them and put them in the engine.


Not looking for a fight but, the reason I chimed in to this thread is because the OP has the same objectives as I, being; a daily driver and every now and then go to the track for some spirited runs. A MMR 600 is more than sufficient for that and comes with a 1 year warrantee and is a decent price. If he wants to spend 10K for a motor to do it? More power to him.

I'm stating facts, not arguing. I would buy a rotating assembly from MMR but not an assembled engine. I've seen a few of them torn down after failure and was not impressed. As for spending $10k, there are many affordable options other than MMR.

Stroker kit $2k from MMR
Fresh heads $500
gaskets/bolts $300
oil pump $250
Bearings $100
machine work $600

[MMBLUE]

I would bet that they put the numbers listed on the pistons and rod boxes on the balance sheet as well as the bob weights from the crank. Like I said, I saw them remove the rotating assembly pieces from their boxes, unwrapped them and put them in the engine.



I'm stating facts, not arguing. I would buy a rotating assembly from MMR but not an assembled engine. I've seen a few of them torn down after failure and was not impressed. As for spending $10k, there are many affordable options other than MMR.

Stroker kit $2k from MMR
Fresh heads $500
gaskets/bolts $300
oil pump $250
Bearings $100
machine work $600

Agreed.... My lower rotating assembly was sent out to another bussiness balanced and sent back to MMR.

There are many options out there. To all , be savy, be skeptical, check and recheck then, make an informed decision. :beer:

[na svt]

Agreed.... My lower rotating assembly was sent out to another bussiness balanced and sent back to MMR.

There are many options out there. To all , be savy, be skeptical, check and recheck then, make an informed decision. :beer:
MMR sells there rotating assemblies as balanced whereas everyone else charges an extra $200. MMRs rotating assembly would be a great deal if it was in fact balanced.

[Vortech347]

Good info NA.

Sometimes specialty shops get to big for their own good. Then a few "failures" here and there don't even eat into their margin much so they focus on quantity over quality.

[sailsmen]

Part Name and
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2R3Z-6006-AARM




Engine Complete Assembly http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2003&m=Ford&mo=Mustang#Search

4.6 Dual Over Head Cam EFI S/C Cobra ; Remanufactured, Gaskets And Additional Parts Must Be Purchased Separately, Includes Oil Pan, Valve Covers, Front Cover & Water Pump
$5,199.19
Select a dealer for prices & availability

3 Year Warranty?



:flamer: