sputtering between gears

[kingace]

My mm started sputtering between gears for a week or so and could not figure out why:(. I took it in the other day for a tune up and two ignition coils hoping this would fix it, i had a few mis fires hence the coils. After a fresh tank of high octane she still is sputtering when i accelerate into 2nd and sometimes 3rd when in traffic. Also she's running rough at idle, Any thoughts on what it could be?.. any feedback would be great!

[lifespeed]

I'm not normally one for the shotgun approach, but given the poor quality of the original coils, I would replace them all. Spark plugs too. It is not worth trying to nail down which ones are failing, intermittent or otherwise.

The original coil design is a weak link.

[kingace]

Sounds good i will try that, and hopefully she will be top notch again!

[martyo]

Check for codes.

[kingace]

The code said miss fire in cylinder 4 took it to the shop they suggested i get 2 so i did with a major tune up. Its not stalling out anymore but sputters and idle runs rough. Hopefully after i change the rest of the coils, this will do the trick.

[martyo]

Is code still present?

[kingace]

Not quite sure..engine light isn't on anymore. Would that matter?

[whitey]

The oem coils are good quality.

[martyo]

Not quite sure..engine light isn't on anymore. Would that matter?

Could be stored codes.

[kingace]

Looks like ill have to invest in a OBD

[fastblackmerc]

Looks like ill have to invest in a OBD

In the mean time just take it to any FLAPS, they should be able to read the codes for you.

[martyo]

In the mean time just take it to any FLAPS, they should be able to read the codes for you.

Took the words out of my mouth!

[Marauderjack]

The oem coils are good quality.

DAMN......WE AGREE ON SOMETHING.....WOW!!!!!:beer::e ek:

[lifespeed]

The oem coils are good quality.

The NEW Ford coils are good. The coils that came on the car originally are a different PN and are garbage.

You think so many people have to replace them because they're good?

[Marauderjack]

The coils that came on the car originally are a different PN and are garbage.

ABSOLUTELY NOT TRUE!!:shake:

The OEM connectors can cause a LOT of problems!!

I replaced my connectors with Granatellis in '05 and still have my OEM coils on the engine after 245K miles......and......IT HAS NOT MISSED A BEAT SINCE!!:beer::bows:

Curious as to why you say this "lifespeed"???:confused:

[lifespeed]

I replace the spark plugs, installed Granatelli solid rope wires without curing the problem. the coils had visible burned insulation from arcing.

the fact that yours have not failed does not imply they all work. why do you think we're reading this thread?

[kingace]

In the mean time just take it to any FLAPS, they should be able to read the codes for you.

I thought they will only do it if the check engine light is on

[RF Overlord]

You can have "pending" codes that won't light the CEL. Not sure if every FLAPS has a code reader that will detect pending codes, but my Actron does...

[Marauderjack]

I have always thought poor conductivity of the springy thingies cause coils to fail so you probably have bad coils from that??

The OEM's that come with the cars are GOOD coils "lifespeed".......no different than FORD coils you can buy today......THAT is the problem I have with your statement about the ones that came on the car being "garbage"!!!:shake: If anything is "garbage" it's the spring connectors!!:mad2:

[kingace]

If the springs are bad, i would have to just get the whole coil correct?.. and i will go to o'reilys after work and ask if they check pending codes..if not would it be a good investment to buy an OBD, if so what is a good brand at a local store

[lifespeed]

I have always thought poor conductivity of the springy thingies cause coils to fail so you probably have bad coils from that??
Conductivity is fine, as measured with an ohm meter. An ignition coil has to jump a spark gap which has enormous resistance. Speculating that a tiny difference in resistance in the style of plug "wire" causes a failure is just that - guessing. Replacing a set of OEM ignition coils with new units and confirming the misfire disappears, however, is objective evidence of the cause of and solution to the problem: Failed ignition coils.

The OEM's that come with the cars are GOOD coils "lifespeed".......no different than FORD coils you can buy today......
The coils you buy today are a different part number, they are not the same.

If you have been on this forum for awhile you know that many people have had to replace their failed ignition coils. Mine gave up at 50K miles. By definition, they are not good.

No need to get all bent out of shape about it.

[lifespeed]

If the springs are bad, i would have to just get the whole coil correct?.. and i will go to o'reilys after work and ask if they check pending codes..if not would it be a good investment to buy an OBD, if so what is a good brand at a local store

AFAIK, you have to buy the entire ignition coil. Based on my experience, just replacing the "plug wire" is highly unlikely to fix a misfire.

You should be aware that not every misfire causes a code, and the ECU is not 100% accurate in diagnosing the problem cylinder. If you are astute enough to recognize a misfire in your engine and have previously confirmed a misfire code you have all the evidence you need to justify replacing all 8 coils and wires. You can get a good deal from an online Ford dealer for about $45 each.

I have put 50K miles on the new part number Ford ignition coils and so far they are good.

Edit: take care with the force you apply to release the locking tab on the wire harness connectors. They can be fragile.

[lifespeed]

Here is one post of many (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1244353&postcount=24) on this forum by a Marauder owner with failed OEM ignition coils. Do a search for "coils" or "COPs", there are many more. Too many to claim the original coils are "good".

That said, the revised part number from Ford seems to work fine. Supposedly MSD is a good option, although I have not tried them on this car. I have used MSD products in the past with excellent results.

[fastblackmerc]

If the springs are bad, i would have to just get the whole coil correct?.. and i will go to o'reilys after work and ask if they check pending codes..if not would it be a good investment to buy an OBD, if so what is a good brand at a local store

The spring aren't bad... just a bad design.

Here is the difference between the OEM springs and GMS springs
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg

[RF Overlord]

if not would it be a good investment to buy an OBD, if so what is a good brand at a local storeYou have a number of options.

A simple code reader, that will also clear codes, can be had for $50. A more elaborate one that reads ABS and does I/M readiness monitoring, and real-time drive-cycle monitoring is more like $200.

You can also get a ScanGauge II that will not only read and clear codes, but allows simultaneous monitoring of up to 4 parameters from a larger list: volts, throttle position, transmission fluid temp, IAT, etc.

[kingace]

Thanks so much guys i appreciate all your feedback im going to just change the rest of the coils and go from there

[fastblackmerc]

You have a number of options.

A simple code reader, that will also clear codes, can be had for $50. A more elaborate one that reads ABS and does I/M readiness monitoring, and real-time drive-cycle monitoring is more like $200.

You can also get a ScanGauge II that will not only read and clear codes, but allows simultaneous monitoring of up to 4 parameters from a larger list: volts, throttle position, transmission fluid temp, IAT, etc.

+1 on the Scangauge.....

This is how I mounted mine. We don't need no stinkin' compass!
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/ScangaugeII/DSCN0010.jpg

[Marauderjack]

You have a number of options.You can also get a ScanGauge II that will not only read and clear codes, but allows simultaneous monitoring of up to 4 parameters from a larger list: volts, throttle position, transmission fluid temp, IAT, etc.

MY GOD...where is your compass and how do you know which way you're going Bob???:eek:

[kingace]

Probably a stupid question but here is goes, how can i find out what the code means

[Marauderjack]

FORD changes part numbers all the time.....sometimes several times a year with no evidence the part has actually changed!!

100K volts may be able to jump a 1" gap but resistance due to corrosion and poor connection with the spring causes HEAT which is death to coils!!

Lots of variables that may change in a coil sway.....low voltage connections, coil to connector and connector to plug......even new plugs!!

Just saying a lot of people have changed coils and probably have not needed to......not "bent out of shape"!!:shake:

[kingace]

FORD changes part numbers all the time.....sometimes several times a year with no evidence the part has actually changed!!

100K volts may be able to jump a 1" gap but resistance due to corrosion and poor connection with the spring causes HEAT which is death to coils!!

Lots of variables that may change in a coil sway.....low voltage connections, coil to connector and connector to plug......even new plugs!!

Just saying a lot of people have changed coils and probably have not needed to......not "bent out of shape"!!:shake:

I could use a new battery

[Marauderjack]

A good friend replaced all coils.....plugs....connectors. ....fuel filter and still had the same problem of sputtering and cutting out at higher RPM's and shift points!!:argue:

Took it to a local FORD dealer and found the FUEL PUMP was on it's last legs.....replaced and all is well!!:beer:

[kingace]

I was reading up on that last night and i haven't had it changed in i don't no how long. I haven't done the rest of my coils yet, i think i will replace the fuel pump first.