Rear Lights Kill Switch??

[jus2rel]

What I would like to accomplish is a switch that would effectively kill all the rear lights while allowing my headlights to be operable. This includes the tag light, running lights, brake lights (also 3rd brake light) and rear turn signal capabilities.

Any ideas on which wire would need the switch or how to make this possible would be greatly appreciated.

[Shaijack]

Had one on all my LEO vehicles.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I would guess you would have to tap into the LCM somewhere. This is often done on crotch rockets, but cars like these would be more difficult.

[Joe Walsh]

....................:hmmm:

Ya runnin' moonshine?

[jus2rel]

Never know when the ability to go complete stealth, so long as I am in front, may be advantageous. But How??

[STEPS]

we used to do this in the 50's

[Joe Walsh]

I always liked hand operated parking brakes because you could bleed off speed in a hurry with no brake lights, with good control/modulation, and the vehicle wouldn't 'nose dive' when you hit the (rear) brakes hard.
LEOs always look for brake lights and the front end dipping suddenly....so I've heard....:o

[jus2rel]

I am not looking for a way to elude police or not get caught braking because I am speeding. I am just curious if it is possible to have 1 main switch that can disable all rear lighting, as I stated before, you never know when rear stealth my be advantageous. It could be for sandbagging a race without someone knowing you've braked.

[martyo]

Had one on all my LEO vehicles.

Got any left?

[marauder21]

I've nevertheless heard of such a thing....I like it lmfao

[slickster]

So weird I was just thinking is this the other day with a hideaway plate

[DOOM]

....................:hmmm:

Ya runnin' moonshine?


:beer: :beer:

[Paul]

I am not looking for a way to elude police or not get caught braking because I am speeding.

Yeah, sure. :rolleyes:

[fastblackmerc]

I believe it can be done.

[Spectragod]

Done it, brake lights need to be isolated with relays, as will the running lights. The relays are a failsafe, so if 1 goes bad, your lights will still work.

[cat in the hat]

I am not looking for a way to elude police or not get caught braking because I am speeding.

Red light cameras ?

[fastblackmerc]

Red light cameras ?

Red light cameras have their own lights.

[Joe Walsh]

Red light cameras ?

Nope....the flash from the camera would light up your tag like a glow-in-the-dark sign.

so I've heard....:(

[cat in the hat]

Red light cameras have their own lights.

I guess that's where THIS comes into play then . . .

http://www.licenseplateflipper.com/

[jus2rel]

The license plate flipper actually works very well, I have that on the motorcycle..
That is not what I am attempting to accomplish with the car. I want the entire back of the car to be able to basically black-out.

[Spectragod]

The license plate flipper actually works very well, I have that on the motorcycle..
That is not what I am attempting to accomplish with the car. I want the entire back of the car to be able to basically black-out.

It can be done, but as I said before, it HAS to be done at each tail light. Done many a brake light kill in police cars, it's not hard to add the running lights into the mix.

[cat in the hat]

I guess that's where THIS comes into play then . . .

http://www.licenseplateflipper.com/


The license plate flipper actually works very well, I have that on the motorcycle.

You're the first person I've ever spoken to who has one of those "license plate flippers," do you mind if I ask what you use it for ?
Frankly, I can not think of one reasonable legal application for it. Especially at over $400.

[pem]

What is the point of all this ???????????????????????

[jus2rel]

The POINT was... I asked a question regarding the capabilities of installing a switch to eliminate the rear lighting of the vehicle. A mechanical question regarding the rear lighting electrical wiring.

Thanks for asking!

[Joe Walsh]

Answer:
Brake light kill switch would be simple enough....wire a toggle switch in line with the brake light switch that is mounted on the brake pedal up under the dash.
It would cut off the power going to the brake lights when you depress the brake pedal.
JUST REMEMBER to flip the switch back to "normal" so you don't get rear ended because of no brake lights!

Running lights would be a matter of wiring another toggle switch in line with the power wire that runs back to your running lights.

You could even wire in three position toggle switches.
Then you would have the center position of the toggle switch as "normal" and the other 2 positions as "off/stealth" mode and "on/get off my bumper" mode!
Could even use momentary contact (spring loaded) toggle switches, that will not stay "on" unless you hold the switch in that position...then they would ALWAYS return to the "normal" postion.

Not that I've ever thought about doing this mod.....;)

[jus2rel]

You're the first person I've ever spoken to who has one of those "license plate flippers," do you mind if I ask what you use it for ?
Frankly, I can not think of one reasonable legal application for it. Especially at over $400.

The motorcycle one only cost about $150 if I remember correctly. I will take a guess you do not ride a motorcycle, let alone a streetbike (crotch rocket). If you do, then you know how fast bikes are and how easy it is to speed. Also, you know how you can move to the side of the tolls and avoid the sensor all together and not pay tolls... (They allow the room on the lane to do it, so people just use it). You regularly see bikes with their tags strategically positioned or bent in a way as to conceal the plate. However, that will get you pulled over by default, so a flipper allows you to flip the switch and go from perfectly fine to completely concealed. So it can be used to go through traffic and not worry about undercover cops when in a hurry or to avoid tolls instead of riding the line to avoid it.

One additional, legal limit is for stunting (aka wheelies and whatnot) which can all be legally done. Or red light cameras as stated earlier, not as easy to just stop a bike when a light decides it wants to skip yellow.

[jus2rel]

Answer:
Brake light kill switch would be simple enough....wire a toggle switch in line with the brake light switch that is mounted on the brake pedal up under the dash.
It would cut off the power going to the brake lights when you depress the brake pedal.
JUST REMEMBER to flip the switch back to "normal" so you don't get rear ended because of no brake lights!

Running lights would be a matter of wiring another toggle switch in line with the power wire that runs back to your running lights.

You could even wire in three position toggle switches.
Then you would have the center position of the toggle switch as "normal" and the other 2 positions as "off/stealth" mode and "on/get off my bumper" mode!
Could even use momentary contact (spring loaded) toggle switches, that will not stay "on" unless you hold the switch in that position...then they would ALWAYS return to the "normal" postion.

Not that I've ever thought about doing this mod.....:rolleyes:

Thank you sir, the info is greatly appreciated.

[Spectragod]

Answer:
Brake light kill switch would be simple enough....wire a toggle switch in line with the brake light switch that is mounted on the brake pedal up under the dash.
It would cut off the power going to the brake lights when you depress the brake pedal.
JUST REMEMBER to flip the switch back to "normal" so you don't get rear ended because of no brake lights!

Running lights would be a matter of wiring another toggle switch in line with the power wire that runs back to your running lights.

You could even wire in three position toggle switches.
Then you would have the center position of the toggle switch as "normal" and the other 2 positions as "off/stealth" mode and "on/get off my bumper" mode!
Could even use momentary contact (spring loaded) toggle switches, that will not stay "on" unless you hold the switch in that position...then they would ALWAYS return to the "normal" postion.

Not that I've ever thought about doing this mod.....;)

^^^^^^The absolute worst way to do this mod^^^^^^^

Unless you like fire in your car.............:shake:

[PantherP71]

Cannonballlers used to wire their lights to a switch.

I think its a rad idea.

[Vortech347]

I thought the body wiring harness in these was the same as the vic's? the LEO's have a certain wire if they ground it kills the rears.

[Spectragod]

I thought the body wiring harness in these was the same as the vic's? the LEO's have a certain wire if they ground it kills the rears.

Uhmmm, no, grounding things will let the magic smoke out though....

[TFB]

Uhmmm, no, grounding things will let the magic smoke out though....

Very true but the lights will be off... Possibly on both ends...

[lifespeed]

P71's had additional wiring. They supplied extra power to the trunk, for example. I would not be surprised if they provided a signal wire (no smoke) to the LCM that could be grounded to shut off the rear lights, as it was probably a common LEO request.

[cat in the hat]

P71's had additional wiring. They supplied extra power to the trunk, for example. I would not be surprised if they provided a signal wire (no smoke) to the LCM that could be grounded to shut off the rear lights, as it was probably a common LEO request.

Why do the Police want to be able to turn off their rear lights ? All the ones I see look like they can't get enough lights on their cars.

[Spectragod]

P71's had additional wiring. They supplied extra power to the trunk, for example. I would not be surprised if they provided a signal wire (no smoke) to the LCM that could be grounded to shut off the rear lights, as it was probably a common LEO request.

They had additional wiring if the car was ordered with it. There was NEVER an option from Ford to disable brake lights or rear lights of any kind. Ford specifically address's this in their upfitter manuals, in regards to NOT modifying the wiring for tail light flashers, back up light flashers and brake light kill switches.

I honestly don't know where people come up with this information...............

[lifespeed]

. . . I would not be surprised if they provided a signal wire . . .


They had additional wiring if the car was ordered with it. There was NEVER an option from Ford to disable brake lights or rear lights of any kind. Ford specifically address's this in their upfitter manuals, in regards to NOT modifying the wiring for tail light flashers, back up light flashers and brake light kill switches.

I honestly don't know where people come up with this information...............

There was both information and speculation in the previous statement, didn't mean to confuse anybody. :confused:

I know for a fact that there is additional power wiring in P71's, at least the '97 I owned. It powered my trailer hitch receptacle.

[Spectragod]

Straight out of the Ford Modifier guide

Linky.........

http://www.wattco.net/tech-support/install-help/police-vehicle-upfitters-guides/

Of course, these diagrams only apply to police vehicles, as the wiring harness's are different than the civilian counterpart, but what do I know, I own a business that upfits police cars.


Tail Light/Brake Light Flashers (Wig-wag)
Adding taillight flashers (wig-wags) to the brake light circuit requires that the splice location is
inside the trunk area. Splicing into the brake light circuit at any other location will cause critical
systems on the vehicle to malfunction. Circuit protection devices have been added to the vehicle to
accommodate taillight flashers. These protection devices will only be effective if the taillight flasher
(wig-wag) module is spliced into the section of the brake light circuit that is in the trunk area.
Disabling Brake Lights
Do not disable the brake light circuits for any reason. For additional information, refer to Section 1:
Safety Information in this guide.





Section 2: Wiring
• Scroll — Similar to convolute, but without the ridges. Scroll is used where harness rigidity is
required, especially for maintaining critical locator dimensions. Use scroll for short lengths only,
as it is quite inflexible.
Note: This is not meant to be an all-inclusive list of methods for physically protecting the wires.
There are other means of protection available that are not listed.
Available Power Sources
Front Power Access Point (C275)
The front power access point is a connector (C275) located below the glove box. This connector
contains various power feeds and inputs available for the addition of police accessories. See the
following illustrations and table for connector and circuit details. A mating connector with blunt cut
wire leads is available from an authorized Ford Dealer with a base service part number of 14A411.
2004 Police Interceptor Modifier Guide
2004 Police Interceptor Modifier Guide 2-15
Section 2: Wiring
Cavitity # Circuit # Gauge Color Function
1 792 10 TN/YE Battery feed from battery junction
box fuse #110 (50A)
2 385 16 WH/RD Hazard in signal
3 175 18 BK/YE Blunt cut to engine compartment
4 401 10 PK Run/Accuracy feed from battery
junction box fuse #111 (30A)
5 Empty - - Empty
6 Empty - - Empty
7 679 18 GY/BK Vehicle speed signal
8 705 16 LG/OG Battery save signal
9 3010 10 TN Battery feed from battery junction
box fuse #117 (50A)
10 689 18 DB Start signal
11 44 16 LB Hazard out signal
12 57 10 BK Ground
Front (Optional) Auxiliary Power Distribution Box
The Auxiliary Power Distribution Box contains the following:
• 30A supply circuit that operates when the vehicle is in the RUN or ACCESSORY position
(Battery Junction Box fuse 111)
• 50A supply circuit connected directly to the battery (Battery Junction Box fuse 117)
• Ten (10) fuses of various amperages
— Five (5) direct to the battery (total 50-amp maximum)
— Five (5) through the ignition switch (total 30-amp maximum)
• Three (3) relays protected by 20A fuses
• Four (4) ground circuits
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Section 2: Wiring
Rear Power Access Point
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Section 2: Wiring
WARNING: UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHOULD THE REAR POWER ACCESS POINT
COVER BE REMOVED WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING THE BATTERY JUNCTION BOX (BJB)
FUSE #110 AND FUSE #117. REMOVING THE COVER WITHOUT REMOVING THE FUSES
COULD RESULT IN AN ELECTRICAL HAZARD. TURN OFF LOAD DEVICES BEFORE
INSERTING THE FUSES. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN
PERSONAL INJURY.
The Rear Power Point is a battery access port for Police auxiliary equipment mounted in the trunk.
It is capable of supplying 80 amps of battery power. The BJB contains two 50 amp fuses (#110
and #117) which protect the Rear Power Access Point. Battery access is provided by two studs
contained in an enclosure, mounted in the trunk behind the carpet, on the right side fender
support. The terminal with the red wire is the battery positive, and the terminal with the black wire
is the ground. Remove both fuses in the BJB before removing the cover to the rear power point.
Insure load devices can be turned off, and are switched off when reinserting the fuses.
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Section 2: Wiring
Police Prep Packages (Optional)
Vehicles equipped with one of the optional Police Prep or Visibility Packages (options 65A, 68P
and 65W) include a different Auxiliary Power Distribution Box that is located in the glove box or
trunk. By checking the area of the glove box or trunk, it can be easily determined if a vehicle is
equipped with a Police Prep and Visibility Package. The standard Front Auxiliary Power
Distribution Box normally mounted below the glove box is deleted and the Police Prep and
Visibility Package Power Distribution Box is installed inside the glove box or trunk. For additional
information, refer to the Ford Police Interceptor Preparation Packages Owner’s Manual that is
included with the vehicle.
2004 Police Interceptor Modifier Guide
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Section 2: Wiring
B-Pillar Light Bar Connector
In the lower right hand B-pillar (behind the B-pillar trim), there is an available power source (light
bar connector C300). This is a 4-pin connector with three (3) circuits. One fused circuit (50 amp)
from the BJB fuse 109 and two (2) ground circuits. See the following chart for connector
information:
Pin Wire Color Description
2 RD/YE Hot at all times
3 BK Ground
4 BK Ground
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Section 2: Wiring
How To Change Option Content
Decklid Release Switch
The decklid release system may be configured to operate either when the ignition key is in the
Run/Accessory position or at all times (without requiring a key). Configuration of the decklid
release switch is accomplished by connecting one of the two available connectors located behind
the dash trim panel. One of them is wired for power at all times and the other is wired for power
only when the ignition key is in the Run/Accessory position.
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Section 2: Wiring
Use the following steps to change this option:
• Remove the dash trim panel by gently pulling to release the nine (9) push-type retainers.
• Disconnect decklid release switch electrical connector.
• Locate and connect the alternate decklid release switch electrical connector.
Note: The connectors can be identified by the wire colors. The connector with the (VT/YE) and
(BK/WH) wires has power at all times. The connector with the (VT/YE) and (YE/GN) wires
has power in the run position.
• Reinstall dash trim panel.
Courtesy Lamp Disable (Dark Mode)
This option offers deletion of the illuminated entry function. Upon vehicle power-up, the Lighting
Control Module (LCM) will monitor the dark car input signal for a ground condition of longer than
two seconds. If the ground is present, no interior lighting will be provided during entry or exit of the
vehicle. The interior lighting will, however, still operate on demand whenever the dome lamp switch
is active. A ground will be provided to the LCM by an in-line connector within the unique police
14401 instrument panel harness. The male terminal side connector will be retained on a portable
clip and the female terminal connector will be tear-taped to a bundle. If the dark car feature is
necessary, the connection will be made on the assembly line. If no connection is made the default
state of the LCM will be to provide illuminated entry. The vehicle can be reconfigured by removing
the power to the module, changing the dark car input from (or to) a ground or an open circuit, and
then reapplying power to the module. The vehicle can also be reconfigured by changing the dark
car input signal from (or to) a ground or an open circuit, entering diagnostics, and then exiting
diagnostics.
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Section 2: Wiring
Use the following steps to disable the courtesy lamps:
• Disconnect the battery.
• Connect C263 - located under the glove box.
• Connect the battery.
Use the following steps to enable the courtesy lamps:
• Disconnect the battery.
• Disconnect C263 - located under glove box.
• Connect the battery.
2004 Police Interceptor Modifier Guide
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Section 2: Wiring
Rear Power Window Disable
The rear window control switches of the Crown Victoria Police Interceptor can be disabled by
disconnecting the rear window power supply connector (C340). This connector is located behind
the LH B-pillar trim panel, adjacent to the seat belt retractor. Disconnect the connector to disable
the rear window control switches. While they are disabled, the master window control switch can
still control the rear windows. Refer to Crown Victoria Wiring Diagram Manual for additional power
window wiring information.

[lifespeed]

I only said there was power available. AGAIN, The tail lights were just speculation.

[Spectragod]

It seems obvious to me that such an electrical connection could be used not only for flashers, but to turn off the tail lights entirely. If you can flash the lights on and off, you can turn them off.

The factory isn't flashing the tail lights themselves as an emergency light. The only way is to interrupt the circuit. Each bulb will need a separate relay.

[Vortech347]

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTnvzxik0TEv jkaoWvcaYaIffY6tByQXTSjLUP03SC 2fvxjPeG1gg

That would be the most effective way honestly.

[ajdereicup]

Using an exhaust brake keeps your brake lights from lighting up while slowing you down nicely