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View Full Version : cam cap bolt keeps breaking!



montyd
02-23-2013, 12:42 PM
I have an 03, and it developed the valve train tick at 1700-2000 rpm. So I tried to re torque the cam cap bolts like I read on the forum. Got to the last cap bolt on the exhaust cam on the drivers side (closest to the fire wall and it broke at 11 ftlbs. Got new bolts and same exact thing happened to the new bolt. And it broke off in the same spot even with the top of the head at 11 ft lbs. Any ideas??? I'm at a loss here

montyd
02-23-2013, 01:08 PM
So i took the cap and gently put it in a vice. Then I put s nut and bolt in the hole the the problem is occurring in. Tried to torque it to 12ft lbs and it feels extremely soft. I'm thinking the cap has lost its integrity and is allowing the bolt to go to deep and snap off. Can I just replace the cap or does it have to be line bored?

Krytin
02-23-2013, 03:02 PM
Never heard of a cap going soft.
Could you be missing a washer on that one bolt? (not trying to be "smart" - just taking a stab at it)

montyd
02-23-2013, 03:46 PM
I don't think so. I had washers on it when it was in the vise and it did the same thing it does in the car

MyBlackBeasts
02-23-2013, 04:35 PM
Test your theory by using an extra washer or shorten the bolt 1/8".

montyd
02-23-2013, 05:02 PM
I think my torque wrench was bad. Tried another and it seems fine. I got it started and it still has a top end noise.

RacerX
02-23-2013, 05:27 PM
I think my torque wrench was bad. Tried another and it seems fine. I got it started and it still has a top end noise.
I was thinking wrench gone bad or set wrong. At least you didn't strip out the threads!

Randy ODell
02-23-2013, 05:35 PM
I can check shop manual may be should be using inche pound wrench.

montyd
02-23-2013, 06:23 PM
Mitchell manual called for 14 fr lbs

na svt
02-23-2013, 07:24 PM
71-106 in lbs is what the Ford engine assembly instructions require. That is 5.9-8.8 ft lbs.

I can't tell you how many people have done this.

JohnE
02-24-2013, 02:09 PM
The tick is likely one or more of your valves getting hung up on the valve guide, from a warped head. Ford redesigned the heads to 'fix' that issue. If this is the issue, then you need your heads rebuilt.

Also double check your exhaust manifolds to make sure you don't have a simple leaking manifold to log gasket. On a stone cold engine, use a shop vac to blow air into the tailpipe. And then use a spray bottle with soap and water to spray all over the parts to check for leaks. This is best done with the front up on jack stands.

babbage
02-24-2013, 02:57 PM
The tick is likely one or more of your valves getting hung up on the valve guide, from a warped head. Ford redesigned the heads to 'fix' that issue. If this is the issue, then you need your heads rebuilt.

Also double check your exhaust manifolds to make sure you don't have a simple leaking manifold to log gasket. On a stone cold engine, use a shop vac to blow air into the tailpipe. And then use a spray bottle with soap and water to spray all over the parts to check for leaks. This is best done with the front up on jack stands.

Great tip!

montyd
02-24-2013, 03:56 PM
I was kinda thinking header leak but I've had those before and this sounds like metal on metal. I pushed the valve springs down and the lifters came up probably half an inch. Is that normal? I'm thinking about pulling the heads and throwing them away and buying 04 heads. Any thoughts?

na svt
02-25-2013, 08:26 AM
I was kinda thinking header leak but I've had those before and this sounds like metal on metal. I pushed the valve springs down and the lifters came up probably half an inch. Is that normal? I'm thinking about pulling the heads and throwing them away and buying 04 heads. Any thoughts?

I posted this in your other thread also:
The lash adjusters don't have 1/2" movement in them and should only have .060" preload at the most.