AC accumulator rotting and repair.

[Richy04]

I am sure some of you have been through this, all of you will so pay attention. Ford uses a steel housing for the accumulator, most others use aluminum. Anyway, the accumulator is like a receiver drier, its just located in a different spot in the a/c chain than a receiver drier. It houses the desiccant (water absorbing material) to remove any moisture in the system and it also catches liquid freon in the system so it doesn't slug the compressor with liquid and damage it. It also holds a little oil in reserve.

What you will see initially is green spots on the ground, then the a/c will quit. The accumulator is located on the passenger frame rail behind the radiator and in front of the motor. the bottom will be all wet with Pag 46 oil and green dye. There are three bolts holding the unit in. You do not have to remove the bolts to get it out. It's easier to remove the spring locks (U shaped metal holders) on the A/C lines first, they come off by hand, then use the (coded white)spring depression tool to depress the circular spring and remove the lines. Then, on the sides of the plastic holder, there are 4 clips you can pry off with a small screw driver,pop the cover off with a small screw driver, remove the pigtail from the pressure sensor and slide the unit towards the water pump and lift it out. Real easy!

Now here is where you may run into trouble. I originally purchased a new one from the local chain. Forget it!! Unless they have an aluminum unit with the straight schrader fitting for the sensor, don't bother. The replacement will come up as a "running change" don't buy it, it doesn't fit, it has an angled schrader for the pressure sensor and upon installation, it will hit the pulley on the pass side of the motor. The part number is 83148 for the straight schrader (the one you want) and T83148 for the one you don't want.

Rock Auto has a beautiful replacement for 22 bucks made by 4 seasons air. It got here in 2 days from the west coast. It it part number 83148 and it is also aluminum, aluminum means NO RUST so it should last longer. When you get it out of the box, leave the rubber caps on until it is mounted back in the car, the reason why is when the desiccant is exposed to any air it, immediately absorbs water, you want it to absorb water inside the system not outside so keep the caps on until you are ready to attach it to the hoses and immediately vac. To get it in, install the sensor snug first, then drop it in front of the water pump and angle it back into the plastic holder on the frame rail, then take the cover and snap it on and then pop the 4 clips back on the covers and its in place. I did not get new o-rings with the unit, but I had a kit with the right size so make sure you pick up a pack of green O-Rings in that size and replace them. There are three on each hose end so you will need six. Lightly lube it and make sure they are clean before you send them into the accumulator housing.

Install the O-Rings, and then get your a/c gear out. You will need 4 cans of R134A, you will need 38oz of that, each can is 12oz , DO NOT BUY ANYTHING WITH SEALER IN IT!! Big Lots has Johansen R-134A on sale for 6.22 a can, non sealer. Buy an 8 oz bottle of PAG 46 oil, put 1.5 oz in the accumulator before you mount it up, .75oz down each tube. Do this only if it leaked out all of the R-134a and dropped oil on the ground, if you are doing preventative maintenance, put only 3/4 of an ounce, then put the rubber caps back into it and mount it up as mentioned above. Do not use an open bottle of PAG 46 because it absorbs moisture, use a new bottle and Advanced has the PAG 46 in 8oz with ICE32 for 8.99, its good stuff!!

Remove the rubber plugs and insert the two lines into the accumulator one at a time, they will click, make sure they lock in and then put the u clips back on.

Added 9-15-13 ****If you run into a problem removing or reinstalling the top line, simply remove the top line from the evap side and this will help you gain some leverage removing and reinstalling it back into the accumulator.*****

Put your gauges on and attach the vacuum pump and vac it for no less than an hour. Check to see if she holds vacuum and if all is well, then you can use your gauges to fill the system with 38oz with a 30lb and a scale. Make sure the a/c is on max, full blast on the fan and at its lowest temp setting with the car running.

If you use cans, you can fill the vacuumed system with gauges if you have the special tee or simply use a R134A filler like the interdynamics brand. When you get to the last can(the fourth can,) you will only need 2oz from it. A full can will dispense two ounces quickly, usually in about 20 seconds on a hot day. You can weigh it on a food scale with the line on it, then weigh it every 5 seconds of refrigerant discharge, in this case you just have to get close. Remove the gauges and lines once its full and recap the fittings.

http://i43.tinypic.com/1q30ya.jpg<<<< No Good


http://i41.tinypic.com/2le3w2d.jpg<<<<< good


http://i43.tinypic.com/oswvlu.gif

The tool goes over the a/c line, the collared end fits into the line end and you push in to release it. In this case, use the white colored tool for both lines, they are color coded by sizes.
Richy 04!!

[Krytin]

Nice write-up - Thanks!

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Very nice. I ran into this repair last summer. Our babies are aging and this repair will be increasingly important for the members.

Admins - Should this be a sticky?

[Richy04]

If you only did one, hop online and order the part from Rock Auto so you have it for the other Marauder. 22 bucks plus shipping, came to 27 bucks to the east coast. I suggest everyone order one or at least pull the cover and inspect yours. Mine was rotted very badly.. The one I put in from 4 seasons is aluminum, should out last the old style for many years.

[Richy04]

Bump for Ms. Denmark!!

[Ms. Denmark]

Thanks Richy04! Great info and great write up. Admins can you please sticky this?:cool:

[Marauderjack]

Great write up but my FORD parts guy said he has never seen this happen with an OEM accumulator down here??:confused:

Just wondering if Winter driving up North actually rots it from the outside??:cool:

[ctrlraven]

Mine was rusting on the bottom and leaking. Had my mechanic friend replace it, I think I paid $120 for parts and labor.

[Marauderjack]

Mine was rusting on the bottom and leaking. Had my mechanic friend replace it, I think I paid $120 for parts and labor.

I understand that is what is happening but how can it even rust inside without any Oxygen and no water if it is evacuated properly??:confused:

Has to be from the outside!!:eek:

[Richy04]

It rots from both, it is where even the smallest amount of moisture is stored. The desiccant bag which holds the moisture is located inside. But it does rot more so from the outside and in the northeast with salt and all it is accelerated.. I would say 95 percent outside, 5 percent inside. There is no perfect vacuum which is why desiccant is put into the accumulator.

[FastMerc]

I had mine replaced a couple weeks ago, leaking out the bottom. Thanks for the hand Ken.

[Marauderjack]

The desiccant ties the moisture up then and I would guess there would be very little corrosion on the inside like you say......5% or less!!:beer:

I looked at mine when I installed the fan and it still has paint on the bottom with no indication of corrosion!!:bows:

[Richy04]

Never mind that a/c stuff, how is the moonshine down by you? I usually get mine from Tennessee. 2 to 3 quarts every year, the guy who makes it is 90 years old, it's awesome!

[Tore Back]

I'm in the middle of servicing my AC. My accumulator is new and the correct style with the straight Schrader valve. when I got everything back together it held vacuum but it leaks from the pressure switch that screws on to the Schrader valve when under pressure. its a new pressure switch and a new o-ring.

I cant figure it out any one had this problem?

[Marauderjack]

Never mind that a/c stuff, how is the moonshine down by you? I usually get mine from Tennessee. 2 to 3 quarts every year, the guy who makes it is 90 years old, it's awesome!

Nope.....I think the Mountain Folk have that covered!!:cool:

We just have the store bought stuff here but that's adequate at sea level.....believe me!!:eek:

[hotford]

Great write up but my FORD parts guy said he has never seen this happen with an OEM accumulator down here??:confused:

Just wondering if Winter driving up North actually rots it from the outside??:cool:


All my 06 crown vics ran into this problem...........

about 10 in my fleet all police package vehicles.........

no biggy easy repair..........

[Richy04]

Either the schrader was damaged or not properly formed or the switch threads are bad. Try a new o-ring, maybe another sensor. Then pull vacuum again. If it still leaks then the nipple is bad. Remove the sensor then pull vacuum and see if the schrader valve is leaking. You want to pull vacuum with the sensor off and cap it so the system remains closed. If the sensor is removed, the needle on the schrader closes and maintains the integrity of the system. I would bet on the sensor not seating properly or the o-ring is nicked.



I'm in the middle of servicing my AC. My accumulator is new and the correct style with the straight Schrader valve. when I got everything back together it held vacuum but it leaks from the pressure switch that screws on to the Schrader valve when under pressure. its a new pressure switch and a new o-ring.

I cant figure it out any one had this problem?

[PRCARGUY]

Nice write-up - Thanks!


Very nice. I ran into this repair last summer. Our babies are aging and this repair will be increasingly important for the members.

Admins - Should this be a sticky?


Mine was rusting on the bottom and leaking. Had my mechanic friend replace it, I think I paid $120 for parts and labor.


I had mine replaced a couple weeks ago, leaking out the bottom. Thanks for the hand Ken.
Same here! ;)

[MENINBLK]

Richy,

I replaced mine with the T83148 and it works. You just need to reposition it slightly.
I had it replaced by Wes when I drove out to Oklahoma and then to Texas to see him for a weekend.
That was 2 years ago.
I added a can of Oil Charge and a 32 oz can of R134A WITH SEALANT from WalMart.
My AC blows so cold you FREEZE like you were sitting in a meat locker.
Every summer I call Wes and complain to him that I can't run it on 60 very long.
I have to move it to 65 after 10 minutes.
I got my Acculmulator from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $65 back then.
All we had to do was twist the accumulator so that the schrader valve was clear of the engine belts and mount it up in that position.
It has been working fine since then.

[Ken]

I had mine replaced a couple weeks ago, leaking out the bottom. Thanks for the hand Ken. You're welcome Mark.

My 04's was rusted out when I bought it. Was driven year-round.

[racorcey]

So, after 8 years of otherwise happy AC'ing, about a month or so ago, I started noticing that it was taking forever to get "cold", and not even terribly great at that. Put the gauges on, and found everything low. Wound up adding about 20+ oz of the good stuff. I just assumed it had leaked out through Ford's famous connectors during the winter. I now have 138k miles on the car.

After the refill, I couldn't believe how much cold I was missing!

I started to notice about 2 weeks ago that the cold was started to be, well, not so cold again. And today, at 85 deg at lunch, one of the guys mentioned, "...gee, don't you need some Freon?" Needless to say, this was annoying - again.

So, for the rest of lunch, I started looked here on the forum, and, fortunately, found this. I went out to the car, and, with a paper towel, cleaned off the bottom the accumulator. Mostly dirt, of course, but a definite pronouncement of green spots - as mentioned above. I also noticed a bit of a "wet spot," similar to an oil spot, that seemed to be around the lower half of the accumulator.

I assume then, that this is likely the leak, although it's not as dramatic as described above (green spots on the ground). I didn't see anything "wet" around the other visible connectors leading to and from and nearby.

[Richy04]

Randy, it starts to leak slowly as mine did. The steel can rots and small pinhole leaks ensue. Order a 4 seasons aluminum can (part number in original post) so it won't rot again. Make sure it has the straight schrader for the sensor. No "T" in the part number. I know someone above had the angled one and had good luck but I didn't plus there's nothing to keep it in place and I would be afraid it would move and hit the pulley. My air took 2-3 weeks before it blew warm after it began dripping green dye on the ground.

[1stMerc]

Randy, it starts to leak slowly as mine did. The steel can rots and small pinhole leaks ensue. Order a 4 seasons aluminum can (part number in original post) so it won't rot again. Make sure it has the straight schrader for the sensor. No "T" in the part number. I know someone above had the angled one and had good luck but I didn't plus there's nothing to keep it in place and I would be afraid it would move and hit the pulley. My air took 2-3 weeks before it blew warm after it began dripping green dye on the ground.

If you're lucky, mine pretty much let go all at once. Stopped at Walgreens, came out and large green puddle under car. Air went warm couple days later.

P.s make sure who ever replaces it flushes the system (if that's possible)
compressor went out two weeks later. That (compressor replace) was an expensive job at the dealers.

[lifespeed]

Ten-year-old AC isn't as cold as it used to be, but is definitely still functioning. Probably time for a full service. Hopefully no compressor or more serious problems. But the receiver/drier and associated O-rings should absolutely be changed as part of any service, rust or no.

Is the Four Seasons 83148 the best part to use? I normally use Ford parts unless there is a compelling reason to go aftermarket (like some suspension components). Given it's aluminum construction, I can see the benefit of reduced corrosion, weight, and a 0.1 second improvement in 1/4 mile times.

[racorcey]

Ten-year-old AC isn't as cold as it used to be, but is definitely still functioning. Probably time for a full service. Hopefully no compressor or more serious problems. But the receiver/drier and associated O-rings should absolutely be changed as part of any service, rust or no.

Is the Four Seasons 83148 the best part to use? I normally use Ford parts unless there is a compelling reason to go aftermarket (like some suspension components). Given it's aluminum construction, I can see the benefit of reduced corrosion, weight, and a 0.1 second improvement in 1/4 mile times.

Life....it looks like Ford (or somebody) is going to make a killing on the remaining older Panther chassis still on the road. The location of this part is a real gimme to them.

BTW, I wanted to correct a minor misconception regarding steel vs aluminum....aluminum does rust - it's called aluminum oxide, that white stuff you see on aluminum as it rusts, as opposed to iron oxide, the red stuff you see on iron products, obviously including steel.

However, in open air, and in the presence of sodium chloride, aluminum will hold up longer than an equivalent steel piece. However, I can personally vouch for rusted aluminum in various uses.

Be that as it may, the Four Seasons part number is the correct one, and looks to be a good substitute. The reason it's so inexpensive, is where it's made.

The Ford OEM part lists for about $120, although you can get it at Rockauto for about $85. However, be aware that the old OEM part is no longer available, and there is a substitute part number (don't have it handy) for it now. This Ford OEM sub has the Schrader valve at the undesired right angle. One size fits all - not! I agree with Richy04 on this one.

Richy's write-up was very good, although you don't want to really tackle it if you've not had experience with AC. Once done, you shouldn't have to worry about this particular problem for a long while. By that time, the car frame will be rotting away next to the accumulator holder.

[Comin' in Hot]

and it happened to me, just ordered it from rockauto

[racorcey]

and it happened to me, just ordered it from rockauto

Kinda reminds you of that song - "Another One Bites the Dust"! :mad:

[Phrog_gunner]

Aluminum does not rust. It corrodes, but does not rust. That is all....

[RF Overlord]

Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys, such as steel. Many other metals undergo equivalent corrosion, but the resulting oxides are not commonly called rust.

[mrjones]

Great write up. Why do you say not to use the R134 with NO SEALANT? Just curious.

[lifespeed]

Great write up. Why do you say not to use the R134 with NO SEALANT? Just curious.

Ghetto mechanic-in-a-bottle. If you have a leak, fix it.

[racorcey]

Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys, such as steel. Many other metals undergo equivalent corrosion, but the resulting oxides are not commonly called rust.

OK, I stand corrected, sort of:

"Aluminum corrodes but it does not rust. Rust refers only to iron and steel corrosion.

"Aluminum is actually very prone to corrosion. However, aluminum corrosion is aluminum oxide, a very hard material that actually protects the aluminum from further corrosion. Aluminum oxide corrosion also looks a lot more like aluminum (dull gray to powdery white in color), so it isn't as easy to notice as rusted iron.

"When iron corrodes the color changes and it actually expands. This expanding and color change can produce large red flakes that we all know as rust. Unlike aluminum oxide, the expanding and flaking off of rust exposes new metal to further rusting. This is why it is so important to provide a barrier so rust doesn't start."

In our case, the rust has a tendency to turn green - as in the green dye that drips down from accumulator. Lucky us.

[racorcey]

Since I live near Richy04, I was in contact with him, and goaded him into helping me, for which he graciously agreed to help me. Being that the guy is busier than a one-armed paper hanger, I decided to go it alone today (Sat). Many cuts and bruises later (not to mention cuss words), the job is done - and I couldn't have done the job without his great description.

Some additional notes....

I had to remove the 3 bolts holding the plastic housing that holds accumulator. Even after removing the 4 clips that act to hold the plastic housing together like a clamshell, I could not break the plastic housing apart.

I also had some problems removing one of the AC connections to the accumulator. Eventually, I did, but that's where the cuss words came in handy.

Finally, some pics....from the bottom, and the two sides, of the old OEM accumulator.

ADDED 08/12.....forgot to add earlier - 6 O-rings came in a small bag attached to the accumulator. It's a good thing I had ordered the O-ring kit, since the included 6 O-rings were too small for the job. Furthermore, when I was discarding the shipping box, out fell another plastic bag that had 3 correct-sized O-ring (not the 6 that you need) and one spring lock (when two might be needed). Go figure.

[Krytin]

Yep, That's broke!!
Nice work!

[racorcey]

Yep, That's broke!!
Nice work!

Thank you. Next!! :)

BTW, a friend just called and told me I was posting porn here. I asked him what he was talking about. He said, "..go back and look at the picture labeled 'bottom,' and you'll see what I'm talking about." Dang, he was right. I will say no more! :o

Now on to the rear axle bearings.....

[Richy04]

Great write up. Why do you say not to use the R134 with NO SEALANT? Just curious.

Never use sealant in an a/c system, always repair the leak. Sealant will ruin your compressor and sometimes clog the passages in the condensor or evap. 134 uses smaller passageways in the condensor than 12 because the molecules are smaller.

The Rock auto accumulator works fine and it is aluminum. I suspect the aluminum part will outlast the Ford part by double the time if not more. Use the straight up schrader and be assured it will never contact the pulley. Once you see the green dye, stop using the a/c. It will be easier to calculate the loss of PAG46 from the system. The Ford part is a waste of money and the aluminum type will always hold up better. If the Ford part were any good, this thread would not exist.

Make sure when you buy the cans of 134 (unless you have a 20-30lb'er) make sure it has no oil or sealer in it. Just put 1.5 oz of Pag 46 in the ports of the accumulator and it should be fine.

[Richy04]

Hey Randy, I was waiting for your call, I would have helped you!!

[Richy04]

To pop the plastic housing off, try pushing the top of the accumulator towards the drivers side to pop the catches, worked for me. lol

[racorcey]

Hey Randy, I was waiting for your call, I would have helped you!!

Sent you a PM.

[lifespeed]

Just had my receiver/drier replaced with the 4 Seasons aluminum unit. Also put in a new Ford condenser for good measure as mine was looking pretty beat up from road debris.

The mechanic said he had never seen a Marauder, and was surprised to see that "beast of a motor" under the hood. The original drier was rusted, even though it has not seen snow or salt.

It works great and blows ice cold air now. I can actually set the thermostat to the desired temperature as it has enough capacity to make it too cold again.

[racorcey]

Just had my receiver/drier replaced with the 4 Seasons aluminum unit. Also put in a new Ford condenser for good measure as mine was looking pretty beat up from road debris.

The mechanic said he had never seen a Marauder, and was surprised to see that "beast of a motor" under the hood. The original drier was rusted, even though it has not seen snow or salt.

It works great and blows ice cold air now. I can actually set the thermostat to the desired temperature as it has enough capacity to make it too cold again.

Lifespeed - you area of CA doesn't count towards "low humidity." I've been there - it's like a northern rain forest :).

[lifespeed]

Lifespeed - you area of CA doesn't count towards "low humidity." I've been there - it's like a northern rain forest :).

LOL. It's lower humidity than Florida and Texas!

I think it is safe to generalize our 10 year old rusty steel AC driers could use replacing and a recharge. Depending on how beat up your condenser is, might not be a bad idea to evaluate that as well.

[racorcey]

LOL. It's lower humidity than Florida and Texas!

I think it is safe to generalize our 10 year old rusty steel AC driers could use replacing and a recharge. Depending on how beat up your condenser is, might not be a bad idea to evaluate that as well.

Lifespeed - Out here, we don't have that dry, sandy, type soil sandblasting our condensers. Just bigger pebbles and rocks, and, of course, salt. :D

Actually, I did inspect the condenser, and didn't find anything worth replacing. However, several of the brackets on the front of the engine had some rust on them.

It's amazing the car frames have lasted this long!

[Richy04]

bumpbumpbump

[GreekGod]

Rock Auto also has many tools available on their website. Some prices are very good--some not, and better to buy locally

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