Trouble with the Rear End

[marauder'10]

Has anyone had trouble with their rear end? When I first purchased my Marauder back in august of 2010 I had to replace a seal on the right side. Two years later that seal went bad again and I ended up having to replace my entire rear end. Now a year later today I came outside to discover that there is a leak on the left side. I drove her a bit and heard popping noises as I put her in drive and reverse and also when taking off or stopping. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[MOTOWN]

Could be a bad bearing, ebrake coming apart, or a bad axle ,wont know until its opened up and looked at.

[Curless]

Your axles and bearings are gone. When these rear ends leak they have bad axles. Seals are by product of bad axles...you can get new from NAPA and they come with the bearing and the seal and the axle all in one box.

[Marauderjack]

Chris,

Is the NAPA stuff better than FORD parts??:confused:

[usabodyguard]

I had a local shop replace my drivers side rear axle, seal and bearing... 2 years and 20k miles later and it's bad again - WTF!?

The last shop charged me $450 to repair it, and obviously they won't do **** for warranty.

Question 1, is this something a home mechanic with jack stands with moderated exp do? Is there an axle package(shaft, bearings, seals,) that anyone can rec?

Thanks

[Blackened300a]

I had a local shop replace my drivers side rear axle, seal and bearing... 2 years and 20k miles later and it's bad again - WTF!?

The last shop charged me $450 to repair it, and obviously they won't do **** for warranty.

Question 1, is this something a home mechanic with jack stands with moderated exp do? Is there an axle package(shaft, bearings, seals,) that anyone can rec?

Thanks

Some of us go with dorman axles that are available from Summit, and others suggest heading to the dealer and picking up a OEM one.
The axle seals and bearings can be purchased at your local parts store. I suggest National bearings and seals. We use them on our trucks and they last the longest. I also replaced mine 25K miles ago and no problems.

Yes, the job can be done on jack stands but you will need to either buy or rent a bearing removal tool that threads onto a slap hammer.
OTC makes a good kit for $50 or you can get one at Sears and the slap hammer can be purchased at Harbor freight for around the same price.
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRfSlDWr57Mp 1C9LgAfWVXjqTsFk7SadRVoP_iLcd_ mSVr9A6NZ
This tool will be needed to remove the outer axle bearing, there is no other option.

Jack up the rear and support with stands
Remove rear tires
Remove diff cover and drain oil
Remove rear brake calipers and rotors
Remove the 7mm bolt that holds the ABS sensor into the backing plate and slide sensor out
Spin diff until you can see the 7mm bolt on the top of the carrier that holds the center pin and remove bolt, then slide the pin out (DO NO REMOVE S SPRING) Also it is recommended to replace this small bolt because if it breaks, or un-threads, you will have a ton of issues trying to remove or have the center pin come out and wreak havoc inside the diff.
Holding the axle in place is a C clip on the axle snub, spin the axle til the back of the axle studs clear the parking brake assembly and slides all the way in so that you can see the C clip completely.
Using a magnet or needle nose pliers, remove C clip and then slide the axle out of the tube.
Use mentioned tool to slap the bearing and seals out of the end of the tubes.
There is a lip on the end of the tube that will allow the bearing to only go into so far. I suggest lubing the bearing with the same gear oil you are replacing into the diff. Use a over size socket or bearing tool to replace the bearing and seal. Note "outer" on the seal and bearing.
Inspect the axle for pitting or wear especially where the bearing rides on the shaft. That is where its most prone to have marks, replace if necessary.
With your bearings and seals back in place, reinstall your axles, C clips, and center pin with new keeper bolt, then reinstall the diff cover.
Reinstall the brakes and wheels, then fill the diff.

Royal purple makes a good gear oil with friction modifier in it for the clutch material. If you use regular gear oil, you will need this modifier or you will be doing this over again to replace burnt clutch packs. The modifier is available at any Ford dealer for $9.
I suggest getting a hand pump to fill the diff due to the awkward angles and the limited room to fit the bottle of oil in.
Take your time and it should be a 2 hour job tops start to finish.

[RacerX]

My rear end's working fine! It's the smell that kills ya! :lol:

[usabodyguard]

Blackened300A thank you very much for the help and tutorial... If there was only a picture tutorial!

Is this the kit I need (yes it's the correct side) do I need anything else, or is this the complete kit (hard parts)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-630-214

I will go with the royal purple with modifier in it.

Will this slide hammer and bearing pulley from harbor freight work, or will I still need the version you spoke about.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
Also that 7mm bolt inside the diff, is this standard, hardened, specialty? Is this something I can pickup anywhere?

[Blackened300a]

Blackened300A thank you very much for the help and tutorial... If there was only a picture tutorial!

Is this the kit I need (yes it's the correct side) do I need anything else, or is this the complete kit (hard parts)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-630-214

I will go with the royal purple with modifier in it.

Will this slide hammer and bearing pulley from harbor freight work, or will I still need the version you spoke about.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
Also that 7mm bolt inside the diff, is this standard, hardened, specialty? Is this something I can pickup anywhere?

Read the reviews on that kit from Harbor freight. I would suggest using the style I posted because the bearing is not going to fall right out and will take some force that I think would break that HF puller within a few tries.

That axle is the correct one. The replacement bolt has a long shank on the end of it and its a specialty bolt from Ford that's always included in any rear end shim or rebuild kit.
That small bolt is the one.
http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/50092?$s7product$
As for pics, this thread may help you even more.
http://unitedpantherownersassociation .us/Forum/Thread-Ford-8-8-Trac-Loc-clutch-replacement-with-carrier-still-in-car

[Vortech347]

If its an 03' make sure the axle TSB was done. Make sure you get newer axles to install. Throwing in another set of 03's will likely wear out again too.

[Gryphonzus]

The axles and seals went out on mine so I got a replacement kit from ford that contained both axles all the seals and bearings and fluid to rebuild it. It cost a little more than one axle and the bearings. Good luck!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[License2Bill]

If its an 03' make sure the axle TSB was done. Make sure you get newer axles to install. Throwing in another set of 03's will likely wear out again too.

I have an 03. How do I check if the TSB was done on this car?

I have the skills and tools to do it myself but if it's covered by Ford, I'll let them deal with.

OP, I replaced the bearings, seals, and axles on my crown victoria 2 years ago. It is as easy as they make it sound. Just try not to let the spider gears fall out of the carrier. Those were a real joy trying to get back in by myself!

[fastblackmerc]

I have an 03. How do I check if the TSB was done on this car?

I have the skills and tools to do it myself but if it's covered by Ford, I'll let them deal with.

OP, I replaced the bearings, seals, and axles on my crown victoria 2 years ago. It is as easy as they make it sound. Just try not to let the spider gears fall out of the carrier. Those were a real joy trying to get back in by myself!

Check with RoyalPita, he can run a ceck in the Ford system.

I highly doubt Ford will do the TSB unless you have a Ford extended warranty. Most TSBs will expire when the vehicle is out of warranty.

[Vortech347]

But, you can purchase the TSB package sometimes.

[Gryphonzus]

Ford claims the TSB is for fleet venicles only! but yes you can purchase the kit. At least when I needed one I got one.

[fastblackmerc]

But, you can purchase the TSB package sometimes.


Ford claims the TSB is for fleet venicles only! but yes you can purchase the kit. At least when I needed one I got one.

This is true.

[GreekGod]

If you don't get all the debris from a bearing failure cleaned out of the axle housing, you can plan on replacing an axle shaft (or 2) every 20,000 miles.

The pinion area is very difficult to access for cleaning. I power washed my housing.