Not my best day in the garage

[BigCars4Ever]

Decided to replace my 133k miles water pump today. Noticed it was a little loose. Swapped the pump out without any fuss. Then I decided to remove my crossover tube to test fit some 3d printed risers before I sent them out for machining. That went good too! Put everything back together, filled the reservoir with antifreeze. Then went to remove the crossover bleed plug and ughh, it was seized. Tried beating it with a soft faced mallet, spraying wd40, a little heat from a heat gun. No budge. I took the crossover tube back off so I can spray some wd40 into the pipe. More beating and heating. The only thing I managed to do was make the square hole round. I ended up welding a 15mm nut to the top of the plug and finally got it out. Cleaned everything up and re-installed the crossover tube. Topped it off and now the o-rings are leaking. I must have damaged them. Looks like I'm off to my local Ford dealer in the morning to order a new plug and o-rings.

[martyo]

Those COTs are ten plus years old and can be very pesky!

[lji372]

I have plugs here

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92253

O'ring may be a standard size, if so any parker hydraulics store should be able to help you out.

Regardless if you need help removing the plug you could ship it to me. Obviously wouldn't be your first choice but it's an option.

[justbob]

I never chance them o rings! I don't care if they are one week old, out with the old, in with the new.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[vegasmarauder]

I was told the plug is now obsolete from Ford. O-ring is 9/16ID X 11/16OD X 1/16 thick. I change them every time the COTP comes out.

I have posted this before, but what I have found that works for a stuck COTP (8 of them now) is a 50/50 mix of acetone and Mercon V trans fluid. Have to put in a plastic bottle that will work for hair dye or it will dissolve the bottle. Put it around the edge of the plug. Then take two hammers and put one on one side of the plug and then tap with the other on the opposite side of the plug. Go around the circumference of the plug a couple times. Then use more 50/50 mix. Tap again. Then try to loosen the plug. The acetone wicks into the crack better than any other penetrant (PB Blaster, WD-40, Kroil, etc.) and carries the Mercon V fluid with it. The tapping cracks the corrosion seal between the two parts and lets the acetone/Mercon in.

In the past 5 years I have not rounded off a COTP or broken a 1/4 drive rachet off. I have been pulling them from Lincolns in the wrecking yards using this technique.

Also, when you put it back in, use some anti-seize on just the threaded portion of the plug, not on the O-ring.

Just my .02 worth.

[whitey]

I took channellocks to the lip of the cot plug to remove it since the 1/4" drive on a 3/8"to1/4" drive adapter snapped off in it. Also for the cot orings, when reinstalling i put a bead of black rtv around the new o rings. Works like a charm.

[BigCars4Ever]

Live and learn. Does the acetone/trans fluid hurt the crossover tube coating? I like the stainless plug but I'm worried that once I lift my crossover tube the hex head would rub the hood liner.

[babbage]

No way the new machined cot plug will rub, only 1/4 higher. Easy way to take off factory COT cap is propane torch around fitting 35 seconds, of course you need to let some coolant out so the COT doesn't have coolant in the top, which would stop the tube from getting hot. Heat around the (empty) COT cap and that metal will expand and you can break it loose.

Love the machined cap I got from FBM. Similar to the ones above.

[Green96]

What is the cross over tube made of? Aluminum?

[whitey]

What is the cross over tube made of? Aluminum?

The metal that rust! Steel unfortunately.

[fastblackmerc]

No way the new machined cot plug will rub, only 1/4 higher. Easy way to take off factory COT cap is propane torch around fitting 35 seconds, of course you need to let some coolant out so the COT doesn't have coolant in the top, which would stop the tube from getting hot. Heat around the (empty) COT cap and that metal will expand and you can break it loose.

Love the machined cap I got from FBM. Similar to the ones above.

Still have one left.

[lji372]

Still have one left.

And if your lucky it'll fit :laugh:

[Spectragod]

And if your lucky it'll fit :laugh:

But I know a guy who can fix it.......:rolleyes:

[Zack]

The orings are only listed under a Lincoln part #
391533-S100 is the #, sold in packs of 3

[Zack]

Any off the shelf oring will not fit properly, get the ones I listed

[BigCars4Ever]

Got them ordered. About $7 a package.

[lji372]

Any off the shelf oring will not fit properly, get the ones I listed

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62175


You can also get orings from the hardware store...where i always buy them.


Go to the hardware store. The only difference between factory orings and others is the fact the OEM's are flat. The rings from the hardware store will be a little harder to get in, but they go in. Coat the ring and tube in black rtv and you will be set.

i love you!!!!!!!!!!

:laugh: :flamer:

[Zack]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62175





i love you!!!!!!!!!!

:laugh: :flamer:

Did you make those quotes? Im not following you. :confused:

[Curless]

Isn't the quote button awesome! LMAO!

[marauderthis]

Well... it didn't take to long before another individual fell victim to the idiotic COT system. (This COT design is a joke it really sucks)
Truthfully I was expecting another posting of a EATC system failure i.e. the POS blend door --- $75 for the part $1000 in labor into Ford's pocket to fix the crappy garbage.


Hey BigCars4Ever I have some advice --- make sure you repeatedly burb the system -- I am sure you know that.



Here is the kicker very important --- many months from now when the car is subjected to its very -first- exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees remove the COT plug and check to see if there is coolant in the tube.

More than likely you will be shocked to find after first exposure to cold there is very little coolant in the COT tube even though the reservoir indicates full!
No--- there is no leaks in your system the issue is the idiotic design and good old physics. If you don’t catch this idiosyncrasy in time -bang- you car is done.

I was damn lucky last year an ex Ford mechanic in Dothan, Alabama warned me and sure enough I encountered it and corrected it before my engine took a hit.


Thank You FORD