View Full Version : Blower issue.
cunaginc
05-27-2014, 07:30 AM
Got in my car and the windows were fogged up, so I turn on the blower and get nothing. Got down the road at about 60 and a little air stated to come out. At a red light, I was messing with the controls and you can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I roll the knob all the way to the top, but nothing more came out. I've got a spare BCM in my basement but I already tried a different EATC and was wondering if there were any other ideas.
fastblackmerc
05-27-2014, 07:46 AM
Got in my car and the windows were fogged up, so I turn on the blower and get nothing. Got down the road at about 60 and a little air stated to come out. At a red light, I was messing with the controls and you can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I roll the knob all the way to the top, but nothing more came out. I've got a spare BCM in my basement but I already tried a different EATC and was wondering if there were any other ideas.
Try tapping the BCM. If the fan comes on your BCM is going bad (I'll pay you to ship the old one to me).
If not, run the EATC self-test. Let us know what the codes are.
cunaginc
05-27-2014, 08:23 AM
Thanks. Here is a stupid question, but what is an EATC self test
fastblackmerc
05-27-2014, 08:47 AM
If you search the internet for "marauder eatc self test" the first hit is this:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=58956
See post #2.
fastblackmerc
05-27-2014, 05:47 PM
Got in my car and the windows were fogged up, so I turn on the blower and get nothing. Got down the road at about 60 and a little air stated to come out. At a red light, I was messing with the controls and you can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I roll the knob all the way to the top, but nothing more came out. I've got a spare BCM in my basement but I already tried a different EATC and was wondering if there were any other ideas.
I could use your old BCM if you swap it out.
cunaginc
05-27-2014, 06:21 PM
When I got to my car my brother sat inside as I tapped/flicked/ banged with no improvement. so today in traffic I did the EATC self test with no codes shown and about a half hour late of just sitting there moving about a whole 10 feet. The blower started up and has worked. So I'm not sure if I should just wait tell it stops for good or what. Ideas?
fastblackmerc
05-27-2014, 07:09 PM
When I got to my car my brother sat inside as I tapped/flicked/ banged with no improvement. so today in traffic I did the EATC self test with no codes shown and about a half hour late of just sitting there moving about a whole 10 feet. The blower started up and has worked. So I'm not sure if I should just wait tell it stops for good or what. Ideas?
You know it will stop working on the hottest day of the year.
cunaginc
05-28-2014, 04:40 AM
Yeah yesterday it was 89 and were sitting in traffic, just as soon as we get to the part where there is no divider and turn arround it starts blowing. Typical
BLACKMARAUDER04
05-28-2014, 05:10 PM
I'd replace the BCM. I've done it twice. The second after it failed in
death valley at 112 degrees. I was able to nurse it on low after about 20 minutes. Replaced it the following week. No problems since.
Sactown
06-01-2014, 02:11 PM
Try tapping the BCM. If the fan comes on your BCM is going bad (I'll pay you to ship the old one to me).
I did the BCM tap just now and it fixed things. Is it typically a solder joint going bad or a component on the BCM?
Marauderjack
06-02-2014, 05:12 AM
I did the BCM tap just now and it fixed things. Is it typically a solder joint going bad or a component on the BCM?
Yep it's a bad solder joint with lead-less solder!!:mad2:
Sometime the tap fix lasts years and sometimes only days!!:shake:
Best to re-solder or replace!!:beer:
fastblackmerc
06-02-2014, 05:37 AM
I did the BCM tap just now and it fixed things. Is it typically a solder joint going bad or a component on the BCM?
Yes it is. You'll need a high wattage soldering iron to fix the joint.
Sactown
06-02-2014, 07:52 AM
Yep it's a bad solder joint with lead-less solder!!:mad2:
Sometime the tap fix lasts years and sometimes only days!!:shake:
Best to re-solder or replace!!:beer:
Yes it is. You'll need a high wattage soldering iron to fix the joint.
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a replacement will better fit my situation...unless.... IIRC the blinky door panel lights are due to bad soldering joints as well, do you folks know if that fix is also lead-less? If so I may get me a new iron instead.
RF Overlord
06-02-2014, 07:59 AM
Which blinky door panel lights? If it's for the heated seats, then no that's not a soldering issue. If it's for the window switches, then yes.
fastblackmerc
06-02-2014, 07:59 AM
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like a replacement will better fit my situation...unless.... IIRC the blinky door panel lights are due to bad soldering joints as well, do you folks know if that fix is also lead-less? If so I may get me a new iron instead.
Yes they are related.
You'll need 2 irons one that's 300Watts or more and a 20 - 25Watt.
Sactown
06-02-2014, 08:03 AM
Which blinky door panel lights? If it's for the heated seats, then no that's not a soldering issue. If it's for the window switches, then yes.
Dang, I've got both problems LOL.
Mest30
08-19-2014, 07:36 PM
Does tapping the bcm do anything if air is blowing out, just not cold air? Or does it only work if no air is blowing out period? If it does work, any pointers on where to locate the bcm?
lji372
08-19-2014, 07:49 PM
Does tapping the bcm do anything if air is blowing out, just not cold air? Or does it only work if no air is blowing out period? If it does work, any pointers on where to locate the bcm?
If air is blowing it's not the bcm. It's on the firewall to the passenger side of the trans dipstick
Mest30
08-19-2014, 07:52 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. Guess I can rule that out. Maybe I will bite the bullet and get a recharge at jiffy lube and see if that works.
If low freon is the culprit recharging is just a band-aid
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