411 on swapping for real AutoMeter gauges!

[djcwardog]

After reading several posts and viewing some excellent pictures I ordered the proper gauges yesterday from Jeg's. I think I have learned that I just install the new sending unit in the engine block (replacing the old one) and then use a T-tap and splice into the stock wire coming off the sending unit down by the engine. Less clear is the wire connections up at the guages. I see mention of a white w/ red stripe wire at the gauge head for oil pressure. Tap into that? What about ground and lights? Same questions for the Volts gauge. I want to retain as much of the factory stuff as I can to include the plastic cup that surrounds the gauges, factory wire plug connectors, etc... Can someone please tell me the steps to splice in my new gauges to the factory wiring and lighting that will remain when I unplug and remove the two "dummy" gauges? I called Trilogy yesterday about their s/c kit. I confirmed that they provide you with an AutoMeter #4301 boost gauge - which looks identical to the two I just bought (#'s 4327 and 4391). I can't believe that both the oil pressure and the volts gauge are nothing more than dummies that give a bare indication of function and no more! How could L-M have decided to pay good money to AutoMeter for this? What customers would ever be happy upon learning that they were duped? Bizarre! Anyway, some concise wiring hints would be great! Thanks!

[darebren]

I'm trying to think how I did mine...

for the volts guage I think it is just a simple guage swap for the new one.. they are both the same, but the face matches the other Auto meter guages which is why I switch mine

the oil pressure guage was easy, there are factory connectors on the back of the stock guage for power, ground and sending.. what i did was cut the wires one at a time and crimp on ring posts to use the stock wires on the new guage.. the sending was in the middle and power on the right i think..but it might be marked too..if the stock guage is not marked, then i do believe it is the same configuration as the new guage which is marked so you can use that as a reference to which side is power and ground. and down by the sending unit, I used a inline tee and ran a short piece of wire with a ring loop connector to the new sending unit.. I just left the factory connection dangle about an inch from my new inline tee

I also have oil temp and air fuel guages in the a pillar, they required all new wiring, but once you get started it is pretty easy doing it.. i spliced power and ground from the guage pod guages by the shifter ran lines up to the a pillar and then ran lines out into the engine through the computer hole in the firewall... actually the slot just next to the computer hook through.. there is a slit the wires can pass through once you unscrew the cover in the engine side..

[Ross]

My understanding is that the volt gauge is "real." I know that mine reads around 14 volts, and has appropriate dips when you would expect it to (idling with lights and AC on, etc.). Has never dipped below about 12.5, which I think is about as low as it should go unless there is a problem.

[MENINBLK]

My understanding is that the volt gauge is "real." I know that mine reads around 14 volts, and has appropriate dips when you would expect it to (idling with lights and AC on, etc.). Has never dipped below about 12.5, which I think is about as low as it should go unless there is a problem.

Yes the Voltage gauge is real, but if you replace the Oil Pressure Gauge,
the faces of the two Gauges won't match up.
That's why some are replacing the Voltage Gauge.

[RF Overlord]

^^^what Ross and MENINBLK said^^^

It's only the factory oil pressure gauge that's a fake...the factory voltmeter is real, but the factory and the replacement gauge faces, while very close, are not an EXACT match...

wardog, you are correct: the white w/red stripe is the wire from the sender...the ground wire is black, so the remaining wire (I forget the colour) is the hot lead, etc. The rest of the wiring is pretty obvious when you are looking at it...

As far as WHY Ford chose to use a fake OP gauge, that decision was made back in the early 90's, if not before, and applies to all Ford vehicles; none have a working oil pressure gauge. Although Ford hasn't said why officially, it's believed that the reason is due to customer complaints that their oil pressure "is all over the place, there must be something wrong with my motor", etc. So a gauge that always reads right in the middle of the "normal" range puts an end to it...Stupid? Yes. Effective? Also yes.

[djcwardog]

^^^what Ross and MENINBLK said^^^

It's only the factory oil pressure gauge that's a fake...the factory voltmeter is real, but the factory and the replacement gauge faces, while very close, are not an EXACT match...

wardog, you are correct: the white w/red stripe is the wire from the sender...the ground wire is black, so the remaining wire (I forget the colour) is the hot lead, etc. The rest of the wiring is pretty obvious when you are looking at it...

As far as WHY Ford chose to use a fake OP gauge, that decision was made back in the early 90's, if not before, and applies to all Ford vehicles; none have a working oil pressure gauge. Although Ford hasn't said why officially, it's believed that the reason is due to customer complaints that their oil pressure "is all over the place, there must be something wrong with my motor", etc. So a gauge that always reads right in the middle of the "normal" range puts an end to it...Stupid? Yes. Effective? Also yes.

Guys,

Great tips! I feel ready to put those gauges in this weekend - if Jeg's gets the box to me tomorrow. If not, at least I have the KB Dead Pedal to install!

Thanks!