Anybody get a cam sensor code after swapping to the eaton brackets?

[Jamie R.]

I now have the correct vaccum I should so I don't think I have a vacc leak anymore thankfully. My next hurdle is I'm getting a cam sensor code. I had to take out my cobra sensor to use a marauder sensor because y'all's sensor plugs into on the side whereas my cobra sensor plugs in straight out and would hit the alternator if I used it. I got a brand new sensor from ford and now Ive gotten a cam sensor code twice. Curious if anybody else using the custom brackets have had a cam sensor code? The car never had this code before and I had a d1sc procharger on this engine before this eaton swap. I just had idle issues with the PC that I wasn't crazy about and a PC idler went out on me after not even having 3k miles on it so I had a coupe reasons for going away from the PC eventhough the pwr was really good.

Jamie R.

[Jamie R.]

Well I pulled the cam sensor tonight. I'm thinking the wrong sensor was in the box. My ford box 1f3z-6b288-ab then above that number in bigger letters is DU-72. The part number on the sensor that was in the box doesn't match the numbers on the box though. The part number on the sensor is 1f3e-6b288-ab which pulls up as a crankshaft sensor or tpms sensor. I'm thinking the wrong sensor was put in the box. I've never had a cam sensor code until sticking this sensor in for the eaton swap.

Jamie R.

[Jamie R.]

Ok I got another marauder cam sensor and I've gotten the po340 code again. This is two dif sensors now and I get the same cel. Any ideas why I would have this code?

Jamie R.

[Zack]

The connectors and sensors themselves are different IIRC.
You might have to swap the wire orientation.

[fastblackmerc]

P0340 code indicates that a problem was detected in the camshaft position sensor circuit. Since it says circuit, that means the problem could lie in any part of the circuit - the sensor itself, the wiring, or the PCM. Don't just replace the sensor and think that will definitely fix it.

A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
the PCM may have failed
there exists an open circuit
the crankshaft position sensor may have failed.

[Jamie R.]

I googled the code and apparently the alt might need to be changed. So I'm sticking a alt on it. My stock 01 conn does plug into the marauder sensor and the sensors look exact except for the straight out plug in vs side plug in. I really don't think anything is wrong with the wiring cause this problem never existed before.
I'm leaning to the alt being the issue. The car idles smoothly and has no apparent issues other than that code.

[Jamie R.]

Well no change in my po340 code. I put a new alt on and still have the code and typically on third cranking cycle. The car idles very smooth and revs smooth but I still get the code. I didn't remove the harness for this swap, just laid the wires over to the side. I've never had this code before until using the swap brackets and marauder sensor. If nothing changes in a couple days of trying something else then ill have a set of Terry's heavy duty brackets for sale cause ill be going to the term setup with the pulley bridge. A bud of mine used this same setup on his cobra with a marauder sensor and has never had this code so I'm at a loss as to why this code keeps popping up for me.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

Well no change in my po340 code. I put a new alt on and still have the code and typically on third cranking cycle. The car idles very smooth and revs smooth but I still get the code. I didn't remove the harness for this swap, just laid the wires over to the side. I've never had this code before until using the swap brackets and marauder sensor. If nothing changes in a couple days of trying something else then ill have a set of Terry's heavy duty brackets for sale cause ill be going to the term setup with the pulley bridge. A bud of mine used this same setup on his cobra with a marauder sensor and has never had this code so I'm at a loss as to why this code keeps popping up for me.

Jamie R.

Get a wiring diagram sir. It may be as simple as reversing the orientation of the wires.

[Jamie R.]

What wires would you be referring to? With the alt spinning backwards have any of y'all had issue?

[Zack]

What wires would you be referring to? With the alt spinning backwards have any of y'all had issue?

The cam sensor wires. :rolleyes:

[Jamie R.]

Ill try a couple different things in the next couple nights. On the swap brackets, does the alt pulley end up really close to the cam sensor. Mine is so close that I have to shave a little of the plastic off near where the sensor bolts up. Thanks for the info, I'm up for trying anything cause I'm a loss on this.

Jamie R.

[Jamie R.]

Tried a few things still persist with the same po340 code on the third crank. Car idles smooth, cranks fine, revs clean, but the code is consistent on the third crank cycle. Outta ideas.

[Zack]

Have you checked the physical lengths of the sensors?
Are they Oem ford sensors?
Have you verified the wiring is the same between mustangs and marauders?
Have you checked continuity from the connector to the PCM bulkhead connector???

[RF Overlord]

Out on a limb here...you said the alternator pulley was so close to the sensor you had to shave some plastic from it. I don't know how likely this is, but it's possible that much steel so close to the sensor is messing with the magnetic field and distorting the signal, especially if the CPS is a variable-reluctance type sensor.

[lji372]

I believe the op has a cobra not a marauder....

[Jamie R.]

Correct a cobra. The sensors are the same length. I've tried a brand new ford sensor and a cheapy from the parts store and both sensors looked the same except for the ford number on the ford sensor. Another cobra has had this same bracket setup and marauder sensor in the car for maybe 3 yrs without a code so that's why I got the same brackets. No Ive not pulled the wires out to ohm them or check them cause Ive never had this code before until the brackets/alt being so close to the sensor and I never had the harness out or was rough with the wiring as I just unplugged everything and eased over to the side for removal of parts and installation of parts. I have close up pics of the other cobra owners alt/bracket and how close his pulley is to the sensor and he has a touch more clearance than me but still had to shave some of the plastic off.

My new update is I took the alt/bracket out of the car and fired it up maybe 9 times and each time let it idle for a little and revved it slightly. After all the cranking cycles I had the temp up close to operating temp as the gauge was about halfway. I also have a electric water pump on the car so that's why I could crank it up that many times and get close to operating temp. After all that I had no cel for the code!!!!!!! Typically the code would come up on the third cranking cycle. Sooooo I'm guessing this would indicate the old alt and the reman new parts store alt has a bad frequency?? I don't mind buying a new ford oem alt if that would indeed solve my issue. Any ideas? Thanks for the ideas so far!!

Jamie R.

[martyo]

Where in South Georgia are you?

[Jamie R.]

I'm in moultrie. Your about 3 hours north of me if Hiram is near atl. I'm used to not much traffic in south ga small towns, so I avoid atl at all cost lol.

Jamie R.

[martyo]

I'm in moultrie. Your about 3 hours north of me if Hiram is near atl. I'm used to not much traffic in south ga small towns, so I avoid atl at all cost lol.

Jamie R.

We are a good bit NW of the ATL but Moultrie is a hike for sure.

[Jamie R.]

If y'all are north west of atl then yeah y'all are a ways off from me. If this car could be figured out by somebody I'm at the point though that I would drop it off somewhere cause I've worked on it and worked on it for a while now and longer than I ever imagined. Its like its so close now and if I wasn't now messing with the code the car would be at the house and not in my shop.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

Cover the cam sensor in foil and report back

[Jamie R.]

Did that with tin foil fri night and had the code on third crank cycle, I thought it was a kooky idea but I'm glad somebody else had the same idea lol.

Jamie R.

[Jamie R.]

O yeah before shutting the door tonight I ran it about 5 more times and never got the code. So in total tonight I cycled the car on and off about 14 or 15 times and thankfully wasn't greeted with a cel. I'm gonna get both alt's I've used checked out tomorrow. Thanks again for the help and anymore ideas is very welcome!
One question here, how close on the marauder swaps have the atl pulley been to the cam sensor for any of y'all ?

[martyo]

If y'all are north west of atl then yeah y'all are a ways off from me. If this car could be figured out by somebody I'm at the point though that I would drop it off somewhere cause I've worked on it and worked on it for a while now and longer than I ever imagined. Its like its so close now and if I wasn't now messing with the code the car would be at the house and not in my shop.

Jamie R.

Well if you want a hand looking the car over feel free to let me know.

[Jamie R.]

Thanks!! If y'all wasn't so far off it woulda already been there. Ok update to my update. Diode tested both alt's today and just tested for being good in general and both came up good with my old one actually being better. Soooooooo, for my last ditch effort with this bracket setup I ordered a new ford oem alt since the other cobra owner with no issues has a new ford oem on his cobra. I'm gonna put the new ford alt on and clearance the plastic on the sensor as much as his sensor was clearanced.
If I still get the code then I can feel like I tried about everything, and at that point the brackets will be for sale and the term setup will go on. Thanks.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

Thanks!! If y'all wasn't so far off it woulda already been there. Ok update to my update. Diode tested both alt's today and just tested for being good in general and both came up good with my old one actually being better. Soooooooo, for my last ditch effort with this bracket setup I ordered a new ford oem alt since the other cobra owner with no issues has a new ford oem on his cobra. I'm gonna put the new ford alt on and clearance the plastic on the sensor as much as his sensor was clearanced.
If I still get the code then I can feel like I tried about everything, and at that point the brackets will be for sale and the term setup will go on. Thanks.

Jamie R.

With all due respect that is the dumbest idea ever.
Find the problem, fix it and move on.
The termi setup is a nightmare

[Jamie R.]

Well sorry its such a dumb idea but I shouldn't have a cel with that setup. My update is my ford guy said he can't get a new alt. Soooooo, I'm not sure what to do now with it. I've cleared that code prolly 8 times thought last week and I'm tired of messing with it and don't see why the code comes up except when the alt is pulled out of the equation the code goes away. Any ideas cause the term setup is looking more and more likely now that the ford alt isn't available.

[Jamie R.]

Any other ideas? So far cel is there on third crank.
Alt out and cel hasn't been present after about 15 cranks. I'm open to suggestions.

[RF Overlord]

Put the alternator back, but leave the belt off...see if your issue is due to the mass of the alternator in close proximity to the sensor or whether it's due to the spinning magnetic field interfering with the CPS signal. I don't know how that will help you solve the problem, but at least we'll all know what it is... :dunno:

[Jamie R.]

So your wanting me to try leaving the alt on and hooked up but no belt, correct? Wth, I can try that cause I'm at the end here.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

Turn the code off in the tune. Problem solved

[Jamie R.]

Have thought about that also.

[Zack]

Iirc the cam sensor is only looked at during starting. If it starts fine just turn the cel off. The sensor will still function

[Jamie R.]

Gotcha. Its started fine everytime with the code and idled and revved fine. The dl's have looked good also.

[JoeBoomz]

Turn the code off in the tune. Problem solved


I was also going to recommend this if the car runs fine.

[Jamie R.]

I really don't wanna turn that code off in the tune incase I actually needed to know if that code meant something at some point. I tried actually wrapping the sensor in tin foil a little better tonight along with having rubber tape under the tin foil. Code flashed on for me. So alt present I get a code with the alt being in that position in relation to the cam sensor. Without the alt present I never got a code. So I'm going to the 03-04 setup cause Ive worked on this long enough and spent money not needed on another alt that didnt fix it. Another guy suggested to me to try a reman ford alt and my dealer couldn't find one for my car or even a Mach1, not saying a larger dealer up north wouldn't have one but honestly to me that's throwing another 2 some odd bills at trying another one so I didn't check anymore with a larger dealer. I'm done with the brackets and yeah I like the idea of them a lot for not having to swap covers and not having the alt on the blower belt but for me the brackets just didnt work out. My bud with the cobra said he knew somebody that might want my brackets and if that falls through then ill either be listing the brackets for sale on here or if somebody is reading this they can pm me cause they'll be for sale shortly. My set is Terry's heavy duty set with the aux idler. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

You are making a huge mistake.
It has to be something simple

[Jamie R.]

Simple or difficult problem has the same outcome as in nothing has worked for me on this. The only difference in the other cobra and mine is he has a shade more clearance on the same sensor I have and he has a new ford alt. My original alt is a oem ford and I got the code, got a reman parts store alt to try and I got the code, have had a new ford sensor and a cheapy sensor and have had the code. I've clearanced my sensor just as the other cobra owners is clearanced and have the code. If I take either alt out of the car I don't get the code. I feel like in my case its the close proximity of the alt to the sensor and I don't see any way around that. I could grind the alt bracket some to gain a little more clearance but as you know the alt bracket isn't very wide so I wouldn't gain much if any clearance doing that because there isn't a lot to be had from that. I do like the brackets but for me its time to move on, especially after taking the alt out the car and not getting the code because that let me know my wiring is ok as I suspected because I've never had this code until sticking the alt right basically in front of the sensor. I actually had the term setup sitting on the shelf before ever buying the brackets and wanted to use the brackets instead because I really liked the idea behind them. For me the alt deal just didnt work out. If I knew that yes indeed another ford alt would solve this I'd search until I found one but I honestly don't think another alt will help because I've went through two already. Ill be dusting off the term setup now and another bud of mine is already lining up his violin to sing the I told ya so song because he said to use the term setup. I do wish this had worked out but after a little over a week of seeing this code I'm ready to move on. Thanks again for all the idea to try.

[martyo]

Jamie, just come up and visit some time. We can figure it out and then send you back to the gnats!

[Jamie R.]

I hear ya on the gnats lol. I do appreciate the offer and if I thought this could be resolved I'd drop it off somewhere. I just don't see how this can work unless maybe a reman ford or new ford alt will make it work. At this point after all I've tried I just don't care to throw more money at something maybe working. The term setup is going in first of next week or by this week and the car will be driving again and that's what I'm after. Thanks again.

Jamie R.

[Zack]

You are going to realize that this was a simple fix and be kicking yourself later.

A Termi setup absolutely SUCKS in comparison to the brackets, in both looks and complexity of installation.

Have you verified that you extended the alternator wires correctly?

Have you ran the car with the alternator in place, belt on but all wiring disconnected?

Its something simple man...... hundreds of other people have done the exact same setup as you, with no report of this.

You are going about the solution ALL WRONG.

[Jamie R.]

I don't have to extend my alt wires with my car. No I haven't ran the car with the alt on with the belt and the wiring disconnected. Well let me take that back because last night I started the car three times and my batt light was on but I didn't see the code, hooked the belt up because I had forgotten to put the belt back on the pulley on the pass side and first start up I got the code. The code is no doubt from the both alt and as I have stated I feel like its the close proximity to the sensor in my situation. I'm glad nobody else has had this issue and if they do I feel for them cause its pretty frustrating to be so close to being finished but yet so far away. Simple solution or not the fact remains as long as I have that alt right at the sensor with the alt spinning then I get the code, but no alt spinning then I get no code, well not totally verified on the no spinning part but for sure with it out then I get no code. Looks on the term setup is a moot point and more a personal thing, I'm just after a working solution with no code and that setup get the alt away from the sensor so it should be good.

[Zack]

I don't have to extend my alt wires with my car. No I haven't ran the car with the alt on with the belt and the wiring disconnected. Well let me take that back because last night I started the car three times and my batt light was on but I didn't see the code, hooked the belt up because I had forgotten to put the belt back on the pulley on the pass side and first start up I got the code. The code is no doubt from the both alt and as I have stated I feel like its the close proximity to the sensor in my situation. I'm glad nobody else has had this issue and if they do I feel for them cause its pretty frustrating to be so close to being finished but yet so far away. Simple solution or not the fact remains as long as I have that alt right at the sensor with the alt spinning then I get the code, but no alt spinning then I get no code, well not totally verified on the no spinning part but for sure with it out then I get no code. Looks on the term setup is a moot point and more a personal thing, I'm just after a working solution with no code and that setup get the alt away from the sensor so it should be good.

Your car is done with a CEL on. Its not a big deal, welcome to the world of modding.
It starts fine, runs fine and the light can be tuned out.

The alternator in close proximity is not the problem because hundreds of others have done the exact same project.
Just take your time, find the solution and settle down!

Removing cam covers on a mustang is reason enough not to do the termi setup.

[Zack]

Here are some helpful threads.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/309132-p0340-error-code.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/59946-code-p0340-sensor-replaced-check-engine-light-still-off-but-backfiring-help.html
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/p0340-camshaft-position-sensor-circuit-fault.721665/
http://www.newyorkmustangs.com/forums/p0340-code-diagnostic-nightmare-almost-t24591.html

Check Crank Sensor, wiring, and BATTERY.

Seems these mustang guys have excessive AC ripple which throws the code.

[Jamie R.]

Cam covers just have to be lifted slighty and they don't have to come off thankfully. These brackets are coming off cause I'm done with them. If I hear a solution ill try it before pulling the brackets but in my mind I'm out on them. I realize a lot of other people have used the brackets with success, but nothing is perfect and there will always be kink, well I guess that's me. Here's the thing, I've spent maybe a little over 3 bills in just trying parts for this code, if I get another alt to try then ill be a little over 5 bills in just trying to get the brackets to work without a code. Yes I know modding has cels and other things. This isn't my first go around with a stang. This is one code I don't care to delete and sorry but that's just me.

[Jamie R.]

I did just what all those guys did, I bought another alt and it didnt solve my issue, but it is obviously a alt issue cause with it out of the car I don't get a code.

[justbob]

Isn't the only job of the cam sensor to be in sinc +/- a certain parameter with the crank sensor to verify timing? I.E sloppy chains

If so, seems mute to have on a mod motor that the chains last damn near forever in. I'm filled with OCD on just about everything and wouldn't give shutting it off a second thought.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

What Bob said!!!