Stroker Short Block Project with Centri SC

[Jeronimojc]

Please comment, I need all the help I can get. If all goes well, I’ll be starting some out of my league engine work in the not too distant future. Some of you may know I wrecked my black MM (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1354959) in January of this year :bigcry:. I bought the totaled car (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92046) at auction and I’ve been parting it out, but will keep the engine and transmission. In the meantime, I bought a SB MM with the settlement money from the insurer :D. The build will be on the engine from the black MM while I keep the SB as my DD. When done I'll swap engines. My current plan is to install an Aluminator 46X short block (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92037) and a D1SC supercharger. Here’s what I am thinking:

1) RWHP: South of 600 RWHP (EDIT: It used to say North)
2) Engine and Compression: Aluminator 46X Stroked to 5.0L, .02” overbore, 3.75” stroke, 9.6:1 CR
3) Amount of boost: 16 to 18 PSI (EDIT: It used to say North of 20 PSI)
4) Type of Blower: D1SC
5) Pulley Combo: About a 3.55” SC Pulley(EDIT used to say 3.2), 10% OD Innovators West Balancer – 8 rib pulleys (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26572)
6) Tensioner type: 3-bolt tensioner with 98 Cobra timing cover (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93632)
7) Ported Heads? No
8) Cams? 98 Cobra cams advanced to 113/112
9) What intake: Stock
10) Intercooler: Air to Air Treadstone 1035, 50mm BOV from Raceparts Solutions (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1400886&postcount=12)
11) Exhaust Combo: Rear cat delete, Borla Pro XS (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91483)
12) Fuel: 93 Octane, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump, SCT BA-5000, 60 LB fuel injectors

Other mods worth mentioning: The SB already has 4.10 gears and I am pretty sure I’ll install a 3,000 stall converter. I’ll be getting a valve job and plan on installing a cooling mod and a catch can. Rebuilding the transmission may not happen immediately, but it is something I see myself doing when I get my head above water. Any good advice? :beer:

[sailsmen]

A top tier tuner.

[MOTOWN]

Sounds like a nice build , I would go with the 15% OD balancer over the 10% for more belt wrap , and higher boost options.

Your going to need dual fuel pumps , and long tube headers/exhaust

[Jeronimojc]

. Your going to need dual fuel pumps , and long tube headers/exhaust


Hmmm. I was under the impression the Aeromotive 340 would be enough. It does seem it is borderline. Would a BAP be another option?


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[MOTOWN]

Hmmm. I was under the impression the Aeromotive 340 would be enough. It does seem it is borderline. Would a BAP be another option?


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Attempting north of 600 RWHP on a single aeromotive isn't a good idea! your going to want a dual pump , return style setup to get the numbers your after , and stay far away from a :bs: Boost a pump!

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks. I'll do some more reading on this. I don't know what it takes to set up dual pumps and I am not ready to go return style yet.

Here are some pictures of the car in its current condition (the interior is almost gone), some of the parts I have left, and some of the parts I have been buying.
My first priority is to finish parting out the car. I need more space.

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[MOTOWN]

Thanks. I'll do some more reading on this. I don't know what it takes to set up dual pumps and I am not ready to go return style yet.

Here are some pictures of the car in its current condition (the interior is almost gone), some of the parts I have left, and some of the parts I have been buying.
My first priority is to finish parting out the car. I need more space.

3928039281392823928339284


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I can understand you don't want to go return fuel setup yet , but north of 600RWHP is NOT going to happen on a returnless setup with a single aeromotive 340 pump, that's a pipe dream!

[Jeronimojc]

I can understand you don't want to go return fuel setup yet , but north of 600RWHP is NOT going to happen on a returnless setup with a single aeromotive 340 pump, that's a pipe dream!

Ok. Maybe I'll settle with less. There was nothing magical about the 600 number. Once I have the main work done I'll likely be making other improvements.

[99SVT]

You might want to upsize the fuel lines from the tank to rails as well. The evap hard-line is .5" and runs right beside the fuel line, if you're parting out a mm already then you'll have a ready source for it. You can use the stock supply as the return line if you're going return style.

[Zack]

600+ Horsepower and boost greater than 20psi, all on 93 octane?

Keep doing your homework, as you have a lot to learn.

[Zack]

Build your shortblock with 9.0-9.2 compression.
Pulley your blower for 16-18psi
Keep the 6 rib setup
Get a thump belt tensioner
Buy a Walbro 400 pump and convert to return style.
You need headers (didnt see them mentioned)
Use 93 Octane

Enjoy your ultra reliable 550-570rwhp and beat on it all day long.

[sailsmen]

Oil Report
From Blackstone Labs;
All seems well for this engine at 3,269 miles on the oil so far. Wear metals are holding pretty steady compared to the June 2013 sample, and we're not finding any excessive amounts of lead or sodium here. And the viscosity was in the proper range for a 5W/20, so this is a second perfect report in a row!
Nice! Low insolubles are showing excellent oil filtration and good combustion, and a high flashpoint is showing no fuel present in the oil. You could certainly leave this oil in place a little longer -- resample in 2,000 miles to check up on wear. Good report!

No issues to report for the transmission. Metals really haven't changed all that much since the last sample. Iron went up a tad, copper decreased a bit, but these readings are just fine after 9,755 miles onthe oil. We're not finding any excessive solids in the oil (see insolubles at a trace level), and the viscosity
was good for Mercon V. Put another 2,000 miles on this oil and check back. Keep up the good work!

Motorcraft Fluids. 82K miles and 71 1/4 passes w/ 542RWHP 1.667 7.360@92.70, 11.542@121.19.

541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
Kooks Headers & X Pipe
GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
Art Carr Built Trans , Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87
300A, Build 2002, 78 of 7839

Performance History
2,500 Miles – Chip, 4:10 Gears, Under Drive Pullies – 14.274 @ 97.05 MPH
20,257 Miles – KVR Front Rotors, PI Torque Convertor – 13.74 @ 98.33
42,882 Miles – Vortech Super Charger, Water to Air – 12.287 @ 109.74
95,000 Miles - Ford Cobra Reman
177,000 Miles & 300+ Runs Down the 1,320’

[Jeronimojc]

Thank you all for the input. I should point out I would rarely be pushing the car to it's max power. Having said that, you all make good points and I think it is best for me to revise the RWHP and boost target to below 600RWHP and 16-18PSI.


You might want to upsize the fuel lines from the tank to rails as well. The evap hard-line is .5" and runs right beside the fuel line, if you're parting out a mm already then you'll have a ready source for it. You can use the stock supply as the return line if you're going return style.

Honestly, the only reason why I was avoiding going return style was because this project is getting longer and longer. Given that most of you suggest going in this direction I may just have to go for it. You make an excellent point about using parts from my black MM.


Build your shortblock with 9.0-9.2 compression.
Pulley your blower for 16-18psi
Keep the 6 rib setup
Get a thump belt tensioner
Buy a Walbro 400 pump and convert to return style.
You need headers (didnt see them mentioned)
Use 93 Octane

Enjoy your ultra reliable 550-570rwhp and beat on it all day long.

I will likely stay with 9.6 compression as that's what the Aluminator comes with. The Cobra cams will lower the dynamic CR, but not much. Ford advertised dyno results for this block at almost 750HP. That's about 600 RWHP and I assumed this was on pump gas. I also noticed Fordnut was getting 660HP on pump gas and a 9.5 CR. Granted he has other mods and a big bore, but all of this is what led me to my initial conclusions. Having said this, I'll lower the RWHP target and boost, and will probably end up with a return style fuel system.


Sailsmen, I see your
541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on 19 psi. I believe your CR is 8.5:1 and you are using a water methanol injection system. Was this on race fuel also?

[Zack]

Do what I suggested. Keep it at 14 psi if you stay with 9.6:1

[Zack]

I had a t trim on a bone stock junkyard engine back in 04 and made 520rwhp
14psi

[MOTOWN]

Install an Alky control meth kit , and you can run whatever boost you like! 9:6.1 isn't high comp.

[sailsmen]

93 octane. 2 Tunes - Street no Meth and Race w/ Meth.

[Jeronimojc]

I started disconnecting hoses and wires in preparation to remove the engine. The shop manual says to remove the AC compressor, PS pump, and starter motor. Do I really need to remove these items?


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[MOTOWN]

I started disconnecting hoses and wires in preparation to remove the engine. The shop manual says to remove the AC compressor, PS pump, and starter motor. Do I really need to remove these items?


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If the A/C is working and blowing cold air then yes remove the compressor from the motor , if it hasn't worked for a while then you can disconnect the lines at the compressor as its prolly empty anyway , the P/S and the starter motor can remain on the motor , just disconnect the lines and your good to go.

[Zack]

If the A/C is working and blowing cold air then yes remove the compressor from the motor , if it hasn't worked for a while then you can disconnect the lines at the compressor as its prolly empty anyway , the P/S and the starter motor can remain on the motor , just disconnect the lines and your good to go.

Not possible since it bolts to the transmission bellhousing

[Logizyme]

Don't remove them, just unbolt them from the engine/trans and let them hang in the engine bay. Its easier than trying to undo the lines.

[MOTOWN]

Not possible since it bolts to the transmission bellhousing

Just noticed he said Engine , i was thinking engine and trans was being pulled.

[Jeronimojc]

Don't remove them, just unbolt them from the engine/trans and let them hang in the engine bay. Its easier than trying to undo the lines.


I get it. Thanks. I have a number of things to disconnect still. I bought a nylon sling today. I am thinking I may lift the engine as shown below. Will put this on hold for a few days though. Heading to Little Rock tomorrow.


If your NA you could do this. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/18/uqevaraq.jpg


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[Zack]

Wtf is pictured????
The engine harness gets removed easily.

There is not one single connector that can go in the wrong place.

Lol

[Jeronimojc]

Yeah I guess that looks kind funny. Ignore the stuff on the right. I like the simple one nylon sling pick.

I am done with the wiring, I think.


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[Jeronimojc]

I pulled the engine out last night. I didn't mean to, but ended up pulling out the torque converter with it. I thought I followed the ford shop manual instructions pretty well until I noticed the converter coming out. Next I'll be removing the heads and getting a valve job done. Also, I'll start playing with cam degreeing just to start getting a hands on understanding of how to measure the proper angles.

Things are a bit busy at work and I'll be traveling some so this may go a bit slower than I wanted to. Hoping to get rid of the rest of the car soon. Will place an ad in craigslist.

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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/19/ja9uresa.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/19/e7ysu7u7.jpg

Removed the torque convertor and flywheel and put it up on an stand.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/20/yda5u7e7.jpg

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[Zack]

You definitely do not need 8 rib pulleys

[blkZooM]

Not sure if you know this already, but you should pulley for about 20 psi anyways, you are going to lose 2-3 psi because of the longer stroke. The real benefit of the stroker to me is losing those two to three pounds and regaining it back by spinning the blower harder, for you it's great because you are pulleyed for 20 but only seeing 17-18 and you are still on pump gas.

[Jeronimojc]

I am getting back to working on this again. I practiced measuring the intake and exhaust cam centerlines before I remove the heads so I know what to do when I change cams. It was a pretty good exercise.
My measurements were done with everything in its stock form. Turning the crank is a bit abrupt since all valve springs and rocker arms are in place. I'll have to look into how to make things turn smoothly when I turn the crank so I can take more reliable measurements.

One question I have is do I need to install a solid lash adjuster to measure lift? If so, can someone recommend an inexpensive option? I've been placing the dial indicator on top of the valve spring retainer.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/22/duzyga9y.jpg

Here's another picture after I removed the drivers' side head. I am still playing with cams and degreeing. I'll install the cobra 98 cams (and the head) just to get a feel for how much I need to advance. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/22/edupydu2.jpg

Head removed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/22/3ete5ete.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/10/22/ejy9anan.jpg


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[Jeronimojc]

Just got these valve stem seals today. Will get the heads to a machine shop tomorrow for a cleaning and a valve job.


The new block is supposed to show up soon.

40005


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[MOTOWN]

Just got these valve stem seals today. Will get the heads to a machine shop tomorrow for a cleaning and a valve job.


The new block is supposed to show up soon.

40005


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What block did you go with?

[Jeronimojc]

What block did you go with?

After some consideration (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92037) I decided to go with the FRPP 5.0L MODULAR STROKER SHORTBLOCK M-6009-A46X

[Jeronimojc]

Well, the new block was supposed to arrive tomorrow. Today I learned things got delayed again. The ETA now is January 31st! This is like the third time Ford changed the ETA. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow to find out what is going on.

Have any of you guys dealt with anything like this?


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[MOTOWN]

Well, the new block was supposed to arrive tomorrow. Today I learned things got delayed again. The ETA now is January 31st! This is like the third time Ford changed the ETA. I'll make some phone calls tomorrow to find out what is going on.

Have any of you guys dealt with anything like this?


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I think I got the last Aluminator ford built! took maybe a week , ordered it from Summit , shipped directly from Ford.

[Jeronimojc]

I called Ford. They confirmed these blocks are in back order. They looked up my block and said mine is in the middle of the pack. All these orders should be filled by January, so I should get mine sooner. Presumably Ford is waiting for cores.

I am starting to look for other options. I definitely want an aluminum block with forged internals. Stroker is not a must.


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[WhatsUpDOHC]

How about a Teksid?

[Jeronimojc]

How about a Teksid?


Yeah, either a Teksid or a WAP with forged internals would do. I'll keep my eyes open.


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[Logizyme]

Anything wrong with your original block?

Have your machine shop look at it, then put a forged rotating assembly into it.

MMR has a deal for a 750HP capable fully forged 4.75L rotating assembly for $1800

[Jeronimojc]

Anything wrong with your original block?

Have your machine shop look at it, then put a forged rotating assembly into it.

MMR has a deal for a 750HP capable fully forged 4.75L rotating assembly for $1800


Yeah, I saw that assembly today. Looks like a good deal. Nothing wrong with my block except that it is spoken for. I wasn't going to need it. I still have it so we'll see. Also, I really don't know who can do good engine block work in the area. I started looking around though.


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[Zack]

There are shortblocks and engines for sale on mustang sites every single day

[Jeronimojc]

There are shortblocks and engines for sale on mustang sites every single day


Been looking there too. Thanks


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[blkZooM]

You know what, just look into Livernois they can build you a 5.0 stroker which I am pretty sure is a lot stronger and it's actually cheaper or the same price

here is the link if the other one is going to keep on taking forever http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/4.6L-2%7B47%7D4%252dValve-298ci-Pro-Series-Stroker-Shortblock.html

[MOTOWN]

I doubt very seriously that Livernois will come close to MMRs prices , cheap and Livernois cannot coexist!

[Jeronimojc]

I picked up my heads today from the machine shop. The heads look good after cleaning, resurfacing, and a three angle valve job. I am excited to have them back, but bummed I still don't have my short block. Here are a few pics

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40150


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[Jeronimojc]

Here are some pics of the 8-rib pulleys. But for the Innovators West 10% OD balancer, the parts for this conversion are inexpensive.

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Alternator Pulley:
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A/C Pulley:
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Water Pump Pulley (no shoulder). It fits the long neck water pump. Marauders have the short neck pump:
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Power Steering Pump Pulley:
40224


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[MOTOWN]

Those pulleys look familiar! LOL what blower are you planning on using again?

[Jeronimojc]

Those pulleys look familiar! LOL what blower are you planning on using again?


Yeah, thanks to some of you guys for the pointers.

I have a D1SC and two 8-rib pulleys, a 3.2" and a 3.4".


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[Jeronimojc]

My block showed up today! I unpacked it, put it on a stand and got started with assembly.
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Head gaskets installed
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Long neck water pump installed. Heads are just sitting on top, partially secured.
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[HeavyMetalMerc]

very pretty

[Jeronimojc]

Guys, could I get some thoughts on this? I've been researching fuel systems and I am starting to consider going with a return system. I read somewhere else that certain types of fuel lines can leak out a gas smell. Some recommended using PTFE lines from Pegasus Racing. Do any of you have experience with these?

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3 480

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3 481

[HeavyMetalMerc]

why risk it and waste time with fuel lines with possible issues off a wrecked mm when new line would be less expensive, easier to use, and route. than trying to work with old possible damaged lines. my 2 cents. but to me fuel lines seems a place not to risk being "cheap".
my 2 cents

[Jeronimojc]

why risk it and waste time with fuel lines with possible issues off a wrecked mm when new line would be less expensive, easier to use, and route. than trying to work with old possible damaged lines. my 2 cents. but to me fuel lines seems a place not to risk being "cheap".
my 2 cents


Craig, sorry I messed up your response. I changed the question, probably at the same time you were responding. It used to mention pulling fuel lines from the wrecked car. I agree with you. Too much work anyway. I think I'll spend the money on new lines. I just need to learn more about this and what lines/size to buy.


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[Comin' in Hot]

I thought the post got changed, I read it and it's an interesting concept using the evap line because if it's 1/2" OD because that would be equivalent to -8 hose and wouldn't be too hard to put flares on it to change to hose. I wounded if the tube is still available from Ford new? And what it would cost?

[blkZooM]

I wanted to go with them but they were (fuel line) just too much money, so I am going with these guys TechAFX

[justbob]

I ran -8 through the frame with foam insulation.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Jeronimojc]

I thought the post got changed, I read it and it's an interesting concept using the evap line because if it's 1/2" OD because that would be equivalent to -8 hose and wouldn't be too hard to put flares on it to change to hose. I wounded if the tube is still available from Ford new? And what it would cost?


Sorry I caused confusion when I edited the earlier post. Using the evap line from the wrecked car sounded like a good idea until I started looking at the labor involved. I guess it wouldn't be too bad if one were to install a hard line only in the straight section.


I wanted to go with them but they were (fuel line) just too much money, so I am going with these guys TechAFX


blkZooM, I looked TechAFX up. They have various options. Which one are you going with? I noticed their minimum bent radius is at around 5".

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Here is the price for the Pegasus braided PTFE fuel line for quick comparison. Min radius is 1.5" on the -8 AN line.

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[blkZooM]

http://http://www.techafx.com/content/8-blackwrap-ss-braided-teflon%C2%AE-hose-20-length

thats what i plan on going with

I guess if you feel you will need tight bends Pegasus is the route to goI would guess, but I don't see us really needed any crazy bends when routing our fuel lines the right fittings should take care of that

But incase you still would like to go with them read this thread http://http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1037735-Is-Pegasus-Auto-Racing-the-best-place-for-build-it-yourself-BLACK-teflon-fuel-lines&p=14536633

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks! Those links didn't work for me. Maybe too many "http"s at the beginning? I was able to find the thread for the second link though, so here it is. Good info.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1037735-Is-Pegasus-Auto-Racing-the-best-place-for-build-it-yourself-BLACK-teflon-fuel-lines

[MOTOWN]

I have -8 Jegs braided lines works fine , and no fuel smell , thats all you need.

[Jeronimojc]

Going return fuel system is looking more and more likely. I've done a bit of reading, but I still don't understand certain things. Can you guys help me with these questions.


Would I need to change fuel rails? Something about the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) that I don't understand. Or is it that our fuel rails have a "dead end"?

If I do need to change fuel rails, I read that CPR makes rails for the Marauder, but need to be modified and that they push into the injectors causing fuel leaks....
I was thinking maybe using Cobra rails, but it sounded like these have the FRPS on the wrong side (?)

Is it best to modify a fuel tank hat or to buy something already made for a return setup? I am considering the Walbro 400.
Would I wire the new pump in the same manner as the old? It seems it okay to leave the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) connected b/c this gets removed in the tune.
Thanks!

[MOTOWN]

Going return fuel system is looking more and more likely. I've done a bit of reading, but I still don't understand certain things. Can you guys help me with these questions.


Would I need to change fuel rails? Something about the FRPS (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor) that I don't understand. Or is it that our fuel rails have a "dead end"?

If I do need to change fuel rails, I read that CPR makes rails for the Marauder, but need to be modified and that they push into the injectors causing fuel leaks....
I was thinking maybe using Cobra rails, but it sounded like these have the FRPS on the wrong side (?)

Is it best to modify a fuel tank hat or to buy something already made for a return setup? I am considering the Walbro 400.
Would I wire the new pump in the same manner as the old? It seems it okay to leave the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) connected b/c this gets removed in the tune.
Thanks!

Yes you will need new rails , i would go Fore , or Division X (they both have provisions for frps), CPR is out of business , your only option is to mod a fuel hat , no one makes one for our cars , you can't go return and leave the fpdm in place the returnless system is pulse with modulated meaning the fpdm controls the flow of the returnless system by varying the voltage to the pump.

The new pump will be wired directly to the battery via inline fuse , and relays.

[Jeronimojc]

Yes you will need new rails , i would go Fore , or Division X (they both have provisions for frps), CPR is out of business , your only option is to mod a fuel hat , no one makes one for our cars , you can't go return and leave the fpdm in place the returnless system is pulse with modulated meaning the fpdm controls the flow of the returnless system by varying the voltage to the pump.



The new pump will be wired directly to the battery via inline fuse , and relays.


Thanks. Can the FPDM be turned off with the tune?


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[MOTOWN]

Thanks. Can the FPDM be turned off with the tune?


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The fpdm will not be part of the return style setup , there will be nothing to turn off!

[blkZooM]

I have a thread for you too read on keeping the fpdm if going return style I just can't remember the reason. Ill look for it

[Jeronimojc]

It's been a while since I posted in this thread. The wife and I had a nice Christmas present, a baby boy!

40738

Progress on the engine work and swap has been slow, but I am starting to feel like I can pull this off.

This is my DD so I am trying to limit downtime. In the big picture, my current plan is to install the new engine in my SB and break-in the engine (no tune) for a few hundred miles. When I install the engine I'll also install a new stall converter. After ensuring everything works I'll finish the return fuel system, install the centri, get a base tune so I can drive to the tuner and then I'll get the car dyno tuned. This way I can do a proper engine break-in and by doing the work in stages I can ensure everything works before I move on to the next stage. Is it okay to break in the engine with a new converter without having it retuned?

On the fuel side of things, I’ve decided to use part of the donor car evap line as the feed line for the return system on my new setup. I had to cut the pipe in 3 sections and bought a 37 degree flaring tool kit. I actually tried various kits, none of them were very good, but I managed to get a few lines completed. I also decided to do things a little different. I'll have a "dead head" return system in one of the fuel rails. I'll illustrate this and some of the other progress soon.


http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/e8/68/56/e8685688a66b8eccdb5f083d06f461 a3.jpg


Okay, maybe not really a "dead head". Here is what I have in mind for the return fuel system. I know it is out of the norm, but I am willing to give this a shot. My intent here is to simplify things and utilize the stock fuel rails. The feed line from the fuel tank is -8AN. Then it Tees to -6AN lines to feed each fuel rail. The fuel rails will retain the FRPS and what used to be the inlet tube on the passenger side. The inlet tube will be the start of the return line. BTW, the ID of the fuel rail is just short of 3/8" so the two rails should keep up nicely with the -8 line

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 733&stc=1&d=1420877990

EDIT: Fuel Rail Tee
Here are a couple of picture of the fuel rail tee. It worked out pretty well.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/98/5d/6e/985d6e9723ae580ad55a478d62cb77 49.jpg


https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/e3/fb/2f/e3fb2f73ceede8f7f17182ec47065a 2e.jpg

I also started working on the fuel hat. I did what I've seen others here do. One slight difference is I bent outward the aluminum pipe that will serve as a return line. I want to keep the hot fuel returning from the engine away from the pump pick up point if possible.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/cc/6a/4a/cc6a4ac623cb3b6782e67644c027f5 fd.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/e0/44/44/e04444b68038842bc41fa23729837c 70.jpg

UPDATE - Fuel Regulator
I am thinking the fuel regulator will end up here:
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/45/85/af/4585af3915a15e6a43f8dd3b352c7d 90.jpg

Here is a picture of how the engine sits at the moment. I want to align the SC pulleys and make note of the setup. Then I'll remove the SC prior to installing the engine. I still need to clock the SC. Also note the single bolt tensioner on the drivers' side. I haven't figured out how ill secure this

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/e5/ba/cf/e5bacf00eb77daed2cb56c39f14ed7 b4.jpg

[MOTOWN]

Unless its a stock rebuild , it won't start with a stock tune.

[Jeronimojc]

Heads are stock, intake is stock, fuel system and fuel injectors will be stock, MAF and cold air intake is aftermarket, but the car has been tuned accordingly. The only thing that will be different is the stroker block and 8-rib pulley system


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[Jeronimojc]

Cam Degreeing

Here are two links that helped me a lot. The FIRST ONE (http://www.modularheadshop.com/camdegree.aspx)is on cam degreeing in general. The SECOND ONE (http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=124770), courtesy of nasvt, is on how to use the secondary Cloyes adjustable gears. Also, here is a video on how to remove the rockers arms with a screw driver:

mbqKWzhpsHQ

First I installed the Cobra 98 intake cams without degreeing to see where they were at in their stock position. I also attempted to check piston to valve clearance (twice) using modeling clay, but I didn't do a good job first placing the clay and then pealing off the clay and didn't want to install/remove heads and timing components again. I didn't get a good reading here.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/6d/74/d0/6d74d02e9315088a3e708d34e0bb34 3d.jpg

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/c0/2f/fe/c02ffe4016fd6d544654b16d96807b 31.jpg

Then I used Trick Flow adjusting gears (at the crank) mostly to bring the left and right exhaust cams to the same degree and used Cloyes adjustable gears (at the cams) to advance the intake cams.

These are the gear parts I bought.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/66/80/52/66805242bfbab7b675dcffeba32d9d c8.jpg

I ended up with the intake cams at a 113 LC and the exhaust cams at 112. HERE (http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/CamChart/CamChartCandDr3-1.htm) is a good web page to plot your cam positions. This is what mine looks like.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4d/28/60/4d286083d35f74186906b6e150b570 70.jpg

I went cheap with the tools. I used a home made cardboard degreeing wheel and a HF dial indicator. No cam holding tool, crank chuck, etc.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/d6/56/19/d6561929fd7d9fbcd24d5d06c9793b 71.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/69/d9/aa/69d9aa6dbb5f37a57e737c93a7276d 16.jpg

I also changed the timing guides.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/33/0f/4a/330f4a4f17d1a8ebbcae0b3e8e0ca4 9a.jpg




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[Jeronimojc]

Today I started the cooling mod. Below is what I understand is one of the most popular layouts.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/d6/1b/88/d61b88d8185d4627df3a4d91f13982 30.jpg

Removal of the plugs was easy. I noticed some dry epoxy in the holes. Some fell inside the intake. It was easy to vacuum the stuff out.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/6c/b6/0d/6cb60d0127d71cf7b7ce0602febe7d b0.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/6c/e6/a3/6ce6a38f1fd7e20601e4feb3fc288c 9b.jpg


The passenger side fitting wouldn't fit in the hole properly. I had to grind a corner of the intake to make it fit.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/9c/0c/06/9c0c0687d706780bfcbdd00bd5f16d a7.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/f2/b2/8e/f2b28efc29761eaef29248f6e70c06 15.jpg

Now that both fittings fit properly I wonder if RTV is sufficient to hold these things in place while I am still messing with things. I think I'll just finish this after I am done with the intake and fuel rail work.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/48/c7/d7/48c7d71ba791168b4dfc9f651fdb60 38.jpg


UPDATE:
I added some small fasteners to hold the cooling mod fittings in their proper location so I don't bump the fittings out of place as I move hoses and other things during engine installation. It felt like RTV or silicone alone wasn't going to do the job.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/88/68/39/8868396f85ac96f39db568524b9c93 23.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/7f/c0/34/7fc03478236dc1570557eaab3fd349 19.jpg

[Jeronimojc]

Power Pipe.

As with most things, I didn't know how to go about the inlet pipe and filter. A few of you opened my eyes to how important this part is to a good centri setup. I did a bit of reading and noticed a few other people that saw big HP increases after removing their inlet piping/filter obstructions at the dyno.

So I am thinking of going with a short 5" 30-degree bend pipe and a relatively good size filter. For this I'll need a 5" to 4" reducing elbow and an insert to fit the elbow on the 3.75" Procharger inlet.

With the 30 degree bend I am hoping to be able to turn the filter away from the front of the car to gain more space for a bigger filter. The pictures below from BigM460 help illustrate, except that he has a straight 5" pipe.

Ah yes, I almost forgot. I understand the first order of business is to install the fan upside down to create space for all this stuff. Correct?

Thoughts?


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 743&d=1421009601

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 742&d=1421009601

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 752&stc=1&d=1421256184

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 753&stc=1&d=1421256184

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40 754&stc=1&d=1421256184

UDPATE:
I bought the silicone 5" to 4" reducing elbow and the 30 degree 5" pipe. I was able to clamp the elbow to the 3.75" Procharger inlet without the 4" to 3.75" reducer shown above. Here is what the setup looks like.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/86/86/8d/86868dc83e2f4fa4169c6e971bba77 e3.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/73/65/ff/7365ffde454cb975bf3394e425f5d0 7c.jpg

[Zack]

Unless its a stock rebuild , it won't start with a stock tune.

Yes it will.



The passenger side fitting wouldn't fit in the hole properly. I had to grind a corner of the intake to make it fit.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/9c/0c/06/9c0c0687d706780bfcbdd00bd5f16d a7.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/f2/b2/8e/f2b28efc29761eaef29248f6e70c06 15.jpg


Did I make that? If so I apologize. I can't recall installing the 90 degree fitting in the center of the freeze plug, unless it was a really long time ago.
The T fitting normally goes to the drivers side, due to clearance reasons.

[Jeronimojc]

Yes it will.

I am so relieved to see it will.

Regarding the fitting, it was such a small conflict, not a big deal. I am testing to see if I can keep the Tee fitting on the passenger side for hose routing reasons. We'll see how it goes.

[MOTOWN]

I am so relieved to see it will.

Regarding the fitting, it was such a small conflict, not a big deal. I am testing to see if I can keep the Tee fitting on the passenger side for hose routing reasons. We'll see how it goes.

Be relieved when it actually happens! On a stock tune ill believe it when I see it.

[Zack]

Be relieved when it actually happens! On a stock tune ill believe it when I see it.

A few posts up he stated he would be starting the engine and breaking it in without a blower.


And OP, there is absolutely NO NEED to break the engine in. NONE

[Jeronimojc]

Be relieved when it actually happens! On a stock tune ill believe it when I see it.


You may be right, I'll be relieved when it runs.

What is it in your opinion that would cause an issue? By understanding the potential issue, I may be able to advert it. The fuel, intake, MAF, etc will be the same as in my current tune, which by the way is not stock.

As far as starting the engine without the blower, it is also so I can do the work in phases and test each phase before going to the next. I am trying to avoid having an issue at some point and not knowing wether it was fuel related, blower/MAF related, etc.

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[Zack]

^^^^If I was as methodical as you i'd die of anticipation, literally.

[MOTOWN]

You may be right, I'll be relieved when it runs.

What is it in your opinion that would cause an issue? By understanding the potential issue, I may be able to advert it. The fuel, intake, MAF, etc will be the same as in my current tune, which by the way is not stock.

As far as starting the engine without the blower, it is also so I can do the work in phases and test each phase before going to the next. I am trying to avoid having an issue at some point and not knowing wether it was fuel related, blower/MAF related, etc.

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Here is my suggestion to you get your motor , blower , and fuel system done , and installed!

After you have everything hooked up properly take your car to a competent qualified tuner , and let them handle the tuning portion of it , i think your making this more difficult than it needs to be.

[justbob]

I haven't measured my available space yet, but this is the filter I've been looking at.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Greddy/intakes/air_filters/Airinx/9245
Or I'll just run the squirrel catcher it came with and add some finer mesh screening.


Builder Of Badassery

[Jeronimojc]

Here is my suggestion to you get your motor , blower , and fuel system done , and installed!



After you have everything hooked up properly take your car to a competent qualified tuner , and let them handle the tuning portion of it , i think your making this more difficult than it needs to be.


That was plan A. Maybe you guys have a point. The logistics of getting the engine and SC all done in one weekend for a noob like me got me thinking of different options. We'll see.


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[Jeronimojc]

I haven't measured my available space yet, but this is the filter I've been looking at.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Greddy/intakes/air_filters/Airinx/9245
Or I'll just run the squirrel catcher it came with and add some finer mesh screening.


Builder Of Badassery


Ah the mushroom filters. I thought those were not good at all. Are they making good ones now? The idea is good, but I think the product and quality wasn't there.


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[Jeronimojc]

8-Rib Pulley Setup Test Fit

For the most part changing to an 8-rib pulley setup has been easy. The exception has been the alternator pulley. First, I spent way too much time looking for this silly little socket to remove the clutch pulley.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/4b/b8/54/4bb854941054dfa79b6617ab78dc8e c5.jpg

The biggest issue, though, is the alternator 8-rib pulley has a longer bore and sits farther away from the alternator than the 6-rib pulley, by more than one rib. No wonder why some people can't ever seem to get the alignment right.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/8c/ca/9a/8cca9a77f9d618ed4f34cfce82ee60 38.jpg

In the pictures below, the supercharger pulley has been aligned with the crank pulley. The 6-rib alternator pulley aligns nicely with the blower pulley (and the crank pulley), but the 8-rib pulley is too far away from the alternator.

6-Rib, alignment is good!
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/d5/fc/03/d5fc032d01db3f7c31c3191ed4570a 68.jpg

8-Rib, alignment is off!
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/88/8f/dc/888fdcc6baa4d7ec94ca3550854e08 b5.jpg


I could move the blower pulley away from the timing cover to align with the alternator and have the belt slightly angled, but I think the best thing to do avoid belt issues is to machine the 8-rib pulley to match the 6-rib hub.




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[justbob]

Or shave a tad of meat off the alt. ears?


Builder Of Badassery

[Zack]

There is a different 8 rib pulley offered with the correct offset.
Don't ask me the application though, I have no clue.

[Jeronimojc]

Or shave a tad of meat off the alt. ears?


It's an option, but I may also need to mod the alternator bracket.

What do you guys think of removing the shoulder from the 6-rib and leaving the 6-rib pulley instead? This way I also get to keep the clutch function (no squealing pig at WOT).


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[Zack]

It's an option, but I may also need to mod the alternator bracket.

What do you guys think of removing the shoulder from the 6-rib and leaving the 6-rib pulley instead? This way I also get to keep the clutch function (no squealing pig at WOT)


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You can have a 6 rib belt on an 8 rib pulley, but not vice versa.

You will not hear any belt squeal with a blower

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks Zack.

It looks like I'll shave a bit of meat from the alternator as Justbob suggested.


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[justbob]

I've never had to deal with your issues and perhaps there is a much better way. I've just never been afraid of "caressing" things to fit.. Especially a cheap item like an Alt.


Builder Of Badassery

[Jeronimojc]

Stall Converter and Flexplate

I ended up buying a 2800 to 3000 RPM PI stall converter. It showed up today. I also bought the 8-bolt flexplate that @Justbob (thanks) found in ebay. It came from a 5.4L Navigator. It has the 11 3/8" bolt pattern and 164 teeth. It fits nicely with the stall converter.


I am curious to see if the 5.4L flexplate is heavier than our stock flexplate.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/18/2b/63/182b636628bcfbe4451425d13097a7 68.jpg



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[Jeronimojc]

I picked up the valve covers from the powder coater earlier today. I went with candy red to match some of the other accents in my SB.

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/b3/84/08/b38408e6c16db44b0678ecb69d6207 93.jpg

I placed the covers on the heads just to get a feel of what things will look like.
Unfortunately the lighting there made the covers look pinkish. I am sure it will look better in the engine bay.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/eb/51/8c/eb518c524ff8faf397570fa71907d7 f3.jpg




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[MOTOWN]

Why is your tensioner on the driver's side of the motor?

[Jeronimojc]

Lol. That does look funny. I was trying to figure out how to add the "Zack" idler and happen to have an old single bolt tensioner.


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[Jeffonebuck]

Congrats on the New Addition ! Are you gonna let him teethe on Heater Hose !http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/22/7c46902a61dba7269c9d83edf928a4 8e.jpg


Every bad situation is a blues song waiting to happen.

[Jeronimojc]

Lol. Thanks! He was just helping me carry things.


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[Jeronimojc]

After thinking some more about hot fuel with a daily driver and the setup I had in mind I am back again thinking about going with a "dead head" fuel return system.

It seems hot fuel causes some of the good stuff in the fuel to evaporate. This ultimate reduces the fuel's octane levels. Aside from proper tuning, If I can further reduce the chances of having engine knock by avoiding hot fuel, then why not do that.

It should be obvious, but I was surprised to notice how quickly and how hot the fuel rails get. Even more surprising was seeing how the fuel regulator absorbs so much heat. I think I edited an earlier post explaining that I had installed the regulator next to the passenger side head, without plumbing it, and that thing got really hot after just a short drive. I later moved the regulator to the location shown below and it helped significantly, but I may move it one more time.

Here is a schematic of how I think I'll end up plumbing to go "dead head".

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/92/68/e4/9268e4bb0e01a240b190b8cd96e0d5 72.jpg

Here is a picture of the regulator in its current position. BTW, I'll have to switch to a -8AN regulator if I end up going "dead head".

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/70/8b/7e/708b7e1814d7c34180a36b43fe896b 5a.jpg


I added a few pics to post #65, but here's what the fuel rails look like with the 'tee' modification to feed them in parallel.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/98/5d/6e/985d6e9723ae580ad55a478d62cb77 49.jpg

[HeavyMetalMerc]

looks nice and progress being made

[Jeronimojc]

Getting Ready for Engine Swap

I am still waiting for a set of valve cover gaskets. Ordered the wrong one the first time. Once I install the new gasket set I can finish bolting the valve covers and I think that's all.

I bought a 96-98 Cobra (6-rib) serpentine belt and routed it like this. It fit nicely. I'll keep this for a few hundred miles until I install the supercharger and an 8-rib belt.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/e6/3a/d2/e63ad2473a60c3ef81c673ffa957ec bd.jpg

I also installed NGK 4177 (TR6) spark plugs. Funny I was reading some posts last night about how much torque, anti-seize or no anti-seize, and I was starting to get freaked out by all the people who at some point or another were 'afraid' of not doing this right. One thing I'd like to learn to do is "read" the spark plugs. I suspect I'll be changing a few spark plugs as I learn this so I decided to not use anti-seize. Also, I may go to colder plugs later. We'll see.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/c8/df/56/c8df56f8673d53bc94d7293b869c11 59.jpg

Here are a few shots of the engine without the supercharger. I plugged much of the wiring harness and some of the hoses. I realize I may have to disconnect a few things later on, but that's fine. This helped me remember where things go.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/14/f8/7e/14f87e1fcd57f83f11f436c2b757ef 32.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/24/b0/c5/24b0c56bfa1970261abd8400f701eb 74.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/3f/33/8a/3f338ac6b54f072ce645828ff2dba7 c5.jpg

[lji372]

my .02 says upgrade the tensioner

add an idler pulley between the alternator and the p/s (thank zack :2thumbs: )

[Jeronimojc]

How do you install the idler pulley between the alternator and the p/s pump?

Tried finding a used Thump tensioner. Looks like I'll have to buy a new one.

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[justbob]

With a Jerry special pulley stand off.

All the cool kids have one. :)


Builder Of Badassery

[Jeronimojc]

Ahh. I want to be cool.

Jerry would you PM me a price?

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[Zack]

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/Marauder%20Repairs/2012-01-24_20-31-52_636.jpg

You will sling belts without the extra pulley.

NAPA part # 36101

[justbob]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/28/15baaf1392ea3090f76ecd627e3075 be.jpg


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

What bolt did you use Zack?

Edit: never mind. Looking through my junk I see you just used a longer cover bolt.

Edit edit: no you didn't..

Builder Of Badassery

[Zack]

Is was definitely a mod motor bolt.
I had it laying around. Sorry, it was years ago.

[justbob]

Is was definitely a mod motor bolt.
I had it laying around. Sorry, it was years ago.


Cool, I should have one or tree of those myself then. Thanks Bud.


Builder Of Badassery

[lji372]

It's a long son of a gun! Went to local mechanic and dug through his junk to find one :D

[Zack]

Might be an AC bolt? I really don't remember.
I may have obtained from the junkyard.

[Jeronimojc]

M8 x 1.25 threaded rod. I bought a 18" section and have been cutting as needed.


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[Jeronimojc]

Question; I know this sounds silly, but would the cooling mod still be as effective without capping the redundant COT line to the heater core (red line below)? I am guessing water would flow out of the head in both directions (the new cooling lines, and the COT). I wouldn't want to cause some of the flow to just go around in circles by leaving the red line open.




http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/d6/1b/88/d61b88d8185d4627df3a4d91f13982 30.jpg

[Logizyme]

^Exactly how I plan to do mine - this is how the 2v is setup on panthers.

Also kinda curious to thoughs on it.

[Jeronimojc]

^Exactly how I plan to do mine - this is how the 2v is setup on panthers.

Also kinda curious to thoughs on it.


Meaning you intend to cap the COT as shown in the diagram or leave it open so water flows out from both directions?


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[Logizyme]

Sorry. I will be deleting the heater nipple on the COT, and connecting my cooling mod fittings directly to the heater core - removing the entire red section.

[lji372]

Sorry. I will be deleting the heater nipple on the COT, and connecting my cooling mod fittings directly to the heater core - removing the entire red section.

this is what i did

note to the nay sayers: heat works just fine:banana2:

[Jeronimojc]

Keeping this thread updated. I took Monday of with the idea of swapping engines over a three day weekend. I was able to drive the car to work today so I am pretty stocked I pulled this off. I wouldn't have done it without a bunch of you guys bailing me out though and without the goog Lord who not only bumped the engine into alignment with the transmission for me, but kindly waited until stupid me pulled my fingers out of a bad situation after trying to feel if the flexplate was binding things up.

Here's the weekend swap thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=96703) and below few pics. The larger displacement, Cobra 98 cams, stall converter and rear cat delete did something alright. The car feels more raw. More like a machine and less like nice sedan.

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/47/7d/ae/477dae211005509e13123c2a22b3ef 16.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/8a/07/f0/8a07f08c788e660a04831160825494 c9.jpg

http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/38/2e/db/382edba6db4e7fc7e0c7af219254fe 7f.jpg

And the finish product.
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/e4/65/72/e465723952b4f0239af29c450dd7db 0b.jpg

[BigM460]

Looks good! Those cam covers look very nice!

How is the converter with the tune you have? Like or a bit to get used to?

[Jeronimojc]

A tune may be good, but it isn't too bad. It is a bit abrupt during cruising with a light tap of the gas. The car feels like it shifts and it is ready to keep going with the slightest amount of throttle, but when I let off the gas it I feels like a "come on man, I thought we were going".

The car no longer has a low end slow build up, probably more to do with the larger displacement and the advanced intake cams than a stall converter thing though.

One more thing, the car loves going uphill!! No Stall converter issues there. I find myself looking for routes with hills to climb. Lol


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[Zack]

Your load tables are probably way off due to the increased displacement. Needs a tune for sure.

[Jeronimojc]

Well, I was going to wait until after the blower install, but maybe I'll enjoy the NA setup a bit longer, in which case I'll get a tune.

Assuming I stay NA a little longer, would it make sense to tune the car with the other parts I already bought such as the return fuel system, larger injectors, etc.? The idea would be to see the max potential of this setup in NA form (not that I expect much), but also test the parts, some of which are used. Or would it be best to keep these other things stock?


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[lji372]

Well, I was going to wait until after the blower install, but maybe I'll enjoy the NA setup a bit longer, in which case I'll get a tune.

Assuming I stay NA a little longer, would it make sense to tune the car with the other parts I already bought such as the return fuel system, larger injectors, etc.? The idea would be to see the max potential of this setup in NA form (not that I expect much), but also test the parts, some if which are used. Or would it be best to keep these other things stock?


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imho i would just install it all instEAD of paying for tunes over and over.............

[rauder88]

imho i would just install it all instEAD of paying for tunes over and over.............

^^^^^^^ I see what you did there^^^^^^^^

I agree, it would be stupid to pay for 2 dynos, especially if you have everything to install the Pro Charger. Get 'er done any pay for 1 tune.

[justbob]

Install everything and the blower Friday night, tune it Saturday, and blow the tires off Sunday...


Builder Of Badassery

[Jeronimojc]

Lol. I like how you think! My garage pass will be revoked indefinitely if I keep spending too much time on the car. Definitely not happening in the next two weekends.


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[justbob]

Lol. I like how you think! My garage pass will be revoked indefinitely if I keep spending too much time on the car. Definitely not happening in the next two weekends.


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Trust me, after enough time out there she will start to enjoy the quiet without you. My old lady eggs me on to mod whatever may be out there. Don't care if it's the car, lawn mower, or polishing the tool box or the neighbors wife, just go do something! :)

26+ years and three kids buys you that luxury!


Builder Of Badassery

[Jeronimojc]

Good point, maybe she'll kick me out to the garage soon. I'll see if I can help make that happen.


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[Invader]

My wife is like, "Honey, did you order more parts in?" And I've only been working on cosmetics. I can only imagine the look on her face when there is an 5.0 S/C Aluminator Block sitting in our living room... :lol:


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[Invader]

Looks Awesome! BTW JC....


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[HeavyMetalMerc]

sweet progress

[Jeronimojc]

Looks Awesome! BTW JC....


sweet progress

Thanks guys!

I finally started purchasing the last few parts (intercooler, piping, BOV, etc). Mounting the intercooler was actually much easier than I had expected. It fit very nicely behind the bumper, but had no idea what I was going to do to support it. I was trying to avoid welding of any kind. I ended up finding a couple of Simpson StrongTie 4x4 framing brackets that required a bit of moding and worked out fairly well. In fact, one of the holes in the bracket lined up perfectly with a frame bolt on the car. All I had to do was enlarge the hole, and use the existing bolt and nut! I used another hole on the bracket to screw a sheet metal screw to the frame of the car. Here are a few pictures.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/92/83/36/928336e5d21c984c28da8b6dad5dea 72.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/9b/67/59/9b6759fbff68880b9d6db10cf31374 f1.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/be/59/00/be590015b5ddbb96d8ef20a7fc80af 85.jpg


https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/a1/e2/f5/a1e2f5d492e9db7a0ce918776c127b 5c.jpg

Next I started playing with intercooler piping. The CXRacing piping kit I bought comes with two ‘U’ shaped pipes. I had hoped the distance between the legs of these 'U' sections was large enough to go from the intercooler to the engine bay side of the radiator. No such luck. It tried heating and bending one of the ‘U’ sections to open it up, but didn’t get too far. So I ended up cutting the ‘U’ to fit. Below are some pictures of the passenger side. I think I’ll end up welding the BOV fitting to the large 90 degree elbow that wraps around the radiator frame.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/ed/0a/d9/ed0ad9d3dd82fc6a80a48526edd1be d3.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/5a/40/23/5a4023c7ab1a3dbbf7894487393646 e2.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/c4/56/b9/c456b9223faf34dcbe712500d105c6 61.jpg

Speaking of BOVs, I decided to go with a 38.5mm Tial QRJ (got it for under $193). This is really a bypass valve. This newer model has a larger outlet than the Tial QR. Most likely I’ll end up connecting a hose to the outlet side only to muffle the sound. Here is a pic of the QRJ (left) compared to the ‘Q’, which is the 50mm BOV valve.

http://timmyspec.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/P1100542.jpg


I also relocated the coolant reservoir to make room for the blower.

Next I worked on flipping the stock fan 180 degrees, also to make room for the blower. I ended up making some aluminum mounting brackets. However, even after doing this I wasn’t happy with the result. Part of the problem is I am using a larger elbow and larger inlet piping, than most use. So I ended up trimming a bit of extra meat from the fan housing. Yeah, it doesn’t look good, but it will all be covered by the blower and piping and I can always get a different fan later. For now my goal is to make things work.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/39/11/72/3911722338758551759c463c31f207 21.jpg

Then of course I took the blower and piping apart so I can drive the car to work. This is the beauty of working on your dd.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/45/9d/de/459ddeeb88e826bc607a1688b788d5 48.jpg

[Lowndex]

Good pictures. I can only guess how excited you must be.

[cer0413]

Looks good

[SIZEMOREMK]

The build is looking good man, can't wait to hear how it runs!

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks guys.

I forgot to mention I also installed Jerry's COT risers. Below are a few pics.

Risers on the left. The item on the right is for installing an additional idler pulley.
http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/1200x/a1/33/6c/a1336c9466d7baeb4faa7846a69718 49.jpg

COT riser installed.
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/3d/c8/cc/3dc8cc9164bbeef4ddac2dd815d40f b5.jpg

COT bracket spacer
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/1200x/05/b4/31/05b4318da5b7d02ca0ea9f85ac2b0e 61.jpg





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[justbob]

Lookin good!


Builder Of Badassery

[lji372]

They actually work :confused: saweeeeeeeet!!!! :banana2: :banana2:

[Zack]

Please tell me the strong-ties are coming off. PLEASE.

10 bucks says people will PM you wanting exact measurements of the pipe you cut for the intercooler.

[Jeronimojc]

Didn't mean to torture anyone with amateur mods, but it is was bound to happen.

'U' pipe cut down the middle would work just fine.


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[lji372]

So......what are the exact measurements of the pipe you cut for the intercooler??

[Jeronimojc]

U r supposed to ask via PM!


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[rauder88]

Looking good! Keeping a close eye on this for my Teksid project.