PDA

View Full Version : J-Mod Difference



montazch
03-10-2015, 09:30 AM
Is there any difference in the J-Mod procedure between the 4R70W and the 4R75W? Thanks.

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 09:37 AM
Is there any difference in the J-Mod procedure between the 4R70W and the 4R75W? Thanks.

No, but there is an updated procedure for the 4R75W.

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 09:39 AM
Here is the latest

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEVr_LHf9UVlUAMeElnIlQ; _ylu=X3oDMTEzanRlZmFmBHNlYwNzc gRwb3MDMgRjb2xvA2JmMQR2dGlkA1l IUzAwMV8x/RV=2/RE=1426034251/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.crownvic.n et%2ftech%2f4R70Wnotes.pdf/RK=0/RS=72v1mqwfLdUuM9NBwXhM9p1xmpc-

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 09:40 AM
J-Mod video on Youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbIAKfhrdV0

Logizyme
03-10-2015, 09:48 AM
No real difference, some of the holes may already be enlarged but other than that.

I would suggest that you do not remove the accumulator springs.

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 10:07 AM
No real difference, some of the holes may already be enlarged but other than that.

I would suggest that you do not remove the accumulator springs.

Do the full J-Mod and remove the spring. You can always reinstall it.

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 10:14 AM
I'd recommend getting #8SP from here: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm

"The Superior "Super Tough Plate" saves time and money by preventing costly No-Go's and comebacks in the Late 2000-up 4R70W/4R75W transmissions by helping to eliminate plate cracking and cross leaks caused by constant pounding from the 2-3 Accumulator Piston Spring Retainer on the stock separator plate. Made in the USA, the Superior "Super Tough Plate" is zinc coated, extra thick and is the perfect replacement for the stock valve body separator plate used in this popular Ford application. This plate has stock size holes and is .058" thick. Cost $26.00"

Might be a good time to either add a drain plug to the stock pan or install an aftermarket deep pan with drain plug.

In addition to Mercon V fluid, you'll need two separator plate gaskets.

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 10:14 AM
I'd add an additional tranny cooler also.

loud2004marquis
03-10-2015, 10:30 AM
+1 on removing the springs!

montazch
03-10-2015, 10:42 AM
I'd add an additional tranny cooler also.

Any suggestions for a tranny cooler kit? Thanks!

fastblackmerc
03-10-2015, 12:22 PM
Any suggestions for a tranny cooler kit? Thanks!

Same website has them as does most FLAPS.

Suggest you install it in series with the factory cooler.

Outlet from factory cooler goes to the inlet of the aftermarket cooler, outlet from aftermarket cooler goes to tranny.

From the website:
"Transmission Cooling: You must have a transmission cooler in your radiator regardless of what someone has told you for the transmission to last. Auxiliary coolers are just that, in addition to. Water cools 32 times better (faster) than air always, period. The transmission fluid comes directly from the torque converter at a much higher temperature than the water in your radiator and is cooled to the water temperature fast. Then it goes to the auxiliary cooler to be cooled far below the water temperature. If you don't need a cooler in your radiator why does GM spend all that money doing so? If you wanted to cool a red hot piece of steel fast would you stick it in water or air, see the point. For the best cooling you need both water and air cooling for the transmission to be cooler than the motor."

Mine
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Tranny%20Cooler/ThruGrill.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/Tranny%20Cooler/ThruGrill.jpg.html)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/Tranny%20Cooler/Above.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/Tranny%20Cooler/Above.jpg.html)

MyBlackBeasts
03-10-2015, 12:25 PM
I would suggest that you do not remove the accumulator springs.

Oh, no! No springs is the best! Way fun! :D

I love it! :burn::burnout:

ctrlraven
03-10-2015, 02:18 PM
If you have a tune with any of the shift pressures turned up, put them to Zero after the Jmod is done then adjust to your liking.

I removed the springs on mine and had to back the shift pressure down cause it was too hard even with a PI torque converter. 5% on the 1-2 was enough for mine to chirp and spin the wheels at the 1-2 shift and make the speedo jump about 10 mph. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-jw3jvbcRI
1-jw3jvbcRI

Green96
03-10-2015, 06:05 PM
The 1-2 spring is a personal preference. I have not j-modded the Marauder, but I did on my old 96 t-bird. I did NOT pull the spring and I was extremely happy that I didn't. I personally wanted fast shifts, but not hard shifts. I rode in several cars without the springs and I really disliked the feel under light acceleration. It was just plain harsh. It was ok at WOT, but not for normal driving.

Even with the spring in mine would chirp the tires from 1-2 at WOT, but under light acceleration it was just very quick but normal shifts.

Ask yourself how you want it to drive. Neither answer is wrong, it is personal preference as I mentioned above.

justbob
03-10-2015, 10:14 PM
Remove them and be done.


Builder Of Badassery

88grandmarq
03-11-2015, 07:31 PM
I high recommend you replace several shift valves with Sonnax units and replace the factory separator plate with the thicker, Superior Tuff plate. DO NOT remove any of the accumulator springs.

drill hole 2 to 7/64
drill hole 4&5 to 7/64
drill hole 6 to 5/32
drill hole 9 &11 to 1/8
hole 10 is optional, but I usually drill to 3/32

1W7Z-7D100-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA

FT-105-D

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2402 - OD regulator 76948-29K

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2398 - pressure regulator 76948-09

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2393- boost valve 76948-02K

superior Tuff plate K092

fastblackmerc
03-12-2015, 07:25 AM
I high recommend you replace several shift valves with Sonnax units and replace the factory separator plate with the thicker, Superior Tuff plate. DO NOT remove any of the accumulator springs.

drill hole 2 to 7/64
drill hole 4&5 to 7/64
drill hole 6 to 5/32
drill hole 9 &11 to 1/8
hole 10 is optional, but I usually drill to 3/32

1W7Z-7D100-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA

FT-105-D

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2402 - OD regulator 76948-29K

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2398 - pressure regulator 76948-09

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2393- boost valve 76948-02K

superior Tuff plate K092
Why not remove the spring(s)?

Will be following you on FB.

88grandmarq
03-12-2015, 08:50 AM
In my experience, removing the springs makes the shifting excessively harsh, borderline violent. Installing the Sonnax pieces and the thicker Superior Tuff plate, Then drilling the holes in the separator plate to the correct size to match the power of the engine results in firm, crisp and consistent shifting with out beating up the driver or the vehicle.

Also, deleting the 2-3 accumulator spring can cause the accumulator piston to travel too far and become wedged in the bore, which cause direct clutch pressure to exhaust straight to the pump. This results in a pressure loss to the direct clutch and it gets burned in short order.

fastblackmerc
03-12-2015, 08:52 AM
In my experience, removing the springs makes the shifting excessively harsh, borderline violent. Installing the Sonnax pieces and the thicker Superior Tuff plate, Then drilling the holes in the separator plate to the correct size to match the power of the engine results in firm, crisp and consistent shifting with out beating up the driver or the vehicle.

Also, deleting the 2-3 accumulator spring can cause the accumulator piston to travel too far and become wedged in the bore, which cause direct clutch pressure to exhaust straight to the pump. This results in a pressure loss to the direct clutch and it gets burned in short order.

OK, looks like I'll be replacing the springs and getting the new Sonnax pieces. already have the Tuff Plate.

Marauderjack
03-12-2015, 02:15 PM
I removed the 1-2 spring and it was AWFUL HARSH!!:eek:

I installed a lighter Mustang spring and it helped a lot!!:beer:

Logizyme
03-12-2015, 02:26 PM
I high recommend you replace several shift valves with Sonnax units and replace the factory separator plate with the thicker, Superior Tuff plate. DO NOT remove any of the accumulator springs.

drill hole 2 to 7/64
drill hole 4&5 to 7/64
drill hole 6 to 5/32
drill hole 9 &11 to 1/8
hole 10 is optional, but I usually drill to 3/32

1W7Z-7D100-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA

FT-105-D

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2402 - OD regulator 76948-29K

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2398 - pressure regulator 76948-09

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2393- boost valve 76948-02K

superior Tuff plate K092

This. Those of us who have been part of the JMOD of 10+ units recognize that spring removal is excessive, and if you pay closer attention to other aspects - such as installing sonnax replacement valves - you can get a much more balanced shift.

I find that everything else besides the spring removal makes shift agressiveness be dependent on throttle/speed, and that spring removal is just plain aggressive all the time - which for me ment spilling my coffee every morning when cruising to work.

I would suggest that you also do the Sonnax OD servo pin kit. a traditional JMOD does little/nothing to help the 3-4 shift, especially on a 03+. By installing the OD regulator and Servo pin kit from sonnax you can really balance out the shifts so that 3-4 feels positive and firm - but not harsh. The Servo pin kit also includes a washer that can be installed to preload the pin spring to allow you to choose how aggressive you want the shift.

Personally I have gotten the best shifts by installing all of the sonnax parts listed by 88grandmarq with a softer pressure spring, softer 1-2 and softer 2-3 upper, softer large OD servo spring, sonnax OD piston with preload washer, and slightly below traditional JMOD hole size.

With my upcomming Eaton swap I may need to tone down the 1-2 a touch more to gain a little more traction.

justbob
03-12-2015, 08:51 PM
Some of you act like your 80...

I've got bulged discs and it was never once an issue. Turn the line pressure down if it's that bad. My car behaved just fine cruising or WOT with them removed. Even the wife didn't mind beating on it!




Builder Of Badassery

lji372
03-12-2015, 09:30 PM
Some of you act like your 80...

I've got bulged discs and it was never once an issue. Turn the line pressure down if it's that bad. My car behaved just fine cruising or WOT with them removed. Even the wife didn't mind beating on it!




Builder Of Badassery

But how did she like the transmission shifts? :banana2:

justbob
03-13-2015, 01:28 PM
But how did she like the transmission shifts? :banana2:


Lol. Truthfully speaking she liked the open header vibrations the most she said.


Builder Of Badassery

88grandmarq
03-13-2015, 09:03 PM
Personally I have gotten the best shifts by installing all of the sonnax parts listed by 88grandmarq with a softer pressure spring, softer 1-2 and softer 2-3 upper, softer large OD servo spring, sonnax OD piston with preload washer, and slightly below traditional JMOD hole size.



Agreed... for stock engines, I drill hole 2 with a #38 bit (.1015"), combined with the sonnax valves and the shifts are perfect. you feel the shift, but it doesn't break your back (or spill your coffee) ;)