PDA

View Full Version : Killer Chiller install.



chief455
05-16-2015, 02:29 PM
DONE!!

Here is the first thing to do when installing a Marauder unit;
remove the factory orifice tube from the evaporator core at the firewall. Look for debris = signs your system needs repair.
Second - DO NOT use the factory orifice tube! Leave it out. The chiller has an orifice tube installed in the pre assembled fitting.
This is the tube Joe designed the system to work with. On the phone, he thought by replacing the supplied hoses, the factory orifice tube was eliminated. Nope. It's not in the hose, it is in the evaporator core.

After finding debris in the chiller and factory orifice tubes, I replaced my compressor, accumulator and orifice tube as all A/C write ups suggest. With a flush and fresh charge per killer chiller instructions, I had great cabin A/C but no supercharger coolant going on.
That's when the realization a factory orifice tube can't be in place with the chillers orifice tube.
Once removed, my super charger coolant temp dropped to ~55* on a 75*) day. Engine coolant temp ~200*
My IAT that was ~130* at idle dropped to ~110*
Upon test drive, IAT dropped to ~100-105* at light throttle, and to ~95* under more throttle.
I suspect this is cool intake air working, not the chiller.

Summary: install killer chiller exactly per instructions.
Check factory orifice tube to determine A/C system is good before recharging.
Don't use two orifice tubes - leave the factory one out, and utilize the one supplied with the chiller.
With zero insulation used on hoses during the install, expect ~20* drop in coolant and idle IAT temps.
I ran the A/C on automatic (not MAX A/C) as a test, and IAT stayed cool. In motion, full throttle boosted pass, my data logged IAT at 94*

I plan on insulation of hoses, increasing reservoir capacity, and relocating my air filter to reduce heat from under hood temps. As Joe clearly states in his instructions: "an open element filter in the stock (Cobra) location can and will negate the cooling effects the chiller provides".
While not entirely accurate, my findings support that moving air instantly reduces IAT, and closer to reaching the chilled coolant potential.

CWright
05-16-2015, 03:02 PM
Great write up buddy!!! Thanks for the info!

camelgrundle
05-16-2015, 03:14 PM
Good write up! Looks great.

burt ragio
05-16-2015, 03:16 PM
Nice clean installation. Where do you plan on relocating the air filter ? With out replacing all good parts mentioned isn't there a way to filter contaminants ? Dumb question but does the AC have to be on in the cabin for the killer chiller to work ?

RubberCtyRauder
05-16-2015, 03:19 PM
Also, how much does it take away from the cabin A/C?..I like my A/C when it is hot/humid out.

Logizyme
05-16-2015, 03:57 PM
Awesome.

I'm wondering if the IC coolant coming out of the intercooler are reaching temps over ambient, which would make the typical heat exchanger a negative effect.

I'm betting a good insulation and ideal CAI would help you drop another 5-10*

chief455
05-16-2015, 04:09 PM
Nice clean installation. Where do you plan on relocating the air filter ? With out replacing all good parts mentioned isn't there a way to filter contaminants ? Dumb question but does the AC have to be on in the cabin for the killer chiller to work ?
On my system, yes, A/C in cabin is in line with chiller. He sells a 'race' system which has a bypass valve to run A/C only to the chiller. It's just a 3 way valve, pretty much.

Also, how much does it take away from the cabin A/C?..I like my A/C when it is hot/humid out.
In my car, nothing. 45* temp at dash vent. Like you, I want my car to be a car, not a race car ;)

Awesome.

I'm wondering if the IC coolant coming out of the intercooler are reaching temps over ambient, which would make the typical heat exchanger a negative effect.

I'm betting a good insulation and ideal CAI would help you drop another 5-10*
Other serious guys eliminate the heat exchanger as a negative heat soaker. I agree that 5-10* more could be had with fully insulating the chiller system, and really need the intake air away from heat.


As a test, I turned off the A/C and waited for IAT to reach ~115* at idle. Then I did a full pull, IAT climbed to ~125*, then cruised along down to ~115* again.
Turned on A/C and the IAT quickly went down to ~100-105* cruising, 95* under throttle.