Engine code

[Mr. Man]

Well after spending time beating on the SBs' gas tank it finally started. It sat for about a year now. I put a little new gas in it as I still need to replace the pump. Car idled fine and revved OK as well. I didn't take it out on the road yet as I got a code. 0190, reader said it was a fuel rail pressure issue. Is this the fuel pressure sensor or a different issue.

Thanks for any help. :)

[fastblackmerc]

Well after spending time beating on the SBs' gas tank it finally started. It sat for about a year now. I put a little new gas in it as I still need to replace the pump. Car idled fine and revved OK as well. I didn't take it out on the road yet as I got a code. 0190, reader said it was a fuel rail pressure issue. Is this the fuel pressure sensor or a different issue.

Thanks for any help. :)

Probably got the code because there was no residual pressure in the lines.

I'd clear the code and see if it returns.

[Mr. Man]

Probably got the code because there was no residual pressure in the lines.

I'd clear the code and see if it returns.
I'll give it a try.

[Mr. Man]

Cleared the code and it didn't come back so that must have been the answer. Thanks Jim.

Took it for a short spin and it ran OK. Brakes are a bit spongy and the right rear caliper is dragging...again. Look into that another day.

[martyo]

Why did you let the car sit undriven for a year?

[Mr. Man]

Why did you let the car sit undriven for a year?
It failed inspection last June. We hemmed and hawed for a while about the Zack tune. It used to pass with no problems then someone, probably in California, decided on new rules and now it no longer passes. I looked into having the dealer put the OEM tune back in it but wasn't confident in their ability after speaking with them.

I put it, actually both, in storage for the Winter and just periodically start them. The SB started in Mid-Winter no muss, no fuss but when I went to start it in April she no go. I made the mistake of not filling the tank and I think that's what caused the problem. I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in it the other day. Today got my old self down on the ground today and whacked the tank a couple of times. That must have jiggled what ever loose and she started right up w/ the code which once cleared seems to be staying off.

As you may remember we finally bought a tuner from you and if the weather holds I'll help Ms. D put the tune in for inspection. She may as well learn how to do it. God willing, it goes through inspection then we'll put the performance tune in you provided and Bob's your Uncle! :banana:

Lesson learned, if your going to park them fill them up with gas.

[chief455]

Actually, I've learned to NOT fill them for extended storage.
Crap gas today loses it's fire power and just goes bad.
I leave a 1/4 tank with stabilizer, then either drain the tank before starting, or go straight to the gas tation and fill up with fresh 93 octane.

[Ms. Denmark]

Thanks Mr. Man. :lovies: It was great to see my SB back on the road last evening, even if only for a short test drive. Now you'll show me how to load the tunes and then stand back....:coolman:

Next stop--> pass inspection, then --> 4:10's then--> :burnout:

[cat in the hat]

Actually, I've learned to NOT fill them for extended storage.
Crap gas today loses it's fire power and just goes bad.
I leave a 1/4 tank with stabilizer, then either drain the tank before starting, or go straight to the gas tation and fill up with fresh 93 octane.

Same here. I run it down to a 1/4 tank with Sta-Bil in the fall, and add a 5 gal. jerry can of fresh 93 in the spring (or as needed).

[Mr. Man]

Actually, I've learned to NOT fill them for extended storage.
Crap gas today loses it's fire power and just goes bad.
I leave a 1/4 tank with stabilizer, then either drain the tank before starting, or go straight to the gas station and fill up with fresh 93 octane.


Same here. I run it down to a 1/4 tank with Sta-Bil in the fall, and add a 5 gal. Jerry can of fresh 93 in the spring (or as needed).
There was discussion here a while back about how to fill or not and someone said by not filling the tank it is more prone to condensate and put water into the tank.

I haven't had any issues with degraded gas in anything I use so I haven't experimented with Stabil.

[cat in the hat]

There was discussion here a while back about how to fill or not and someone said by not filling the tank it is more prone to condensate and put water into the tank.

I haven't had any issues with degraded gas in anything I use so I haven't experimented with Stabil.

Neither have I, but I do it anyway. I guess it's a belt-and-suspenders thing, maybe because they make such a huge deal out of it for winterizing boats :dunno:

I can see where you might get more condensation in a less-full tank but that doesn't seem to bother anything either, and it seems unavoidable unless you have gas all the way to the filler neck IMO.

[chief455]

There was discussion here a while back about how to fill or not and someone said by not filling the tank it is more prone to condensate and put water into the tank.
I have not personally seens this, but if condensation were in my 1/4 tank, after being filled with fresh 93, and driven mildly for a day or two it should be gone.
I haven't had any issues with degraded gas in anything I use so I haven't experimented with Stabil.
I have had sour, vinegar gas after a year of sitting, that won't even light on fire, get's in the entire system and eats seals, deposits in injectors etc.. the great white wintery north...:shake:.
do what makes you feel comfortable

[Bluerauder]

do what makes you feel comfortable

I have had gas in my lawnmower go bad after sitting for the fall & winter without Stabil in it. My mower usually starts with one pull (rarely two pulls). If it is not even trying to start on the 3rd pull, I check the plug wire connection. If that is OK, then gas is the next suspect. Combustion = Fuel + Air + Spark. Draining a pint or less of gas is a hell of a lot easier than several gallons in a car. I put Stabil in my MM and make sure that it gets exercised every 2 weeks or so in order to avoid any possible problems.

Issues with condensation really depend a lot on where you live. The problem is more prevalent in high humidity areas. All air contains moisture..... even in the desert. Water will condense out of the air when temperatures drop. This is why your lawn is wet in the morning from the "dew". When it gets a bit colder outside, we call it "frost". The same thing that happens on your grass is happening inside your gas tank. More air (or more empty tank) means the potential for more water to accumulate in the gas. Multiple warm-cool cycles just multiplies the amount of water. Pressurized systems are less susceptible but is at some risk nevertheless.

Water is denser than gas, so it will settle to the bottom of the tank. Generally, that is where the pump pick-up is located. If there is enough water settled in the tank, then you will suck primarily water (or a gas-water mix) when you try to start the car. Water will not burn. Bad gas will not burn well and sometimes not at all. STABIL is a cheap preventative measure against bad gas. Frequent exercise and a full tank during prolonged storage minimizes the water problem.

In a high humidity area where the car won't be used/exercised for a long time, a 3/4 tank is best IMHO if draining the tank and refilling with new in the Spring is not an option.

[fastblackmerc]

I have had gas in my lawnmower go bad after sitting for the fall & winter without Stabil in it. My mower usually starts with one pull (rarely two pulls). If it is not even trying to start on the 3rd pull, I check the plug wire connection. If that is OK, then gas is the next suspect. Combustion = Fuel + Air + Spark. Draining a pint or less of gas is a hell of a lot easier than several gallons in a car. I put Stabil in my MM and make sure that it gets exercised every 2 weeks or so in order to avoid any possible problems.

Issues with condensation really depend a lot on where you live. The problem is more prevalent in high humidity areas. All air contains moisture..... even in the desert. Water will condense out of the air when temperatures drop. This is why your lawn is wet in the morning from the "dew". When it gets a bit colder outside, we call it "frost". The same thing that happens on your grass is happening inside your gas tank. More air (or more empty tank) means the potential for more water to accumulate in the gas. Multiple warm-cool cycles just multiplies the amount of water. Pressurized systems are less susceptible but is at some risk nevertheless.

Water is denser than gas, so it will settle to the bottom of the tank. Generally, that is where the pump pick-up is located. If there is enough water settled in the tank, then you will suck primarily water (or a gas-water mix) when you try to start the car. Water will not burn. Bad gas will not burn well and sometimes not at all. STABIL is a cheap preventative measure against bad gas. Frequent exercise and a full tank during prolonged storage minimizes the water problem.

In a high humidity area where the car won't be used/exercised for a long time, a 3/4 tank is best IMHO if draining the tank and refilling with new in the Spring is not an option.

Thank you Mr. Peabody....... J/K :D

[justbob]

Pumps fail with filled or empty tanks. A lot of the time caused by no use/prolonged sitting. Since you can't remove the pump with over a third or so of gas in the tank without taking a ignitable stink bath, I highly suggest you hold off on the whole filling thing.


Builder Of Badassery

[chief455]

Pumps fail with filled or empty tanks. A lot of the time caused by no use/prolonged sitting. Since you can't remove the pump with over a third or so of gas in the tank without taking a ignitable stink bath, I highly suggest you hold off on the whole filling thing.


Builder Of Badassery
Another reason to leave 1/4 tank, IMHO. Also having a drain plug when possible.
Still, to each their own on this one.

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Can you return the tune to stock and drive it around?

There is a link(aka cycle) for what to do to return to stock codes.

Dean and I have to do this every two years. It's a PITA but driving with the stock tune makes you want the modified tune more.

Or, get a classic/limited use registration (>6K miles/year) and forget about it.

I can also provide you with the information about the above.

[cat in the hat]

Can you return the tune to stock and drive it around?

There is a link(aka cycle) for what to do to return to stock codes.

Dean and I have to do this every two years. It's a PITA but driving with the stock tune makes you want the modified tune more.

Or, get a classic/limited use registration (>6K miles/year) and forget about it.

I can also provide you with the information about the above.

Wow, thanks, I never heard of this. I'm absolutely going to look into that ! :beer:

[Mr. Man]

Can you return the tune to stock and drive it around?

There is a link(aka cycle) for what to do to return to stock codes.

Dean and I have to do this every two years. It's a PITA but driving with the stock tune makes you want the modified tune more.

Or, get a classic/limited use registration (>6K miles/year) and forget about it.

I can also provide you with the information about the above.The OEM tune is in Zacks computer. I have a tune now I'm hoping will get it through inspection. Basically need all the monitors to work.

I'd like to get the Triangle inspection sticker but you need collectors insurance and you can only get that if you have a secured garage, and yes they do come out and check.