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Thread: stainless works

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Maryland
    Age
    39
    Posts
    140

    Re: stainless works

    Quote Originally Posted by Zack
    Listen to me as its as close to the gospel as you can get:

    When installing longtubes, DO NOT replace the mufflers at the same time!

    Longtubes and stock Mufflers sound so damn good there is NO REASON TO CHANGE THEM!
    +1



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Conneticut U.S.A.
    Age
    59
    Posts
    2,730
    Quote Originally Posted by Dj1 View Post
    +1



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    +2

    I have plenty asking what I did for mufflers after installing the long tube's and high flow cat's. None of them think or believe they are stock until the look for themselves.


    Bought Her for my 40th B Day in August of 2004 @ Crest Lincoln Mercury
    Assembled 12/17/2003
    #1183 of a build of 3214
    and is #379 of 1237

    Link to Mod's and car:

    http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...o=view&id=8832

    Link to Pictures of the Kids/Animals, Cars I have built or a hand in building as well as cars and trucks I have owned.

    http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...php?albumid=16

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Near Knoxville TN
    Age
    67
    Posts
    10,720
    Quote Originally Posted by babbage View Post
    Well? What was the N/A difference in the long tubes?
    What was the difference before and after dynotune when you finally did get one?
    I don't remember the exact difference after bolt-on, I believe I posted it about 7 years ago. I think it was around 20 hp improvement at the peak, but it was even more improvement at lower rpm's. I didn't get it tuned until after I had made several other changes.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    4,373

    Re: stainless works

    Well? What was the N/A difference in the long tubes?

    What was the difference before and after dynotune when you finally did get one?


    I don't remember the exact difference after bolt-on, I believe I posted it about 7 years ago. I think it was around 20 hp improvement at the peak, but it was even more improvement at lower rpm's. I didn't get it tuned until after I had made several other changes.
    Thanks. I will probably do a "quiet" catback first, then add headers.


    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
    2021 F150 XLT Super Crew short bed - no chrome! - 3.5 Ecoboost 400hp/500tq - 36 Gal tank (600 miles) - 4x4 FX4 Offroad + Max Tow - 3.55 Locker - 10 Speed - Pro Power 2kva - 24mpg @ 80 Ford is still the best.
    03 300A - Number 1727
    - Super Touring - 10k in the best upgrades - 13.8@99 N/A - SOLD
    - STAP was so much fun, loved meeting you all and racing.



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