Proper way to service your transmission

[RF Overlord]

http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/App...aspx?Section=1

[Ruger407]

I wish to change my MM fluid and trans "filter" any help on a Wix # for the filter, 5qts of type V Merc fluid is this correct thanks Dale

[RF Overlord]

I just gave you the link to the WIX filters site above...

[88grandmarq]

from my experience... use ONLY motorcraft transmission filters. Rock auto has the best price on the FT105. Order the Dorman pan with the drain plug while you're at it.

[Svashtar]

I could have sworn I had had my tranny serviced since, but the last I can find is from 52K miles ago!

And the guy did a bunch of other work on my car at the time, so I didn't notice at first how much he charged me, but he nailed me on the labor cost.

I change my oil with full synthetic every 5-6K, but was thinking every 25-30K for the trans and obviously missed a service.

After this long I'd feel better with a new filter and I'll try it myself for once.

So FT105 filter, BUT since I have an Art Carr deep pan, I'll need what, 8 quarts of MerconV instead of 5?

Q: is there supposed to be a magnet in the filter pan? I don't have the OEM pan, that and the stock diff cover got replaced and I didn't keep them for some reason, so if so need to check the new pan for one.

Thanks.

Norm




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RF Overlord]

There is a magnet in the stock stamped-steel pan, but obviously won't work in an aluminium pan, unless you glue it.

As for the filter, if your guy already replaced it once, don't even bother. The purpose of the factory filter is to catch break-in wear materials, which are pretty much done by 10-15k from new. Replacing the filter is fine, but unnecessary after that first time.

[Svashtar]

There is a magnet in the stock stamped-steel pan, but obviously won't work in an aluminium pan, unless you glue it.

As for the filter, if your guy already replaced it once, don't even bother. The purpose of the factory filter is to catch break-in wear materials, which are pretty much done by 10-15k from new. Replacing the filter is fine, but unnecessary after that first time.

Thanks RF; no excuses, I was busy working, and though I did some of the early work myself I delegated way too much work I could have done to a shop, and just paid. I got a fair charge for the gears and driveshaft and TC, but looking at some other 10-11 year old invoices I cringe at how much I forked out for some basic services like this. Lesson learned.

I'm going to assume that the Carr deep pan will probably take an extra couple quarts, and I'm also betting the drain plug already has a magnet on it, although I never looked. If not I have some rare earth magnets scavenged from hard drives and will add one of those.

I'll leave the gasket and filter alone then, thanks. Considering the $ I dumped into this trans, waiting 50k was really stupid; from now on I'll drain and refill every third oil change.

I'm taking the pan off this time only to check for a magnet if one isn't on the plug, otherwise it shouldn't have to come off again.

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daniel.drives]

Hey guys, speaking of transmission service:

I bought my car at 177k, currently at 209k, as near as I can tell, original transmission. I have the deep pan with drain plug, but since I've been tracking it (since I've had the SCT tuner to monitor trans temps), I've noticed it regularly gets to 270F, as high as 275 before blinking the OD light at me. I do track with OD turned off, it seems that that has an effect of preventing torque converter lockup, which generates more heat. I've been replacing the 7 qts with fresh valvoline mercon V every two race days, and it hasn't failed me yet. Still shifts smoothly with no drama. Guess I'm just lucky.

I do have a trans cooler ready to go on, just need to sort out plumbing and we'll be ready to rock.

[Prospect62]

Hey guys, speaking of transmission service:

I bought my car at 177k, currently at 209k, as near as I can tell, original transmission. I have the deep pan with drain plug, but since I've been tracking it (since I've had the SCT tuner to monitor trans temps), I've noticed it regularly gets to 270F, as high as 275 before blinking the OD light at me. I do track with OD turned off, it seems that that has an effect of preventing torque converter lockup, which generates more heat. I've been replacing the 7 qts with fresh valvoline mercon V every two race days, and it hasn't failed me yet. Still shifts smoothly with no drama. Guess I'm just lucky.

I do have a trans cooler ready to go on, just need to sort out plumbing and we'll be ready to rock.

I'm no expert but that seems almost insanely high.

[blazen71]

If you still have the factory cooler setup, it has a thermostatically controlled valve that opens at 180 deg. You shouldn't see too much higher that that, except on your track days.

[baloneyhomie]

270 seems very high. My old hightop express van with the 4L60e only ever got as high as 230F before I installed a cooler of any kind of it. The transmission on the car never gets over 190F when I drive it pretty hard on Blood Mountain. Someone else is probably more qualified than I to say, but I believe installing a cooler inline is fine on these cars.