Spark Plug Change Instructional

[paparauder]

I use a rubber hose on the spark plug end to start them. Less chance of cross threading.

[paparauder]

I am not so sure about never seize on the spark plug threads.
That is how the plug grounds...

[MyBlackBeasts]

I am not so sure about never seize on the spark plug threads.
That is how the plug grounds...

Anti-sieze promotes electrical connectivity. The paste is made with aluminum or copper particles (depending on the AS type). It's why it works so well to protect grounds and coat battery connections.

ALWAYS skim coat plug threads going in to an aluminum head. Otherwise the corrosion created by dis-similar metal contact will seize the plug in the head and when you try to remove the head threads will come out with the plug.

Also compensate the torque value of the plug for the use of AS on these heads that FOMOCO thought were well designed with only half a thread for the plug (sarcasm intended) to prevent rolling the thread out of the head.

[daniel.drives]

Thanks for the good writeup! knocked this out yesterday. Can't say the old ones were in bad shape but there were a couple where the gap was undersized

[crouse]

I didn't read everyone's comments, but I use a locking extension on my spark plug wrench. And I add a little dielectric grease in the end of the spark plug terminal.

[paparauder]

I recommend to NEVER EVER start a spark plug with a ratchet!! Get yourself a piece of rubber hose, i.e. vacuum etc, feed it on the plug and then start it. Once it is properly threaded in you can use the ratchet assembly.

[crouse]

I'm not using the ratchet to get the sparkplug started, I'm using the extension to get it started.

[BUCKWHEAT]

Changed mine yesterday, so reading this was timely. I have the long, like 8" socket, so restarting new plug is easy. I gap down to .035. The S/C engine seems to like less gap. I use my elbow to not over-tighten plugs. I use the NGK TR6 4177, and change every year.