Linelock

[carfixer]

I recently bought Nitto DR's and they need to be heated up at the track. I really hate power braking my car to get a proper burnout because you heat up the brakes as well. The obvious solution is Linelock.

For those that don't know what it is, it is a solenoid valve that is put in line with your front brake hydraulics. You energize the solenoid, pump the brakes a couple of times and release the brake pedal. As long as the solenoid is energized, the front brakes will remain applied. Now you just mash the go pedal and smoke up the rear tires. Release the button when your done anialating the tires.

I went with the Hurst roll control. It is the most expensive but is also the best. Instead of buying an installation kit, I made up my own. All I needed was (2) 3/16 female 1/8 npt male brass fittings, 1 brass 1/8 npt plug, a 3/16 brake line union and (2) 18" sections of 3/16 brake line.

Our cars use a front/rear split brake system which makes the installation simple. Our cars use metric brake lines (4.5mm) with a bubble flair instead of the normal 3/16 with double flair. The 3/16 line is the same diameter as the 4.5 mm line. The fitting into the master cylinder is metric though.

First I mounted the solenoid to the left mounting stud of the master cylinder. This required me to hog out one of the holes on the solenoid bracket.

Next I removed the brake line between the MC (master cylinder) and HCU (hydraulic control unit). It is the line on the rear port of the master cylinder. I cut the flair off the line and removed the fitting. I installed a standard 3/16 line fitting on the line and made a double flair on the line. Installed that line to the HCU but left the MC side off. I put the fitting that came off of the factory line, on a 3/16 line and put a bubble flair on it. This required me to buy a bubble flair kit ($85).

I installed the 2 brass 3/16 female 1/8npt male fittings onto the linelock solenoid. I installed the new line with the factory fitting from the master cylinder to the linelock solenoid. I then ran a brake line from the other port of the linelock to the factory line with a 3/16 brake line union. Basically I put the linelock in "series" with the brake line. There are 2 extra ports on the linelock solenoid the got plugged off with the 1/8npt plugs. Bleed the brakes and the hydraulic portion of the install is done.

The linelock came with a button that you would mount on the shaft of a stick shifter. This won't work with our cars. I decided to use my O/D cancel button to operate it and relocated the O/D cancel function to a button I mounted next to the oil pressure guage. The O/D cancel button is not made to handle the current from the solenoid, so I used a relay. This thing works great. I find myself using it to hold the car at red lights and taking my foot off the brake pedal, since the button is so conveniently located. I'm really please with the way it came out.

Here's a couple of pics:

[rocknrod]

Looks sweet.

I bet your burnouts are awesome too. Especially with that Trilogy.

[Smokie]

The word Master mechanic certainly applies to you my friend, looks factory just like all the work you do does.

[shakes_26]

must have..............

[Bradley G]

It's getting harder and harder ,... Hanging around with you guys!

[Bootlegger]

Looks Great, anxious to see you use it at Bradenton...

[Tallboy]

Looks Great, anxious to see you use it at Bradenton...

Speakin' of using stuff at the track...

Nope. Not gonna do it.

[DEFYANT]

I have been thinkin about one of these set ups! Very nice.

Just dont hit that O/D button at cruising speeds. That set up will not work for me. My dumbazz would flip the wrong button at 55mph.

[BillyGman]

Just dont hit that O/D button at cruising speeds. That set up will not work for me. My dumbazz would flip the wrong button at 55mph.

The Line-Lock button won't apply any brake pressure unless it's applied when your foot is on the brake pedal. If your foot is on the brake pedal, then the line lock button being held down after the brake pedal is released will hold the fluid pressure on the front brakes, but the fluid pressure has to be there to begin with via use of the brake pedal. my point is, that if you accidentally hit the Line-Lock button while the brake pedal is NOT being applied, then nothing will happen at all. Yes, I have Line-Lock on my Marauder too.

[mpearce]

So when you arm the line lock, you can hold rpm's at the line without the use of the break pedal. When the lights on the tree drop...what do you do? Pop the button on your shifter, and slam the pedal to the floor?

-Mat

[BillyGman]

So when you arm the line lock, you can hold rpm's at the line without the use of the break pedal. When the lights on the tree drop...what do you do? Pop the button on your shifter, and slam the pedal to the floor?

-Mat

With the Line-Lock button that comes with the kit, all as you have to do is hold it, and then let it go when the treee drops, but I'm not sure how Claude has it set-up with that factory shifter button. I didn't connect it the same way that he has. I took the rubber sleeve that the Line-Lock buton comes attached to, and slid it over the lever for the tilt steering wheel. It fit perfectly.

I guess we will have to wait until Claude chimes in again.

[Bootlegger]

Speakin' of using stuff at the track...

Nope. Not gonna do it.

Close, Very very Close....

[mpearce]

all you have to do is hold it, and then let it go when the treee drops.

Does this process provide a benefit over the usual way of launching? Faster reaction time maybe? Because all you've got to do is release a button? Just curious.

-Mat

[CRUZTAKER]

I don't use mine at the tree. Just in the burnout box, or in certain intersections with way too many buzzing Hondas.

With AOD's we only need to wind up at tree enough to NOT break the rear tires loose, (the track officials frown on that), therefore I have found no need to use the button at the tree. Two feet work fine. Besides, my button isn't located as creatively as Claudes, and I need TWO hands on the wheel at launch.

[BillyGman]

I don't use mine at the tree. Just in the burnout box, or in certain intersections with way too many buzzing Hondas.

With AOD's we only need to wind up at tree enough to NOT break the rear tires loose, (the track officials frown on that), therefore I have found no need to use the button at the tree. Two feet work fine. Besides, my button isn't located as creatively as Claudes, and I need TWO hands on the wheel at launch.

I don't need two hands on the wheel during the launch since my car hooks really good with the Nitto drag radials, but I agree with everything Cruztaker said. With an automatic, there probably isn't any big advantage to using the Line-Lock at the starting line, and I don't use it for that either. I installed mine more for doing monster burnouts on the street than for using it at the track.