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  #31  
Old 12-23-2018, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailsmen View Post
Per K&N*

"That brings us to size.



Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting

.75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.





A = effective filtering area

CID = cubic inch displacement

RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power



Example: A 281 CID Ford engine with a horsepower peak at 6,500 rpm.



281CI X 6,500RPM / 20,839 = 87.65





If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length."



The panel filter would need to be 9.4"X9.4".



The filter I have is 127.25" in Effective Filtering Area.



*Note: changed to reflect MM application.


The cubic inch displacement you show doesn’t include the additional amount being pushed in by a power adder and leaves out many many variables such as cams, porting, throttle bodies, and exhaust.

Either way, I trust dyno numbers more than physics with so many variables. Besides, K&N is in the market to sell larger filters..

Can you achieve a few more numbers with more airflow? Yes. But more concern should be focused on length of run and ease of flow. I remember Brian picked up over 80 RWHP just by going to a smooth welded pipe vs his corrugated hose on his 3.4 Whipple.

In the OP’s case he upsized the filter but added an elbow to make it work. I only picked up another 103 RWHP in my race tune running 110 fuel, upping the boost from 20 to 26, and swapping the baby filter for a bird catcher. But then again, we had to shut her down just before 6,000 RPMS due to clutch slippage. The graph with both tunes was reaching the moon quickly before the clutch said no..


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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
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  #32  
Old 12-23-2018, 01:11 PM
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To clarify it's K&N's formula.

I was use it as a base line not to go under.

The past several years at Car Shows I have seen a trend towards minuscule filters.
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2019, 01:07 PM
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I've been planning on metco arms both sets. But what else have you guys in the sub 11s and drag tires done to your rear suspension?

I still dd mine three seasons a yr. But I'm concerned about the oem airbags outback and launching the car hard at the track.
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  #34  
Old 01-01-2019, 01:28 PM
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I think Sherm and Chris are still using bags and they are into the 10's. Perhaps a stiffer track specific shock.
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2019, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
I think Sherm and Chris are still using bags and they are into the 10's. Perhaps a stiffer track specific shock.


Not only that but I believe they are breaking daylight under the skinnies with stock control arms and stock brakes as well!


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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2019, 04:23 PM
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Stock arms in the rear?

My bushings are worn. 230k on my chassis. Figured I replace with metco.

Frt brakes getting upgraded though. Slowing down from 120 mph at the track I frequent cooks my frts bad.
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  #37  
Old 01-01-2019, 04:53 PM
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Only thing I changed was the control arms.
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  #38  
Old 01-01-2019, 08:57 PM
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I’m sure Bob means stock “front” control arms and brakes, or not?
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  #39  
Old 01-02-2019, 09:28 PM
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First time back to the track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
I’m sure Bob means stock “front” control arms and brakes, or not?


Nope!

I seen the car at Marauderville 9 and couldn’t believe it.


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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
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  #40  
Old 01-03-2019, 09:27 AM
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We have pullled 1.41 60's on the bone stock rear suspension with just a 28x10 Hoosier Drag tire.

We now have the CHE arms and have been best of 1.39 at 4200 lbs. Stock suspension works fine.
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  #41  
Old 01-03-2019, 09:35 AM
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I had already planned for n replacing arms as my bushing are all worn anyway, but glad to hear the bags can take it.

Any specific recommendations on rear shocks? I think have sensatracs on it now that look pretty old.
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  #42  
Old 01-03-2019, 01:07 PM
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We just have the stock 54k mile ones now. There are adjustable ones available(brain fart right now cant remember name but you know it). I would say stock is fine for you.
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  #43  
Old 01-03-2019, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown3.8 View Post
We just have the stock 54k mile ones now. There are adjustable ones available(brain fart right now cant remember name but you know it). I would say stock is fine for you.
You have the proof that there isn't a huge difference in the 60ft. But, i will say that for daily driving the billet arms have a better feel than stock. My $.02
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  #44  
Old 05-15-2019, 12:28 PM
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Track day

First back sense last year. Made some changes. Hoping for faster ets lol.
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