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Thread: Fuel Pump Saga Please Help

  1. #1
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    Fuel Pump Saga Please Help

    okay guys and gals, I need help:

    Here's the story, my wife and I should never go on dates. At least, never take the Marauder at least. We took it one time to see Jim Gaffigan Hershey, Pa. It was about 70 miles away. On the way home at around midnight the just died while driving. Luckily I was able to pull over to the side without incident. All electronics still worked but it wouldn't turn over. There was clicking but it wouldn't start. Called tow truck at 1am. By the grace of God we got home at 3am. It was horrible. When we got there the car started just fine, like nothing happened. Of course.

    But at anyrate, it suggests, as Marty suggested, bad fuel pump. The tuner Marty gave me gave a code that suggested bad fuel rail or bad fuel pump. Anyway, the garage we took it to, that has ALWAYS been great to us in the past swapped out the fuel pump. They, however, are not familiar with Marauders.

    Got the car back, check engine light. P0442 code that suggest evap leak. Sure enough they didn't tigheten something, no big deal. Took it back they fixed it. No more code. However, the needle isn't reading right. It tells me I'm empty when I am not. I fill up and the pump says I only put in 15 gallons when it said I was bone dry.

    So I take it back. They don't charge me for the new part, obviously, but they do charge me half on labor, which I don't know like but whatever, I have to pay it since they did the work and I don't want to take it somewhere else and pay full price on everything. So now they put in a new fuel pump.

    My wife and I go on another date with the marauder out of town... Arturo Sandoval... Big mistake. Again, at midnight, I'm filling up gas because it says I'm at a little over a quarter tank of gas and I have 323 miles on the tank, I don't think it is reading right again. Sure enough I put in 17.5 gallons. If my math is right, the needle is wrong again so the fuel sender is not telling the needle the right amount of gas, again.

    Here is the biggest issue. When I was done fueling, a huge waterfall, or shall I say fuel fall of gas came pouring out of my tank! At midnight I had gas pouring out of my tank in the middle of no where. So I had a decision to make, call a tow truck or risk dying in a ball of fire. I choose to risk it and drive home due to the fact that it eventually calmed down and started to just slowly drip. But still, it was scary as hell. When I was home it was no longer dripping at all and is no longer leaking now. But, I am as angry as can be. The garage is as confused as can be too as to why this is not working. They have done many crown vics and don't know what the difference is between this and them. They don't know if there is someting in the tank that is causing the issue because the place they are buying the fuel pump assures that the fuel pump is OEM and is no different than a mercury fuel pump. Are they wrong? What is the garage missing?

    If you all could please let me know what I should tell them. Currently the tuner is showing two codes P0442: possible fuel leak... yeah no kidding... and P1235 FDPM. Could that cause the fuel needle to show a wrong reading? Again, this garage has always been great and they are trying to remedy the situation. And believe me I would go to another garage but this garage is willing to make this right without charging me anything, so I would like to get the best advice so as to avoid having to pay full price somewhere else. Thanks guys. I told them to come here too, so hopefully they heed that advice.

  2. #2
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    It can be tricky to remove and install the pump assembly but easily doable on your back with some care. If you remove the right side tailpipe hanger and push the exhaust out of the way it will come out with ease. Next up is the wiring. It will not allow full removal of the assembly unless you follow the wires up to the top of the tank and separate them from the harness above for about a foot or so. (They are just taped to the other wires every couple of inches) After that you have full access to do a pump swap easily. Or simply cut the wires like me and add a weather tight connector.

    Considering the fuel level arm is the one thing that gets tangled up easily going in or out, my guess is that they bent the arm a tad forcing the assembly in or out.. And who only knows what to tweak at this point to correct it.

    There is no difference between a crown Vic or Marauder labor wise that I know of.

    As for the major leak, it sounds like they messed up the gasket reinstalling the fuel hat. Probably the top portion leaving you with only 2/3 - 3/4 tank once it was done.

    I myself would run very fast in the other direction..

    A fuel pump on these should take absolutely no more than two hours for a novice with only the slightest bit of mechanical knowhow doing one for the first time. And that includes jacking up the car.

    Basically, this is a low skill level repair that should never go wrong besides an bad pump right out of the box.

    Keep us informed please.


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #3
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    So you're saying that the tank itself doesn't need to come off to replace the fuel pump? Because they are not saying that. They are saying that the fuel pump is in the tank and the tank has to come off in order for the pump to be replaced. So your saying there is a work around or that is just not true altogether and they should've known that?

    The first time, other than the line they didn't tighten all the way, the only thing that didn't seem to go right is the fuel gauge not reading right. Which according to Martyo is a common thing with fuel pumps and can be fixed with a swap. I just think it is weird that this has happened twice. And I'm pissed that fuel is leaking now. My car smells like fuel, which maybe it is just residual smell from the first leak. Anyway, I'll let you all know how it goes.

  4. #4
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    If they did bend my arm could they just replace the tank itself? I'm seeing crown Vic tanks for 112 bucks. Wouldn't that solve the issue? Just throwing out stuff.

  5. #5
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    There is absolutely no reason for dropping the tank. I can't think of one guy on here that has ever done that!


    Replacing the tank will not remedy the arm. That is connected to the fuel hat that bolts to the tank.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    So you're saying that the tank itself doesn't need to come off to replace the fuel pump? Because they are not saying that. They are saying that the fuel pump is in the tank and the tank has to come off in order for the pump to be replaced. So your saying there is a work around or that is just not true altogether and they should've known that?

    The first time, other than the line they didn't tighten all the way, the only thing that didn't seem to go right is the fuel gauge not reading right. Which according to Martyo is a common thing with fuel pumps and can be fixed with a swap. I just think it is weird that this has happened twice. And I'm pissed that fuel is leaking now. My car smells like fuel, which maybe it is just residual smell from the first leak. Anyway, I'll let you all know how it goes.
    No, the tank absolutely does not have to come off.

    If the unit was on top of tank it would but on these cars it is on the side and is easily accessible.

    If they are telling you the tank has to come down, I think you have discovered your entire problem! Time to find a mechanic that has skills beyond a quik-lub tech...

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
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    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
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    Mo's Dyno Tune
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    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  7. #7
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    You stated: "All electronics still worked but it wouldn't turn over. There was clicking but it wouldn't start." To me that seems like a starter and/or battery issue, not fuel pump related. Maybe you have two issue? Could you please clarify?

    If its fuel pump/level related, I vote for replacing the entire sending unit, get everything brand new. Its mounted on the front of the tank, so no tank removal is necessary
    2004 Silver Birch w/moonroof. "Isabelle"


    Eaton swapped summer/fall 2015 with all the gooddies, tune by the one-and-only Marty-O +2psi pulley, Steigemeyer stage 6 port, SWLT, custom ss exhaust, Borla ProXS, Addco sway bars, TCE s/s brake hoses, Hawk HPS pads, Zack big brak kit, J-mod, battery in trunk, full custom audio (never used, blower whine sounds better)

    To do list:
    HID headlights, LED interior/exterior, courtesy "3-flash" turn signals, widen wheels, rear deck wing, marauder stencil on cmhsl? bumper cover inserts? deck lid, steering whee, hood liner godshead, more power!

  8. #8
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    I'm sorry, it most definitely wasn't a starter. While I'm not very mechanically inclined I did have to replace the starter on my previous car and this was a whole different thing. Plus the car runs fine now, except not reading the level of gas and the aforementioned leaking gas. I consulted with Marty with Mo's speed shop and he said it was the fuel pump especially due to the code that came up when I ran the reader. So again, the fuel pump was at fault.

    It is my understanding that the fuel sender and the fuel pump and all in one unit. Am I wrong? When I look them up they are one unit, fuel pump and sender in one unit. Just as Marty has pointed out sometimes they are bad so maybe they've just been bad twice? And as far as bending the arm when they put them in, isn't that pretty hard to do?

    I also might have misunderstood them when I said they had to remove the tank. When I brought them the car, the tank was completely full. They may have had to just lowered the tank to get to the fuel pump and therefore just had to take out a little gas. So maybe that is all they meant. But yeah, I don't know. My friend who is an auto technician is offering to help out if they can't do it so maybe I will go that route. Thanks.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    I'm sorry, it most definitely wasn't a starter. While I'm not very mechanically inclined I did have to replace the starter on my previous car and this was a whole different thing. Plus the car runs fine now, except not reading the level of gas and the aforementioned leaking gas. I consulted with Marty with Mo's speed shop and he said it was the fuel pump especially due to the code that came up when I ran the reader. So again, the fuel pump was at fault.

    It is my understanding that the fuel sender and the fuel pump and all in one unit. Am I wrong? When I look them up they are one unit, fuel pump and sender in one unit. Just as Marty has pointed out sometimes they are bad so maybe they've just been bad twice? And as far as bending the arm when they put them in, isn't that pretty hard to do?

    I also might have misunderstood them when I said they had to remove the tank. When I brought them the car, the tank was completely full. They may have had to just lowered the tank to get to the fuel pump and therefore just had to take out a little gas. So maybe that is all they meant. But yeah, I don't know. My friend who is an auto technician is offering to help out if they can't do it so maybe I will go that route. Thanks.
    Pump & sender are an assembly but the pump can be removed from the sender for replacement.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  10. #10
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    Ok, I see. They were replacing the unit as one set piece. Yes, I am considering cutting my losses with them and having my friend take it to his school and us doing it. It will take longer to get it done and I will have to pay full price for the fuel pump, but better to have it done right. Is there a brand or exact model you all know and trust without doubt that works for the fuel pump AND sender that shouldn't give me problems?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    Pump & sender are an assembly but the pump can be removed from the sender for replacement.


    See pic. The pump gets strapped to sender bracket and wires/lines then are attached


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    Ok, I see. They were replacing the unit as one set piece. Yes, I am considering cutting my losses with them and having my friend take it to his school and us doing it. It will take longer to get it done and I will have to pay full price for the fuel pump, but better to have it done right. Is there a brand or exact model you all know and trust without doubt that works for the fuel pump AND sender that shouldn't give me problems?
    With the fuel gauge acting up I would not trust the unit they installed as it sounds like they bent the float. Its not something you want to keep taking apart to fart around bending float over & over trying to make gauge accurate.

    If you have no HP mods, go with OEM: https://www.amazon.com/03-04-VCTRA-M...=3W1Z-9H307-AB

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefcaleb View Post
    Ok, I see. They were replacing the unit as one set piece. Yes, I am considering cutting my losses with them and having my friend take it to his school and us doing it. It will take longer to get it done and I will have to pay full price for the fuel pump, but better to have it done right. Is there a brand or exact model you all know and trust without doubt that works for the fuel pump AND sender that shouldn't give me problems?
    Anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this. Just follow justbob's instructions in post #2.

    Make sure you run the fuel level down below the sender opening before removing it. Be patient, take your time and DON'T force anything.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    Anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this. Just follow justbob's instructions in post #2.

    Make sure you run the fuel level down below the sender opening before removing it. Be patient, take your time and DON'T force anything.


    Well, I'm not sure if you would consider the Martyo tune with a SCT tuner a HP upgrade. That is the only above stock upgrade I have. I plan on getting 4.10 gears. I've thought about just having that guy do the fuel pump but like I said, my friend who is an auto technician obviously knows his stuff. He just like you all where he is confused as to why these guys at the garage would need to take the tank off. He knew that without knowing the Marauder intimately like you all do.


    Until I have time to do this, in your guys opinion, do you think it is safe to drive my car with the aforementioned leak? It is not leaking anymore. I do smell fuel when I get out after driving down a hill or what not. I assume this is because it has splashed and maybe some fuel come out of that loose gasket, but again, I don't see anything actively leaking anymore. I just want to make sure I'm not going to go down in a blazing ball of fire. Despite how cool that sounds. I mean, if I have to go down, that does sound pretty cool, but still... I have thought about having the garage fix that mistake at least, but maybe I don't want them laying hands on this car any more at all...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    There is absolutely no reason for dropping the tank. I can't think of one guy on here that has ever done that!


    Replacing the tank will not remedy the arm. That is connected to the fuel hat that bolts to the tank.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Okay, so forgive my ignorance... So the fuel hat is different than the fuel pump and the fuel tank correct? And I'm hoping and presuming that it, too, can be replaced using a regular car part store. I am also hoping it is easy and not so expensive to do so? Shouldn't I just buy that as well while I am at it just to be safe and if it is bad wouldn't a code come up?

    For that part, is there a particular one that you all suggest? Thanks guys again.

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