I want 93mm mile wheels to touch the Sun and suitable brakes to stop the Universe. Anybody up for it?
I want 93mm mile wheels to touch the Sun and suitable brakes to stop the Universe. Anybody up for it?
1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
Kooks Headers & X Pipe
GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87
A 2004 Impala had a curb weight of approximately 3400 lbs. The 2004 Mercury Marauder had a curb weight of 4195 lbs - a difference of almost 800 lbs. Maybe I misunderstood your point.
For stock Marauders, the TCE Plus 2 kit 14 x 1.10 rotors are not sufficient for front brakes. After buying rotors every 4-6 months, I had enough. Not all Marauder owners agree, and we can leave it at that.
You have a loyal following here and well deserved. If not for the direction I chose, I would buy the TCE Plus 3 (17 and 18") and 4 (20") kits.
Not to get back on topic or anything but the Killer Chiller works fine. Are there places for improvement? I think so.
1, a tee in the high pressure line before to factory oriface tube and the KC would utilize it own oriface tube and low side line back to the acclumulator at another tee. The Kc would have its own thermal bulb to meter the freon and compressior
2, the water return from the intercooler is still very cold. Adding a temperature operated metering valve on the outlet of the intercooler would allow a better heat exchange or
3, instead of the drag strip by pass tee for the heat exchanger use a larger radiator in front to cool the air crossing the condenser and radiator with the 40* water that's on its way back to the chiller
4, small condensate pump and sprayed post blower but before intercooler
Last edited by mm svt; 09-08-2017 at 03:58 PM.
*A 2004 Impala had a curb weight of approximately 3400 lbs. The 2004 Mercury Marauder had a curb weight of 4195 lbs - a difference of almost 800 lbs. Maybe I misunderstood your point.
Sorry, I should have clarified: 94-96 SS
All good. Share what you come up with, nothing wrong with new ideas.
My SS doesn't need BBK, the OEM will put you thru the windshield practically.
This harkens back to the conversation about why FOMOCO braking design engineers had their heads firmly inserted up their backsides. My personal examples of my MM & 97 Tbird, both have 4Wdisc and both couldn't stop w/o a 10 mile braking area. My moms 2000 Sable w/rear drums stops in 1/2 the distance the Tbird did...
WLB
BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
______________________________ ___________
BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
#2912 of 7093
Conceived 8/6/2002
Delivered 9/19/2002
Adopted 8/10/2011
Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
Pioneer 6x8 Front
Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
JL 6.5 SubWoofer
K&N CAI
Window tint 50% rear/35% front
FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
Mo's Dyno Tune
Gorilla Nuts - The System
Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
______________________________ ________________
Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014
All my racing is done at the drag strip and the OEM brakes are fine.
The shut down areas are plenty long and I have never gotten near the sand trap.
The sooner you start racing it the sooner you can break it so you can make it better/faster.
“Shoot for the Sun. Even if you miss, you'll land among the stars.”
1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
Kooks Headers & X Pipe
GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87
as said, Kincaid does not show the factory orifice tube location, or need for removal in instructions. In fact, when my install dd not work, on he phone he had us try other things before asking about the factory tube.
When I posted that, Zack laughed at me, and I cried.
^^ hey - I have a thread that contributed to the site!
Zack told me, he's right = killer chiller for the win.
Always leave your temp control on, your IAT will be steadily cool, why would anyone not do this?
Dodge Demon either paid Kincaid, or ripped off his idea. It just works.
sent from my rotary phone using Technicolor
2004 SILVER BIRCH/BLACK PAINT
DARK CHARCOAL NUDO LEATHER
#400 of 997 (SOLD)
2004 CV LX SPORT
ALL BLACK, 6 DISC, TUNED MZT (SOLD)
2004 300A MM BLACK
1 OWNER CAR, NO OPTIONS
DAILY DRIVER
2013 DAYTONA R/T
SUPER TRACK PACK
DAYTONA BLUE PEARL
#1763 off ~2100
NOW WITH A 392 & 3.73 posi!
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