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Thread: Killer Chiller Thread

  1. #31
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    I want 93mm mile wheels to touch the Sun and suitable brakes to stop the Universe. Anybody up for it?
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
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  2. #32
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    A 2004 Impala had a curb weight of approximately 3400 lbs. The 2004 Mercury Marauder had a curb weight of 4195 lbs - a difference of almost 800 lbs. Maybe I misunderstood your point.

    For stock Marauders, the TCE Plus 2 kit 14 x 1.10 rotors are not sufficient for front brakes. After buying rotors every 4-6 months, I had enough. Not all Marauder owners agree, and we can leave it at that.

    You have a loyal following here and well deserved. If not for the direction I chose, I would buy the TCE Plus 3 (17 and 18") and 4 (20") kits.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailsmen View Post
    I want 93mm mile wheels to touch the Sun and suitable brakes to stop the Universe. Anybody up for it?
    Then go build them or pony up the money to make it happen.

  4. #34
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    Killer Chiller Thread

    Not to get back on topic or anything but the Killer Chiller works fine. Are there places for improvement? I think so.
    1, a tee in the high pressure line before to factory oriface tube and the KC would utilize it own oriface tube and low side line back to the acclumulator at another tee. The Kc would have its own thermal bulb to meter the freon and compressior

    2, the water return from the intercooler is still very cold. Adding a temperature operated metering valve on the outlet of the intercooler would allow a better heat exchange or

    3, instead of the drag strip by pass tee for the heat exchanger use a larger radiator in front to cool the air crossing the condenser and radiator with the 40* water that's on its way back to the chiller

    4, small condensate pump and sprayed post blower but before intercooler

    Last edited by mm svt; 09-08-2017 at 03:58 PM.

  5. #35
    *A 2004 Impala had a curb weight of approximately 3400 lbs. The 2004 Mercury Marauder had a curb weight of 4195 lbs - a difference of almost 800 lbs. Maybe I misunderstood your point.



    Sorry, I should have clarified: 94-96 SS

    All good. Share what you come up with, nothing wrong with new ideas.
    TCE
    Your one stop...for Wilwood brakes.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd TCE View Post
    Sorry, I should have clarified: 94-96 SS
    My SS doesn't need BBK, the OEM will put you thru the windshield practically.

    This harkens back to the conversation about why FOMOCO braking design engineers had their heads firmly inserted up their backsides. My personal examples of my MM & 97 Tbird, both have 4Wdisc and both couldn't stop w/o a 10 mile braking area. My moms 2000 Sable w/rear drums stops in 1/2 the distance the Tbird did...

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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd TCE View Post
    *A 2004 Impala had a curb weight of approximately 3400 lbs. The 2004 Mercury Marauder had a curb weight of 4195 lbs - a difference of almost 800 lbs. Maybe I misunderstood your point.



    Sorry, I should have clarified: 94-96 SS

    All good. Share what you come up with, nothing wrong with new ideas.
    Ah, you meant The Beast. 236 hp at 4036 lbs - slightly better than the Marauder. The funny thing is, I bought my Marauder from my close friend in 2006 who bought a mint 1996 Chevy Impala. I won!

    It's all good.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowndex View Post
    Then go build them or pony up the money to make it happen.
    All my racing is done at the drag strip and the OEM brakes are fine.

    The shut down areas are plenty long and I have never gotten near the sand trap.

    The sooner you start racing it the sooner you can break it so you can make it better/faster.

    “Shoot for the Sun. Even if you miss, you'll land among the stars.”
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    Been discussed a zillion times. Only positives. He makes a Marauder specific kit. Be sure to remove the factory orifice tube, as the KC has its own.
    as said, Kincaid does not show the factory orifice tube location, or need for removal in instructions. In fact, when my install dd not work, on he phone he had us try other things before asking about the factory tube.
    When I posted that, Zack laughed at me, and I cried.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ambitious1 View Post
    ^^ hey - I have a thread that contributed to the site!

    Zack told me, he's right = killer chiller for the win.
    Always leave your temp control on, your IAT will be steadily cool, why would anyone not do this?
    Dodge Demon either paid Kincaid, or ripped off his idea. It just works.
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