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Thread: Head Light Restoration Procedure

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Head Light Restoration Procedure

    Head Light Restoration.

    I have used Crystal View (the best sealant), Rain X and Turtle Wax. All three systems work. However, eventually the headlight surface becomes so pourous that the sealant has a short life.

    I decided to try an automotive clear Polyurethane UV resistant paint.

    The products you will need are;
    Rain X or Turtle Wax head light restore kit
    Masking tape and garbage bags
    U-Pol automotive clear Poly paint
    Wax, grease remover
    Tack Cloth.

    Remove the head lights. Removing the front grill facilitates head light removal.
    Clean the head lights to remove dirt.
    Follow the Rain x or Turtle Wax restoration procedure - using only the sanding pads and lubricant followed by the polish. DO NOT use the sealant!
    Tape and bag the head lights.
    Use wax and grease remover.
    Prop the head lights so they are parallel to the ground to minimze runs
    Wipe with a tack cloth.
    Spray U-Pol, initially if a frost look appears the coat is not thick enough, continue coating until a uniform wet look is obtained.

    I don't know how long this will hold up. The surface of the head lights is compromised, there was a very faint checker board pattern covering the surface. The U-Pol has filled it in.

    I will post again when U-Pol fails!




    Last edited by sailsmen; 10-06-2012 at 05:07 AM.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  2. #2
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    Last time I had a set bad enough I could see patterning in the lense, I pulled them out, wet sanded them with 1500 then 2000 then 3000 then polished them with some Menzerna polishes. Zaino'd the snot out of then and forgot about them.
    I just continied sealing them with Zaino each time I did the car.

    4 years later the guy that bought the car from me started noticing that they were starting to yellow again.

    I like the idea of squirting them with the poly bomb! Thanks Billy.
    It's all BS until you can show me the time slip!

    Trilogy #36
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  3. #3
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    Billy I will let you use mine as a test bed. When we having lunch I have something to show you. It's big and blue.

  4. #4
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    So long as you keep your pants on you can show me.
    Last edited by sailsmen; 10-06-2012 at 05:06 AM.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    the way you do it is very similar to the way i do it. im a professional painter in a gm( i know i know but someone has to chow them the light) dealership body shop. the way i do it is sand(wet or dry) with 1000-1500 grit sandpaper antill the yellow is gone. then i spray clear coat right over the top of it with out poilishing. the upol clear your using should cover up the 1500 grit scratches also. i have done close to a hundred lights and non have peeled off in any condition and they will never fade back out either unless they yellow from the inside.but good job on your system, it looks like it works well if you dont have a paint gun and its much more cost efficient for someone that doesnt have a gallon of clear laying around!

  6. #6
    Mine are starting to look pretty weathered so I will give this a try.

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
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  7. #7
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    May have to look into this on my 2nd. set of used MM's headlights, but I still have the original headlights that I replaced that are REALLY yellow & opaque.
    2003 Marauder 300A
    #3968 of 7838
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    Build date: 08/22/2002
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    at I-95 North at New Smyrna Beach,FL


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    • Trunk organizer

    • Marty's tune

    • Big brake upgrade




    1995 Ford CVPI
    Purchased : 03/1999 [77k miles]
    Sold:03/2015 [330k miles]

    2001 Chevrolet Impala
    Inherited 02/2015 [93k miles]
    Sold:03/2023 [170k miles]

    2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature
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    New DD.

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  8. #8
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    I've heard, but have never tried that toothpaste works very good--imagine that !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Donald (drobin)
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    673 of #7093 Black

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaijack View Post
    Billy I will let you use mine as a test bed. When we having lunch I have something to show you. It's big and blue.
    A big lie You should prolly go see a Dr. about that
    I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul.
    And so are you - Have a day better than yesterday

  10. #10
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    Sailsmen, just curious how your lights and the U-Pol clear has held up?

  11. #11
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    Looks like the day I did them. It appears they will continue to hold up.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  12. #12
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    Sailsman, Im getting ready to do my headlights and I wondered if u polished the headlights then upol or upol over the final sanding then use polish over the upol?

  13. #13
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    I did not polish the Upol, it's a hard paint and I don't know how hard it is to polish.
    To answer your question I have not polished or put any headlight sealant on the Upol.
    I have put Zaino Z-CS, a paint sealant on the Upol.

    To clairfy after sanding I polished and then painted w/ Upol. Do not use the sealant that comes with the kit. You can use a paint sealant after the Upol cures.

    They still look like the day I painted them.
    Last edited by sailsmen; 03-19-2013 at 03:00 PM.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  14. #14
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    too late, used the sealant. worst part about the kit. time to sand that crap off and buy some spray
    Those were the days.........

    DANG THEY'RE CUTE!!!!!!
    Smile and Nod
    I love THIS bar

  15. #15
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    x-pel is awesome beyond awesome with a 5 year warrenty mine still look new after 3 years of georgia heat
    VORTECH A2A supercharger ,accufab 60mm throttle body,all fluids royal purple,cobra headers and exhaust by todd at Grands,410 gears rebuilt rearend(eaton), 3600 high stall converter,rebuilt transmission by Team Ford of marietta rear girdle,powerslot cryo disc, and stainless steel lines from dennis and tuned by aric at INJECTED INGINEERING

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