Wanted: install feedback on SW's entire exhaust system

[justbob]

V band preferable or some kind of means to remove the X.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[Logizyme]

A few less pieces would be a good way to improve. As you said Zack if they marked each piece where it met the next it would be easier to get they system where it is suppose to be, but they would not need to do that very much if the system was not nearly 20 separate pieces. The factory complete exhaust system, manifold to tip is only 7 pieces.

Why not build it to more resemble the factory system. Make the header one piece all the way down and use a flange. From the flange make your one piece crossover and mid-section pipe. Mufflers. One piece for each side over-axle and tail.

It might make installation slightly tougher having to lower the axle completely to install the one piece over-axle/tails but it would save all the freaking hassle that we are discussing in this thread.

I hardly ever drive my car since putting the SW kit on because I'm half worried it'll fall off and half annoyed by the off the charts drone. I too installed it myself on a lift and am an experienced tech.

[Turbov6Bryan]

V band for the win
These would look nice on Chris curless GNX

[Blown3.8]

I really think this setup needs Lap Joint Band clamps, vs. the Accuseal Band clamps provided

Yes! I learned after Sherm's system. And told Merc to order the lap band clamps. Mercs went on smooth with those.

You don't wanna see the ghetto stuff I have holding Sherm's mufflers up with. His popped off on a hard launch at the strip once.

[1stMerc]

Did any one else have problems with egr tube connecting. Tube on header was at the wrong angle by about a quarter inch. After long while of on and off testing finally got the two together.
Curious what others did to get it to work.

[Zack]

I've always had to lay the egr tube on the ground and stand on it to bend it.
Then I have to remove the egr, thread it in then bend it over with a bar to get the holes to line up

[1stMerc]

Then I have to remove the egr, thread it in then bend it over with a bar to get the holes to line up

That's the other half of the equation I have to do tomorrow.

[MOTOWN]

V band for the win
These would look nice on Chris curless GNX

This exactly why I built a true 3" stainless steel exhaust with vband clamps through out the entire exhaust, the way it should have been done.

[Turbov6Bryan]

For the amount they want for a exhaust system, a guy could buy a tig welder, rent a lift, and hack away at some prebent J tubes to make a v band system

And have money left over

[justbob]

Did any one else have problems with egr tube connecting. Tube on header was at the wrong angle by about a quarter inch. After long while of on and off testing finally got the two together.
Curious what others did to get it to work.

Honestly Waymon, mine lined right up. But keep in mind it was the Trilogy one that's flexible. I don't have one with the ProCharger.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[Chi Stallion]

Spoke with Robert at Stainless works today and they take this issue serious and whoever has had any trouble with their exhaust fitment to give them a call, they wanna hear everybody's opinion on this matter. We all gota come together and give them a call, even if you had to resolve the problem on your own, it will still makes a big difference so the R&D can finally get this problem solved once and for all.



1800 878 3635 ask for Robert.

[GreekGod]

Wow! ... I looked into driving to Cleveland and getting their exhaust/headers when they offered free installation with a system purchase. I saw they sold band clamps for the joints (a very bad idea). V band clamps or ball and cone are to only way to go, unless making a welded joint.

re:
http://www.spintechmufflers.com/exha.../prod_808.html

My experience with band clamps raised a red flag. They are (at best) a temporary "fix". As others have mentioned, they always loosen up over time, especially with any weight added to the joint from the system. There are band clamps available with windows in it, for tack welding a joint during fitment. About the only time I will ever use them again.

At one time I messaged them for a price on just the 2 1/2" tailpipes. I think they wanted $300, and with the lack of clearance with the OEM pipes to the Watts link, I figured it would not be worth the hassle.

[1968F100]

I think I read the entire thread, and if MM.net is like other forums, I apologize for bringing this back from the dead, but being a new owner, I am trying to do my research on various aftermarket "Improvements."

That said, "Did SW get their issues with the exhaust fixed?"

Perhaps there is a related thread I have yet to read.
Thanks and again my apologies.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I think I read the entire thread, and if MM.net is like other forums, I apologize for bringing this back from the dead, but being a new owner, I am trying to do my research on various aftermarket "Improvements."

That said, "Did SW get their issues with the exhaust fixed?"

Perhaps there is a related thread I have yet to read.
Thanks and again my apologies.

They did make some changes after MV14 tour while a members car was there to see the issues..Mostly with some fit/alinment issues. Some dealt with widened rear wheels and metco watts link. They have not changed their clamping systems as far as I know.

[GreekGod]

... They have not changed their clamping systems as far as I know.

It's good that they address some problem areas, but using band clamps instead of (the far superior) V band clamps and (and/or ball and cone at the collector) is probably because all of the bends and cuts would require a new welding fixture and new programming for their bender.

Also, the v-band clamps could add considerable expense (they are pricey)

=