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Thread: Idle Belt? Squeak

  1. #1
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    Idle Belt? Squeak

    So, I have this awful squeak at idle. Sound like your typical belt squeak and have had a hard time tracking down. Used a stethoscope and everything. When the AC kicks on, it now changes pitch/sound slightly. I figure it is the AC compressor.

    When I had the engine rebuilt I got a new power steering pump, idle arm, and water pump. Only the AC and alternator remain. So, probably the AC. But it squeaks when the clutch is off as well and it seems to go away off of idle.

    What do you all think? Would getting it recharged help?

  2. #2
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    Idler, tensioner or belt, or all of them.


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  3. #3
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    take belt off and start car if sound gone then one of the item Spectragod mentioned above. all idlers and pulleys should be silky smooth when spinning by hand. Do not run car for more than a minute, no water is circulating with belt off.
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  4. #4
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    Wonder if I should just put a new belt on and see

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    Wonder if I should just put a new belt on and see


    It is good practice to change the idler pulleys as well as the tensioner when changing the belts. They are very simple to replace as well. I actually always keep stock of 6203 bearings and just swap them out as almost anything that rotates on most engines uses the same bearing LOL One pulley has it sealed into place, some have a clip, all others is simply a hammer and a socket and done.

    It has been my experience on these engines that they seem to go thru those faster than belts in all the Marauders I’ve worked on.

    If you go to the trouble of taking the belt off then at minimum feel the idlers for sticky/crunchy rotation compared to others. It doesn’t take much to get noises from them.


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  6. #6
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    What they said /\... Likely not the A/C compressor as it doesn't turn when the clutch is disengaged, unless the squeak is from the compressor clutch itself.
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  7. #7
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    If you are not certain it Is a belt... When idling and squeeking, put your hand on nose of hood and push down a little. If it stops... It is your hood latch.


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  8. #8
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    It was my alternator. Changed it, idler pulleys, and tensioner and all is quite. At 118,000 miles. Don't know if they were ever changed before - probably not. Easy job.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    It is good practice to change the idler pulleys as well as the tensioner when changing the belts. They are very simple to replace as well. I actually always keep stock of 6203 bearings and just swap them out as almost anything that rotates on most engines uses the same bearing LOL One pulley has it sealed into place, some have a clip, all others is simply a hammer and a socket and done.

    It has been my experience on these engines that they seem to go thru those faster than belts in all the Marauders I’ve worked on.

    If you go to the trouble of taking the belt off then at minimum feel the idlers for sticky/crunchy rotation compared to others. It doesn’t take much to get noises from them.


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    Whenever I change the belt I change the pulleys also. Cheap insurance. I know RockAuto offers a kit with all the components.

    TIP: Keep the old belt, if it's not broken, in the trunk for use in an emergency.

    Belts:
    Serpentine (NAPA) – PBH4060923 - stock
    Gatorback (Goodyear) – 4060922 - stock

    Belt Tensioner:

    Dayco – 305291
    Goodyear – 49293

    Idler Pulleys:
    Dayco (smooth) - 89007
    FoMoCo (ribbed) - YW7Z-8678-AA
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