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Thread: Low brake pedal

  1. #1

    Low brake pedal

    My car only has 30k on it, the car stops well and did not pull but the pedal seemed a bit low, like the brakes dont catch untill half way down with the pedal. I figured i would give the brakes a freshening and put on all new pads and get the rotors surfaced. I also flushed all the old fluid out, I feel pretty good about not getting any air in the system. Got it all completed and it feels exactly the same. All the pads i removed looked real good and the rotors cleaned up nicely. So whats next? master cyl? anything im missing? Im thinking of re-bleeding it all again to be sure about that.. I see in an old post someone mentioned braking on a gravel road to cycle the abs pump in case there was air in it?

    Any thoughts?
    Matt
    03' Blue/Charcoal, Gone
    04' DTR, Gone

  2. #2
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    Im having the same issue. I changed the fluid, all new brakes, bled them numerous times, a new master and the pedal still sucks. I have some SS lines I plan to install soon. I hear that helps the pedal feel.

    2003
    MERCURY MARAUDER 300A

    Build Date
    5/31/02
    Sequence#
    #363 of 7839 Black Marauders
    Dyno tested power
    450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
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  3. #3
    Do you have SS brake lines? Those can help increase the feel of the pedal.

    Mine are the same way you are describing yours. I have SS brake lines, new OEM pads/rotors/calipers up front and new pads in the rear.

    How does one test the master cylinder to see if it's working 100% proper?

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Replace the master cylinder.

    Rebleed brakes.

    ***The master cylinders on our cars suck***

  5. #5
    Go with OEM or is there a good aftermarket company to get one from?

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrlraven View Post
    Go with OEM or is there a good aftermarket company to get one from?
    I believe that the one I used was made by Wagner. I bought it from O'Reilly's.

    Make sure that you get the right one (traction control cars need a different one than a non-traction control car).

  7. #7
    Thanks for the info Marty!

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by martyo View Post
    I believe that the one I used was made by Wagner. I bought it from O'Reilly's.

    Make sure that you get the right one (traction control cars need a different one than a non-traction control car).
    Good to know, thanks.

    2003 MARAUDER
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  9. #9
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    I have SS lines etc. and my pedal is the same way too. I even convinced myself that I had air in the line after the line lock install. . . then I remembered


    11.90 @ 117.5mph on 93 octane
    324 shortblock, Novi 2000, Now with optional axle removing tires
    Igziabeher

  10. #10
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    One other thing, I think these are "core" parts, so save the one you pull out because you will need to return it for the core charge (like 20 bucks).

  11. #11
    Are people just replacing the master cylinder and/or the brake booster also?

    2004 Silver Birch
    300B
    Build date:9/29/2003, Adopted on 12/02/05
    Exhaust by Greg
    13.630 @ 100.49 mph (11/21/10)

    2015 Ford Focus SE Sport FWD
    2013 Lincoln MKS EcoBoost AWD (377whp/423tq).
    2010 Ford Fusion Sport FWD
    1989.5 Ford Mustang 5.0 LXsport

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by ctrlraven View Post
    Are people just replacing the master cylinder and/or the brake booster also?
    I did just the master.

    Another thing is to thoroughly flush the fluid because when the master cylinder goes bad teh fluid gets contamintaed.

  13. #13
    Thanks guys. The one thing i do notice is the pedal is low on the first hit but if you do a second hit right away on the pedal its up where you would want it to be. I will look into getting a new master cyl. and doing another bleed of the system. So is there anything about cycling that ABS pump?
    Matt
    03' Blue/Charcoal, Gone
    04' DTR, Gone

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt In Detroit View Post
    Thanks guys. The one thing i do notice is the pedal is low on the first hit but if you do a second hit right away on the pedal its up where you would want it to be. I will look into getting a new master cyl. and doing another bleed of the system. So is there anything about cycling that ABS pump?
    Check for vacuum leaks. I noticed I would have strong brakes after a second pump due to my intake manifold being a little loose.

    2003
    MERCURY MARAUDER 300A

    Build Date
    5/31/02
    Sequence#
    #363 of 7839 Black Marauders
    Dyno tested power
    450 RWHP & 405 RWTQ on 93 octane
    Best 1/4 mile time to date
    12.456@109mph
    Visit my Garage
    Blackened300a's Garage



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Western Kentucky
    Age
    75
    Posts
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    I have an 04 MM and does the same. Also have trail blazer that when at stop light I can push the pedal to the floor and pump again and it is tight. Brake man said that is normal for ABS.
    USAF Retired
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