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Thread: Bench testing suspension compressor

  1. #1
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    Bench testing suspension compressor

    Hey guys, I wanna test my compressor before I spend the money on a new one, can anyone give me a step-by-step how to do it?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Give it positive and negative.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    Give it positive and negative.
    With the car running, can I do that straight from jump wires connected to the battery, to the black and red pinhole connections on the compressor?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerdurden2816 View Post
    With the car running, can I do that straight from jump wires connected to the battery, to the black and red pinhole connections on the compressor?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
    Do you want to just test if the compressor works or are you trying to jump it to fill the bags?

    If you're trying to fill the bags, you need to make sure the solenoids open up which they'll only remain open for a certain window of time.

    Normally when I was ever testing a car with a bad compressor, I'd just slap a known good compressor on since its so easy to change. You don't need the car running, just key on, open/close a door so it trips the solenoids open (as long as it isn't at ride height, you'll hear a click when they open), then you could jump the compressor to put air in the bags.

    I have never had to jump a compressor before, if yours is dead and looks rusty 95% chance it's the problem. Happens to everyone at some point.


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
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    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    Do you want to just test if the compressor works or are you trying to jump it to fill the bags?



    If you're trying to fill the bags, you need to make sure the solenoids open up which they'll only remain open for a certain window of time.



    Normally when I was ever testing a car with a bad compressor, I'd just slap a known good compressor on since its so easy to change. You don't need the car running, just key on, open/close a door so it trips the solenoids open (as long as it isn't at ride height, you'll hear a click when they open), then you could jump the compressor to put air in the bags.



    I have never had to jump a compressor before, if yours is dead and looks rusty 95% chance it's the problem. Happens to everyone at some point.
    I'm trying to test it before replacing it. So, I don't have another one yet, I want to test this one to see if it will even turn on. I'm pretty sure it's bad, but at $120 minimum, I'd really like to be positive first.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerdurden2816 View Post
    I'm trying to test it before replacing it. So, I don't have another one yet, I want to test this one to see if it will even turn on. I'm pretty sure it's bad, but at $120 minimum, I'd really like to be positive first.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
    At that point I'd just disconnect the airline and jump it.

    I don't remember the pinout for our cars, these may be the same

    https://www.crownvic.net/drock96marquis/RAS.htm


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
    2063/3214

    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    At that point I'd just disconnect the airline and jump it.



    I don't remember the pinout for our cars, these may be the same



    https://www.crownvic.net/drock96marquis/RAS.htm
    The connector has four points, and I saw a red and black, so I assume I can just go direct from the battery to those with a couple jump wires.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerdurden2816 View Post
    The connector has four points, and I saw a red and black, so I assume I can just go direct from the battery to those with a couple jump wires.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
    I mean, you can't make it any worse than non working


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
    2063/3214

    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    I mean, you can't make it any worse than non working
    my thoughts too lol! I was just looking for somebody who may have done it before to confirm that was correct to avoid a false negative.

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  10. #10
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    BK - Ground
    PK - Solenoid vent
    BK - Ground
    GY/RD - Compressor relay, switched power



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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    BK - Ground
    PK - Solenoid vent
    BK - Ground
    GY/RD - Compressor relay, switched power



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    My compressor doesn't have the same colors you're describing. Held looking into the holes like in the first picture, the individual pinholes look like a compass ("North" being the hole closest to the connector clip), and their wire colors are as follows:

    North-Red
    East-Blue
    South-Green
    West-Black

    Keeping this configuration in mind, can I run a jump wire from my car battery's (-) to the black(West) hole and another jump wire from car battery's (+) to the red(North) hole, with the car running, to properly test if this compressor will run anymore?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    My compressor doesn't have the same colors you're describing. Held looking into the holes like in the first picture, the individual pinholes look like a compass ("North" being the hole closest to the connector clip), and their wire colors are as follows:

    North-Red
    East-Blue
    South-Green
    West-Black

    Keeping this configuration in mind, can I run a jump wire from my car battery's (-) to the black(West) hole and another jump wire from car battery's (+) to the red(North) hole, with the car running, to properly test if this compressor will run anymore?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    After seeing how crusty the motor is.. it's prolly toast..bench test it for piece of mind.
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubberCtyRauder View Post
    After seeing how crusty the motor is.. it's prolly toast..bench test it for piece of mind.
    My thoughts exactly. Is the way I described a proper way to test it?

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerdurden2816 View Post
    My compressor doesn't have the same colors you're describing. Held looking into the holes like in the first picture, the individual pinholes look like a compass ("North" being the hole closest to the connector clip), and their wire colors are as follows:

    North-Red
    East-Blue
    South-Green
    West-Black

    Keeping this configuration in mind, can I run a jump wire from my car battery's (-) to the black(West) hole and another jump wire from car battery's (+) to the red(North) hole, with the car running, to properly test if this compressor will run anymore?

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


    What about the vehicle side colors? Jump the one on the flat side of the connector with the one directly across from it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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