You're just humble. I envy your patience and attention to detail.
You're just humble. I envy your patience and attention to detail.
1999 P71, Chevy 6.0, billet 85mm turbo, 4L80e, 3.73s, E85, etc. 8.91@153
2003 Mercury Marauder, LS swap in the works
I've seen your pics on CV.net Cameron, you got some serious metalworking skills sir, some of magic that's happening with 'The Law' is killer to say the least!
I will take pics during the cam swap process as well. I've had a few of these apart at work (we've seen valve seat failures on work trucks that have seen heavy sand ingestion) and they are very simple in nature compared to some of the other modular's.
I'm hoping to be to that point by this weekend . I'd like to get the acutal motor i'm using set in place and test fit the Power By The Hour accessory kit as well.
If you are planning on Turbocharging later on, may I suggest making the motor mounts solid?
I did that on mine...It's barely noticeable and prevents all of the pipes from excessive flexing.
I don't even have a flex pipe anywhere on my hot side and its perfectly fine.
hey there Zach!
I'm not really a solid mount guy myself....I mean I get the point and it does work, no doudt, however I've just always used flex couplers in my hot sides and kept isolators in all the mounts. I'm actually amazed that it doesn't produce vibrations in the cab honestly. I'm sure if I experience mount failure or other flex issues i'll have to resort to other means at that time.
The MOST power i've produced out of the LS setups was a little over 700 RWHP, and still utilizing stock style mounts, and *knock on wood* had great success so far. However, I will admit, the stock Marauder mounts seem a little more cheezy than some of the others i've dealt with.
Anyone here still running stock mounts with decent power??
Mine are welded and I'm not kidding when I say I couldn't tell a difference! I had no choice as my F1 is 100% welded and my inlet is braced right to the throttle body. I've seen enough blown off pipes and embarrassed owners to say you won't ever see that on mine!
Keep in mind that mine is lowered with all suspension mods except the watts link so my suspension is already quite stiff.
Zack told me I could feel his only slightly at start up and never while running. Honestly I didn't even notice his at all either.
He had his professionally welded. I just welded a bridge plate on the back side still in the car, even the starter was still installed LOL. Worked fine, I was just in a frenzy trying to meet an impossible dyno date three states away with limited time off..
Builder Of Badassery
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Thank you guys! I'll add it to the information i'm still compiling on the build .
Engine mounts are cheap.
Builder Of Badassery
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Im running the stock mounts with no issues.
04 MERCURY MARAUDER build date:02/11/04ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!
STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!!
**WHIPPLE 4.0L CRUSHER!**0000 (FOR NOW) RWHP
VISIT MY GARAGE FOR A FULL LIST OF MODS
Nothing is wrong with the stock mounts.
I just think going solid is better for a turbo car
Trans crossmember is almost complete. I ended up using the stock Marauder cross member, with some cutting/welding and fabrication. The 6R80 is now installed, and it even uses the stock 4R70W mount as well.
Now on to cam installation/final motor installation and exhaust modification. I have stock tubular Mustang headers, the passenger side is a no-go without reworking 1 tube, driver side is a go with some light tube crimping to clear the steering shaft, or I may just re-work it as well. We'll see what happens. The truck manifold works great on the passenger side, but driver side is a no go, and i'm not using a manifold on the RH and tubular manifold on the LH.
Turbo kit wise, this car will get a single turbo with a log manifold as per my last setups when i'm to that point. There is plenty of room for a downpipe and log manifold on the LH head with a crossover underneath the bell.
So I thought you where doing an Chebby motor? Be sure to take some pictures for us. Don't make me drive over to you.
Neil
2003 Mercury Marauder - DBP/DC
2003 Mercury Marauder - BLK/DC
2003 Mercury Marauder - SB/LF
2004 Mercury Marauder - DTR/LF
1964 Mercury Marauder - BLK/BLK
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