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Thread: Will be swapping in a built 99 Cobra engine.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    I’m going to start removing the engine this weekend. Any tips on removing the existing and installing the new engine?




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  2. #32
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    Will be swapping in a built 99 Cobra engine.

    I know I’m going to need exhaust. I ran across this kooks header with off-road x pipe for less than $700. Does this look like it would work? I’m in Alabama and we don’t have emissions testing. If not this, what do you recommend? I still have stock exhaust except for deleted rear cats.

    https://wheelwell.com/shop/kooks-cus...&submodel=Base


    Engine is out. Pulled it just as you guys suggested. Wasn’t bad at all. Will get it on a stand next week and start swapping everything over








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    Last edited by JBeezy; 05-05-2019 at 12:20 PM.
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  3. #33
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    I didn’t want to start a new thread so I’m posting here. I have a few questions. I have ordered a set of SW headers and plan on ordering an x pipe and exhaust this week. The questions I have are:

    What is the best place to shop the o-rings that sit on the port behind the water pump? The metal tube that runs under the intake connects to it. The dealer wants $18 ea for them. Crazy to me

    For those with SW headers, can they be installed while the engine is out and set in with the engine?
    If so, will the steering shaft be an issue?

    Also concerning the headers, can I use the factory dipstick? I want to say I read something about possibly cutting the header flange for this to work

    Thanks in advance. That’s all I can think of at the moment



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    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  4. #34
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    Engine can be installed with headers on engine. Dipstick is your call. Some cut the flange so tube doesn't have to be removed and others use a Lokar flexible dipstick. I went the Lokar route for the ease.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    Engine can be installed with headers on engine. Dipstick is your call. Some cut the flange so tube doesn't have to be removed and others use a Lokar flexible dipstick. I went the Lokar route for the ease.


    Well the engine is out the car so I can install the dipstick afterwards. Now I understand why they cut it.

    Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks


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    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post

    Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks


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    It doesn't
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    Well the engine is out the car so I can install the dipstick afterwards. Now I understand why they cut it.

    Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    It doesn't
    It will be easier to install the engine with the SW headers bolted on, if you disconnect and move the steering shaft out of the way.
    It may be possible to leave the shaft connected, but with Kooks headers I found it necessary to disconnect the steering shaft.



    Looks good so far!



    Also: Gotta love that friggin' anti-freeze!
    No matter how much you drain and tilt the engine....it ALWAYS pukes out another quart or more of that sickly sweet, slippery coolant....
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
    w/Crower Cams & Springs, +1mm SS valves, mild port job on the cylinder heads.
    Extrude honed intake w/PHP spacer.
    Kooks Headers w/2.5" High Flow Cats & X-Pipe, Magnaflow mufflers, OEM tailpipes w/Megs Tips
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  8. #38
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    IIRC the shaft is fine left in place. If I were you I’d cut down all the studs on the passenger side so you have the option of removing it later if need be. I don’t recall which ones won’t clear so I just cut them all.


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  9. #39
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    Will be swapping in a built 99 Cobra engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Walsh View Post
    It will be easier to install the engine with the SW headers bolted on, if you disconnect and move the steering shaft out of the way.
    It may be possible to leave the shaft connected, but with Kooks headers I found it necessary to disconnect the steering shaft.



    Looks good so far!



    Also: Gotta love that friggin' anti-freeze!
    No matter how much you drain and tilt the engine....it ALWAYS pukes out another quart or more of that sickly sweet, slippery coolant....


    Thanks Joe. I got it on a stand a few days ago and I tilted it tonight to remove the oil pan and even more antifreeze drained out. A lot more. I’m in the process of swapping everything over. Had to clean the nasty timing cover. The seal on the input shaft of the Procharger was pretty much resting against the pulley and causing a major leak.










    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    IIRC the shaft is fine left in place. If I were you I’d cut down all the studs on the passenger side so you have the option of removing it later if need be. I don’t recall which ones won’t clear so I just cut them all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro



    When you say cut down the studs, how much would you suggest? I assume this is in case I need to remove the header one day. Will make it easier...




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

  11. #41
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    I had the same issue with my Procharger
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBeezy View Post
    When you say cut down the studs, how much would you suggest? I assume this is in case I need to remove the header one day. Will make it easier...




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    Just leave enough meat on the nut end for the nut and a couple of extra threads. The middle (smooth) will stop at the head and accommodate the flange, so like I said, just enough for a nut and little extra.


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    I had the same issue with my Procharger


    When my F1-A locked up it looked just like yours. I ended up running it dry from a small leak I hadn’t noticed and spun the front bearing in turn locking up the unit and destroying it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  14. #44
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    Ouch. Luckily I caught it before catastrophic failure.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  15. #45
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    Mine has been leaking for a while but I never knew that is where it was leaking from. Knowing this o checked it every other time I drove the car, same with my oil. Idk why but better safe than sorry.

    What did you do? Replace the seal yourself or send it off?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 Black/Light Flint MM, PROCHARGER D1SC#30, 4.10 GEARS, REAR COOLING MOD, ZACK BIG BRAKE KIT, 3500 STALL, WIDENED REAR WHEELS.

    1993 MUSTANG LX HATCH, 347 STROKER, 3.73 GEARS, TUBULAR K MEMBER, TKO 3550 TRANNY, AEROSPACE DUAL PISTON BREAKS.

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