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Thread: need swaybar part #

  1. #16
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    made 3 phone calls, 2 of which were unanswered and 2 emails, both unanswered, I have given up on ADDCO. I will just go aftermarket.

    Thanks for all the info.
    2003 300A
    black
    K&N CAI
    XCAL2 (DENNIS REINHARDT)
    blue inserts
    GODSHEAD oil cap (COLEX)
    GODSHEAD badging(CARMOTORSPORTS)
    flowmaster super 40s
    silverstars
    BADGELESS GRILLE(2ND OWNER)
    DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS
    NAPA CERAMIC PADS
    PROGUARD(DENNIS REINHARDT)
    ADDCO FRONT AND REAR SWAYS(DENNIS REINHARDT)
    MACH 1 CHIN SPOILER(INNNOVATIVE INTERCEPTORS)


  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by not5-0 View Post
    made 3 phone calls, 2 of which were unanswered and 2 emails, both unanswered, I have given up on ADDCO. I will just go aftermarket.

    Thanks for all the info.
    You could give www.Neverenoughauto.com a call and see if they can get anywhere. They may even have what you need. They are a big Addco seller.

  3. #18
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    i remember a similar post not long ago, i think addco moved to FL and obviously lost employees and are still short handed. I think someone did reach them and they apoligized ( not that means anything anymore) and got the moving to FL story. if they plan on staying in business, they better up their skills. I here ADTR.net got eibach to make panther sway bars. might only be available thru ADTR. check the site.
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Personally I'd go with ...

    Front Swaybar End links:
    Moog - K80140 - greasable
    I just put these on my 2006 Grand Marquis. Any idea how often to grease them? I was planning to call Moog and ask.
    2006 Mercury Grand Marquis with Handling and Performance Package

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobH View Post
    I just put these on my 2006 Grand Marquis. Any idea how often to grease them? I was planning to call Moog and ask.
    I do mine at every oil change (5K).
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  6. #21
    Every oil change

    Sent from my LGLS755 using Tapatalk

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Personally I'd go with greasable Energy Suspension bushings.



    Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions

    Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172

    Rear – 9.5161 - you will need to do some fabing to get these to work.



    Front Swaybar End links:

    Moog - K80140 - greasable

    Looking into picking these up. I have a 1.25" Addco front and a 1" Quickor rear, so hopefully Energy can help with the rear too.

    The only thing going right over my head is "front sway bar end links"? I'm missing something obvious I guess, as I just installed the front bar 10-11 years ago, and don't see end links like I do in the rear, or recall the need to lube anything on those ends. (For that matter, I have no idea how I got those front ends done years ago; looks completely inaccessible, but somehow I did it pretty easily as I recall).

    I was planning on undoing both sets of brackets today and regreasing them, but this is a better solution.

    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Looking into picking these up. I have a 1.25" Addco front and a 1" Quickor rear, so hopefully Energy can help with the rear too.

    The only thing going right over my head is "front sway bar end links"? I'm missing something obvious I guess, as I just installed the front bar 10-11 years ago, and don't see end links like I do in the rear, or recall the need to lube anything on those ends. (For that matter, I have no idea how I got those front ends done years ago; looks completely inaccessible, but somehow I did it pretty easily as I recall).

    I was planning on undoing both sets of brackets today and regreasing them, but this is a better solution.

    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This what the front sway bar end links look like.

    http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...ype=Suspension
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  9. #24
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    Ok, got it, what I tied into at the time of install, thanks. My RSB came with new end links, but since the Addco didn't I never considered replacing them.

    By the way, I see the Energy bushings are polyurethane so it's good they're greasable, because poly can squeak like hell if not kept greased. My Metco control arm bushings are pretty bad in that way.

    I have also done a bad job keeping them greased, just every couple of years, so hope I haven't damaged them actually. Checking them out today...

    Thanks again.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #25
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    Greasable rear sway ar bushings.

    I did a write up on how to use the Energy Suspension greasable sway bar bushings with the rear Addco sway bar.

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=93480

    There are some who poo - pooed it but they are still working fine.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    I did a write up on how to use the Energy Suspension greasable sway bar bushings with the rear Addco sway bar.

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=93480

    There are some who poo - pooed it but they are still working fine.

    Thanks, appreciate it. I'll have to see how my rear bushings are holding up after all this time.

    Funny, the Quickor RSB was a superior bar to the Addco IMO, but he just couldn't get the bushings right. He used a shorter bushing with two steel spacers, that could never pull up tight enough in the bracket and eventually the spacers would work loose or fall out.

    The Addco bushings for the rear worked perfectly, and as I recall Addco even sent them to me for free.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  12. #27
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    BTW, probably mentioned elsewhere, but from Energy Suspension tech support on the difference between the 9.5165 and 9.5272 greasable front bushings:

    "Main difference is going to be the bolt spacing on the brackets 9.5165 has a min bolt spacing of 2.56 to a max of 3.62; 9.5172 has a min bolt spacing of 3.00 in to a max of 3.62."

    I can't tell you what Addco I have, it's 1.25" is all I know, so assuming the 2196, and believe I used the OEM brackets with their bushings. Based on that I don't see how you could use both Energy part numbers in our cars. I'm thinking the 9.5165 is correct, but will pull a bracket and measure it first.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  13. #28
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    I posted this in post 13 for my fronts.

    I purchased the Energy Suspension part# 9.5165G for the front 1-1/4" sway bar. Piece of cake to change and now they are greaseable.

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=93480

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouse View Post
    I posted this in post 13 for my fronts.

    I purchased the Energy Suspension part# 9.5165G for the front 1-1/4" sway bar. Piece of cake to change and now they are greaseable.

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=93480

    Thanks, I appreciate the confirmation. I'm pretty sure most folks got the same Addco FSB, but the multiple part numbers from Energy was confusing.

    Did you do the end links as well?

    My bushings still look ok, but it's a PITA to take them off to grease them.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  15. #30
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    No, just the bushings.

    However, I noticed a few weeks ago that both of my rear sway bar end links were broken. O'Reilly Auto Parts had a Moog set that had a larger bolt size.

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