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Thread: Oil Filter Housing Gasket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Oil Filter Housing Gasket

    Hey, since I’ve gotten the car I have always leaked oil. Couple drips every time I park it. Took it to my school with a lift and had guy look at it. We cleaned up the oil that was under the car with degreaser and brake clean. Fired up the car and held it at 2.5k, you could see a small seepage from the oil filter housing gasket. How hard of a job is this and is the gasket specific to marauders. Just want advice to those that have done it. Any precautions to take.Thanks appreciate it.
    -mike

  2. #2
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    It's messy

    You will drain all the coolant and oil , I used a razor blade to scrape off all the left over gasket

    ive purchased them at rock auto, and purchased at Napa

    Then you will bleed the coolant system
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

    Current marauders
    04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg

    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
    03 DBP Light Flint #122
    03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
    03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
    03 Black 300a
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works

    04 Heaton Swapped DTR
    Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread

  3. #3
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    Oil Filter Housing Gasket

    I think this may be happening to me also. Approximately a half teaspoon of oil every 1-2 days I’m guessing, just from leaving it parked that long and checking the ground, and only started in the past couple of weeks.

    Standing on the drivers side of the engine and reaching down, I’ve felt where the OF meets the block, and it’s dry. The drip appears to be coming from about about 6” behind the OF (towards the rear of the car), and inboard of the filter mount a bit. Of course, it could be dripping from anywhere and running back to that point .

    No idea if the housing gasket is the problem, but it’s the only thing I can think of.

    I keep the underside of the car really clean, so even tho it’s a tiny drip so far, hopefully I can spot it.

    It sounds like a PITA to fix; (the things we do for love, LOL!)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    Oil Filter Housing Gasket

    Follow up; I’m losing a few drips every night. Still not enough to show on the dipstick after a few weeks, but I have to deal with it. Definitely does not drip with the car hot / running. Not yet anyway.

    Could it be that the (4?) bolts holding the housing have worked loose? Are there torque specs for those? Thought I’d try that first. 114k on the motor.

    Also, dumb question: these bolts go through the water jacket? I never would have thought to drain the coolant first, so guess I would have been in for a surprise. Thanks.

    P.S. Permatex on the backside of the new gasket, correct? Or is this meant to be a dry fit? Tnx.

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    Last edited by Svashtar; 12-02-2017 at 09:31 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #5
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    It's the gasket. Replace it

    You will need to drain the coolant first
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

    Current marauders
    04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg

    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
    03 DBP Light Flint #122
    03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
    03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
    03 Black 300a
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works

    04 Heaton Swapped DTR
    Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread

  6. #6
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    The coolant passes through the housing to the block from the radiator. There is one big coolant passage and 2 oil passages, torque spec is 18 ft lbs but I just did 20. You will have to remove the sender unit, (makes it easier to access bolts), also use a gasket sealer, I used "the right stuff".

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthShoreChiMM View Post
    The coolant passes through the housing to the block from the radiator. There is one big coolant passage and 2 oil passages, torque spec is 18 ft lbs but I just did 20. You will have to remove the sender unit, (makes it easier to access bolts), also use a gasket sealer, I used "the right stuff".

    Thanks, appreciate the specific info. I have some Permatex aviation form a gasket stuff that should work. Not 100% on the sending unit, but I’ll figure it out. I know I did some rewiring there years ago when I installed the real OP gauge.

    Thanks again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Could it be that the (4?) bolts holding the housing have worked loose? Are there torque specs for those? Thought I’d try that first. 114k on the motor.
    It could be, I’ve seen them work loose and it might buy you some time, but it will eventually fail, I’ve done three so far.
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox (sold)
    2004 DTR - shitbox #2

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
    It could be, I’ve seen them work loose and it might buy you some time, but it will eventually fail, I’ve done three so far.

    Thanks. Three? Damn, in how many miles?

    I think I’m going to put this down along with the COT O-ring leaks to all the pounding I did on the block to get the old WP out. Just too coincidental all these failures within a few hundred miles of that install it seems to me.

    But maybe it was just time for these to fail. I don’t know about three though. After this one I expect to get another 100K before I have to do it again.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Thanks. Three? Damn, in how many miles?

    I think I’m going to put this down along with the COT O-ring leaks to all the pounding I did on the block to get the old WP out. Just too coincidental all these failures within a few hundred miles of that install it seems to me.

    But maybe it was just time for these to fail. I don’t know about three though. After this one I expect to get another 100K before I have to do it again.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Three different marauders, one was about 130k, one was 160k, and one was 80k
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox (sold)
    2004 DTR - shitbox #2

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
    Three different marauders, one was about 130k, one was 160k, and one was 80k

    Got it; wish I had that problem! Just one MM to worry about here, and right now it’s only a nit, but I can see it getting worse over time.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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