Last edited by Agent2006; 02-22-2019 at 06:37 PM.
Zombie Marauder: Big updates!
---installed new bleeder cap/spliced into top rad hose
---replaced crud-tastic metal heater tube with 5/8" rubber line
---replaced BSCM (which was apparently shorted out blowing multiple fuses
---replaced DDM
---replaced drivers door arm rest
---details: bleeder cap/fitting is a junkyard 2004 Dakota part with a new radiator cap from Advance auto
---tips for replacing heater tube - true the one end is 3/4" and the other is 5/8", but you won't have enough 3/4" length to get the heater core pipe and the adapter barb on there, so buy 1 ft of new 3/4" hose to use. I used 3 ft of 5/8". My old tube disintegrated when I went to take it off, it was on borrowed time.
---See my rig to get to the BSCM screws -there are two 8mm, it's a 1/4" drive, U joint, short extension, then to a 3/8" drive/ratchet. Otherwise you won't have enough room to get on the one screw head. See I taped the screw in place, but I took that off and used baling wire to keep it there, or it WILL fall down when you are twisting/wrestling it in place. Need to remove the outboard heater core rubber supply line and bend it down out of the way.
---EATC works fine on all speeds and through the vents.
---MM door panel I got had a trashed arm rest, pretty bad when a junked taxi cab one was in better shape. I chiseled off the white plastic melt heads on the back side, then used self tapping screws to affix it to my MM door panel. Much better.
everything seems to work inside the car, lights, locks, EATC, stereo, dash clock!
next job is to make sure the cooling system is bled all the way, hopefully easier with my homemade rig but I'm proceeding with extreme caution, a few heat cycles and use of the ramps... next mechanical thing is to get the front end aligned...any tips on a 1 1/2" lowered MM alignment specs?
Last edited by Agent2006; 02-24-2019 at 02:57 PM.
Lowered that much I guarantee you will need a set of these if there isn’t already.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365
Other than that look for Carfixer’s alignment specs on here and run with it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Thanks Justbob, I'll have to verify the 1 1/2" drop, doesn't look that low.
Picture after claybar, black magic, then Meguiar's...
Other idea I had ---splice in a Tee 5/8" to the heater hose I just installed , and run a hose line to the driver's head top freeze plug with a 5/8 " brass barb threaded in, then puddle high-lead solder around the threaded area. Cheapo- head cooling mod, not as great as the On3 mods, I know, but:at around $25 bucks, seems like a good idea. no ticking or miss at all, but NOW might be a good time to do this before I get to that point. After sitting for days, I see a wisp of blue/white smoke from the left pipe only, upon first start up. Then nothing...Valve stem seal on #8 cyl getting tired?
Thoughts?
Zack and Musclemerc have been making the freeze plug cooling mod kits for like a decade. You can say it’s been proven to work this long.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
I swear his car had eaton detroit lowering coils and SPC camber bolts. Measure from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, if you have a 235/50 up front it should be easy to tell if it's lowered.
My black car which I dropped an inch is about 27.5", my red car which is on coilovers is currently just under 27" but I know it was 27" dead on when I had the 1.5 eaton detroit drop springs on it.
2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005
2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
2063/3214
(Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
5377/7838
2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB
1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors
Thanks offroadkarter, I'll check that measurement.
Also: not sure I just didn't blow a DDM fuse just now, might have the odd switch problem...I got a generic CV/MGM brand new master driver door's switch assembly maybe from Amazon, or ebay, and not sure what is on the pass front door, I got that 2003 MM pass door panel from ebay and the actual switch out of a junked 2000 MGM....quite a mix/match of parts on my door lock circuits,,,,
Last edited by Agent2006; 02-25-2019 at 07:08 PM.
Gettin' close!
Bled the cooling system today, on car ramps, with my crossover tube/radiator cap. Multi step process, System releasing all remaining air, heater full blast, just a 1/4 cup more in there...then
DRIP
DRIP DRIP
DRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIP
--junkyard Dodge Dakota 1.5" radiator cap/tube cracked. Because Chrysler. The auxiliary burp cap is a good concept I think.
So, I ordered an aluminum one from Summit....should be here in a couple of days.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-3423
Also picked up insurance on the car, painted the fender and nose with a spray can, Rustoleum 2X black high gloss + will cover with 2K clear and wet sand/buff. pics soon.
(Yeah, full strip/repaint someday , or when Powerball hits...but for a driver black MM, the match is not bad! For those suffering white/gray skin disease and cannot $$$ a full repaint. Might tide you over...)
Door lock issue. Blew fuses everytime I hit the button .Yanked the door lock button on my replacement switch panel it is a later version 4W7T-14963-AAW ...to offroadkarters comment maybe not compatible with my DDM. I'll stop by the dealer, give them my VIN and see what the correct P/N is.
looking online... - "4W7Z-14028-AAA" is allegedly the correct switch for MM's. I can tell you my car now --HIT the lock button --- then look at fuse 23--- it will be blown. Will verify at the dealer tomorrow.
Last edited by Agent2006; 03-14-2019 at 06:20 AM.
Update--just hit the 1,000 mile mark since she got back on the road. Runs great! (why oh why do my pix post sideways or upside down? Windows Hate, Windows 8...)
Update: ECM failure (fixed $400, plus $400 tow) June 2019 around 140K...water pump failure ($65, plus $400 tow) around 145K...left front hub/bearing at 149 K ($100 bucks no tow: use loctite blue on the hub bolts, or you'll be doing it twice and maybe replacing a brake hose! lol)... right rear axle seal/bearing Aug 2021 (fixed $200 in parts, no tow)...factory black MGM left fender to replace ebay junk... .... saw-zalled out sketchy aftermarket H-pipe (Mustang?) due to rust outs/leaking at the H, diameter 2.25" was welded to stock 2.0" flanges...new JEGS 2.25" aluminized H pipe was $65 bucks....pix soon. Running great at 151K.
Last edited by Agent2006; 01-04-2022 at 07:43 PM.
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