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Thread: Chassis Upgrade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    110

    Chassis Upgrade

    So I bought this car last summer and have slowly been pecking away at it. Price was right and the fact that it was mostly original with used up parts gave me the freedom to make it that much better and not feel bad about driving the hell out of it. I've removed all the hokey stuff, chased the electrical gremins, and now I'm working on the chassis. I have the service records from the previous owner and I think the only thing he ever did was regular oil changes and warranty work at the dealer. That left a lot of parts needing love. I’ve learned so much from the threads here that I wanted to put together my distillation of what I chose to take from them.

    First up was researching and planning for an improved suspension. Thanks to lifespeed and your relentless pursuit of handling. I really liked the comprehensive trial and adjust in this thread and this thread but I need to do my suspension on a budget so as much as I would love to, I will not be doing the custom valved shock upgrades anytime soon. I did save the shock dynos for later though.

    I put the car up stands and set to taking everything apart. I knew about and found; bad upper ball joints,broken front driver sway bar endlink, cracked front passenger coil spring, blown driver rear shock, rotted and cracked air bags, and compressed shock bushings all the way around. The previous owner really didn’t do anything to the running gear of this car. Everything was the original 110,000 mile parts and hardware.

    Below is a picture of what came apart for the rear and everything that replaced it. I forgot to take that picture for the front. Remember, I’m on a budget so I waited until I found some 20% off ebay coupons and additional sale discounts to buy my metco control arms and watts link for $500 total. That turned out to be an even better deal because the vendor listed it as having the air ride bracket so when it arrived without (which apparently they all do now) they promptly sent me the bracket separately at no charge.

    Here is everything that I put into it. I’ll comment after the list about some of the components.

    Rear:
    Metco upper and lower control arms - MCA0016
    Metco watts link with air ride bracket - MWL0304
    Stock watts pivot was firm and tight so it stayed
    KYB shocks - 555603
    KYB shock mounting kit -SM256
    “new” junkyard OEM cream colored firestone airbags. they looked like they were on the car 1000 miles
    Rubber sway bar bushings and links for existing 7/8” bar

    Front:
    Moog PI loaded aluminum lower control arms - RK80395/6
    Moog forged upper control arm - RK80038/40
    Moog sway bar endinks - K80140
    Rubber 1.25” sway bar bushings
    Used stock front coil from Comin' in Hot, thanks man!
    Ford struts - ASH24540


    With the blown shock and broken sway bar link you can imagine that this thing rode like Clarkson’s 3-story condo camper. Now it is fantastic but in my own pursuit I think it may need a few tweaks. The combination of the cream colored bags with the much stiffer bushings makes for a very well balanced rear suspension that has no hint of pounding. The KYB shocks cycle once and hold there, no floating, so let’s hope they don’t leak all over my driveway anytime soon. I did not like the bolts that came with the Metco watts link. The slot that they mill in the bar is significantly larger than the stock slot, so the small diameter washers and lock washers wanted to cant down into the bolt slot. In my parts bin I was able to find some factory nuts with captive washer that fit in the metco hardware slot so that made me feel alot better.

    On the front I noticed and was surprised that my factory lower control arms had the original Ford non-pi rear bushings. I upgraded to the PI bushings which have more rubber in them. For the uppers, the moog arms were not setup to use the factory spacers, so I pressed the bushings in a little farther to make sure I could reuse the stock shims/spacers. I’m impressed with the Ford struts because they were listed for the car and seem very well balanced for the stock springs. Again, no floating, just one cycle and stuck to the road. I am struggling a little with the ride height though. It’s not obtuse but I was used to looking at the car with compressed bushings and a broken spring. That gave me somewhere close to a 1-1.25” drop compared to where I am now. Ride height is compounded by the tires the original owner chose, 245/55 fronts and 265/50 rears.

    Overall I feel this car must be handling much better than when it was new but I never got to drive one back then. My only complaint is that there’s still more front roll than I would like when cornering at speed. The rear feels like it is on rails, but the front rolls out just a touch. I have no idea whose bars are on this thing but the front bar has the shim plates under the bushings and both bars seem to be solid. I’m trying to decide between finding stiffer bars or maybe cutting down some PI front springs to stiffen the ride- BBSS vs SBBS or somewhere in between. My research seems to indicate that the Marauder springs are the same rate as the PI of the same year but have a 1” shorter free length so cutting the PI down would increase spring rate. Until I sort that out, I am going to keep driving it and restoring it. In the meantime I’ll be working on putting together a big brake upgrade.

    I thought I took one but I can’t find it so I will take a side shot of the car tomorrow so you can see the new ride height… just don’t judge me for the terrible looking brakes, they’re next. Thanks for all the information everyone has collected over the years. I’m late to the game but hopefully having just as much fun putting this car back on the road.


    Well shoot, looks like I'm out of attachment space so I'll have to deal with all the pictures later.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Schenectady, NY
    Posts
    1,246
    Might have missed it, but aftermarket sway bars front and back make a huge difference in the body roll. Nice post and good work!
    300A Black
    4:10 gears, Flowmaster 44's with rear cat delete, SW headers with 3 inch cats to 2.5 custom h. 3500 stall, Twisted synergy dyno tune, addco f/r , rear control arms, Novi 1200 air to air with the fixings.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Sacramento
    Posts
    3,738
    ^^^^ +1

    Addco front and rear sway bar and (sounds sophomoric) these big sleds needs stiff sidewalled tires.


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Somewhere in the N.C. Triangle
    Age
    68
    Posts
    26,250
    Quote Originally Posted by camelgrundle View Post
    Might have missed it, but aftermarket sway bars front and back make a huge difference in the body roll. Nice post and good work!
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    ^^^^ +1

    Addco front and rear sway bar and (sounds sophomoric) these big sleds needs stiff sidewalled tires.
    +1!

    I'd also install Energy Suspension greaseable sway bar bushings to fit the Addco upgraded sway bars.

    Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
    Rear – 9.5161

    How to mod for installing the greaseable rear sway bar bushings.

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ad.php?t=93480

    Consider adding the Metco driveshaft hoop.
    Last edited by fastblackmerc; 04-11-2019 at 07:45 AM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    110
    Thanks guys, I have the stock 21mm (7/8") rear bar. I thought it was aftermarket but checked again just to make sure. The front appears to have been upgraded to the addco solid 1.25" bar. I say addco because it has the bushing to frame spacers that I think they used to be (maybe still are) supplied with. The bar probably came from DR back in the day because that was also where the tune came from.


    And the mention of tire sidewall- it is having an impact. I can feel the NT555 sidewall roll; probably worse because of the sizes he chose. That aside, I am getting more body roll than I want and seem to feel it in the front. Could be tail lift but it just doesn't feel like that, so I have to decide what I am going to do about the bars. I am not impressed with the lead time from addco and not sure I can get anything bigger. Maybe I'll swap to a 3-piece bar for the front and upgrade to a larger diameter 1-piece bar in the back (ala Bondurant).


    Anyone have a set of stock coil springs they've cut and want to let go cheap? The more I look at the front of this car, the more it needs to come down. I probably ought to do that and see what the spring rate does before I start jacking with the bars.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Moreau Island
    Posts
    12,209
    ADTR has bars as well. Think they are made by Eibach for ADTR. Check out CV.net, believe ADTR is a sponsor.

    Should be a sponsor here as well.

    I found all the suspension upgrades made MsD's cars ride much harsher than my at the time stock system. I have added CHE CA's and Watt's link and my ride stiffened up a bit. Ms.D's car handles better than mine, so it is a trade off. I don't think I'm going to do the sway bars as I'm more about comfort.

    There was some talk a while ago Sparta Performance (vendor) was looking into a front CA upgrade. Not sure if it ever went anywhere. Maybe if Tommy reads this thread he'll chime in on whatever happened.
    Last edited by Mr. Man; 04-11-2019 at 03:17 PM.

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