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Thread: RUST: Rear door drivers side

  1. #1

    RUST: Rear door drivers side

    So a few years ago my window regulator cabling went out. Had it replaced. About a year ago I noticed a second reverberation when ever I closed the rear door....don't do that that often.
    Staring at my rear door I realized I've got two rust spots forming on the lower side of the door.
    What are my options.....get a door form the junk yard and replace the trim to match....or is it bondo time???
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  2. #2
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    rust needs removed/replaced with new metal..Get a rust free door from a Maraduer, CV, MGM..you'll have to transfer the door outside middle molding over with new double sided trim tape. 1998-2011 will work
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  3. #3
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    Scrape off the rust. Clean the inner portion of the door and outer portion, then coat multiple times with rust bullet or por-15
    No need for a new door LMAO

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    Scrape off the rust. Clean the inner portion of the door and outer portion, then coat multiple times with rust bullet or por-15
    No need for a new door LMAO
    ^^^THIS^^^ problem solved
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zack View Post
    Scrape off the rust. Clean the inner portion of the door and outer portion, then coat multiple times with rust bullet or por-15
    No need for a new door LMAO
    depends how bad it is..if it started on the inside of door at the seam in the bottom, you'll never get rid of it.
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  6. #6
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    I agree. It all depends on how bad it is. I had rust forming on the bottom of two of my doors and spent a few days sanding, priming and painting. A year later it was back. I went to a couple of repair shops and they told me they could make it look like new again, but the rust was inside and would start to come back to the surface within 6 months to a year. The answer ending up getting two rust-free GMQ doors from the local boneyard, new trim and painting them to match. No more rust.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambitious1 View Post
    I agree. It all depends on how bad it is. I had rust forming on the bottom of two of my doors and spent a few days sanding, priming and painting. A year later it was back. I went to a couple of repair shops and they told me they could make it look like new again, but the rust was inside and would start to come back to the surface within 6 months to a year. The answer ending up getting two rust-free GMQ doors from the local boneyard, new trim and painting them to match. No more rust.
    If you didn't coat them with a rust encapsulator, it will come back.

  8. #8
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    I've done this a few times and while not every fix held up, some of them have (for years, including Ohio winters).

    IME for this specific job (rust in the lower seam), Rust Bullet and KBS Coatings' Rust Seal work a lot better than either POR15 or Rust Encapsulator (though I do otherwise like the latter).

    I grind out all the rust I can get to with things like small diamond burrs on a rotary tool. Use a flex-shaft extension to get down inside the door. Then I saturate the area, really the whole seam, with Rust Bullet's Metal Blast. Keep that dwelling g for a looooong time. It needs rinsed lest it leave too much zinc behind, and I usually use the steamer so I don't contaminate the area.

    Allow to dry.

    Then apply a few coats of the Rust Bullet/Rust Seal, especially inside the door. More is generally better and I've never overdone it yet.

    Apply touch up paint to visible areas before the Rust Bullet/Rust Seal cures or else you'll have to sand with 320 or use a good *self-etching* primer.

    Then, and this can be crucial, seal it inside the door with a REALLY GOOD anti-rust product. If you're using an aerosol (I.e., not a pro undercoating gun that really atomizes the stuff) I'd absolutely go with KBS's Cavity Coater, which works better for this specific job than my usual faves.

    Doesn't always stop the rust for good, but it does it more often than any of the jobs my autobody guys ever did.

  9. #9
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    Its always the driver's rear door.... on all of the panther cars. I wonder what happened at the factory to make this such an issue....
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  10. #10
    Agree with the above statement. All my other doors are fine. I've had the window regulator replaced on this door. Was wondering if something was left out in terms of waterproofing when it was put back together.
    Probably buy a junked door and paint to match. Are a CV/GM door compatible?
    Mischief Managed!
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    105k miles.
    04MM Fully Loaded.
    Trillogy Stage II
    Metco RCA
    Baer Big A$$ Brakes
    GT40 Fuel Pump
    Lowered Suspension

  11. #11
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    Funny you say that , I conquer, I dont have any significant rust on the Marauder , maybe because I spent it's actual value on a complete repaint.
    The 2002 GMQ, HPP, LSE has significant rust on the Drivers side rear door!
    Quote Originally Posted by Curless View Post
    Its always the driver's rear door.... on all of the panther cars. I wonder what happened at the factory to make this such an issue....
    2004 Trilogy #93P 12.2@113 Built and stalled

  12. #12
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    Are the weep holes taped over or plugged? Mine were taped over. One of the first things I did was to remove the tape after I picked up my MM.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Are the weep holes taped over or plugged? Mine were taped over. One of the first things I did was to remove the tape after I picked up my MM.
    Just did this to my front and rear pass. doors...was wondering why it held water...

  14. #14
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    the Marauder had the weep holes at the bottom of the doors blocked with tape too. I got the LSE used three years old , but did not have the hole blocked from the outside.
    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Are the weep holes taped over or plugged? Mine were taped over. One of the first things I did was to remove the tape after I picked up my MM.
    2004 Trilogy #93P 12.2@113 Built and stalled

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