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Thread: 2003 MM Rear end build guidance appreciated.

  1. #46
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    Well I tend to agree, I can only hope that based on the other work of theirs I have seen that towards the end he got a little more rushed.

    You can see where he worked it over in sections I guess the question is how do I check it?

    After looking at the shop staff, My guess is that he did the one side himself, the older guy

    and the first few passes on the other side and let his new guy have a go after he did the the under stuff on the second side. To learn feeling that he couldn't "hurt it"

    Is the quality of the weld job enough to consider not using it?

    I will agree that from now on I will do all the work myself regardless of what additional skills I need to learn.

    I rarely expect the best in life and work out of other people but Crap definitely agitates me.

    That being said a world class welding job show piece is not needed. this is not a show car by any means. I want to build it up to be driven for another decade or two with more power.

    That being said I would appreciate being able to ask Seneca about his turbo build and any links to his posts would be great.

    I have read that marauder blocks are a little thicker, I have no reservations against using the stock engine for a twin turbo rebuild. wouldn't mind a forged crank like the mach 1 manual came with. don't think a 4340 is necessary.

  2. #47
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    These blocks and cranks can withstand big power, just ditch the rods and pistons.

    The heads flow great as well, just a simple valve job and good to go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #48
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    What a properly welded 8.8 etc. looks like:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #49
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    Jun 2011
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    Northeast OH
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    Seneca thread about his twin turbo build
    https://mercurymarauder.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=93530
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  5. #50
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    I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

    I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

    It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

    Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.

  6. #51
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    Aug 2011
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    Wisconsin
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    Quote Originally Posted by justgod View Post
    What a properly welded 8.8 etc. looks like:

    Welding porn... I love it!

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
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  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyMerc View Post
    I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

    I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

    It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

    Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.
    I'll be honest with you. Both sides of the metals should be freshly sanded/ground to bare metal and good tack welds at opposite sides at minimum before complete welding, which should be done in some sort of jig. Even the Miller welders manual online I believe mentions tube welds with straightness a priority and how to accomplish this. Metal will expand and shrink with heat and cooling. If those aren't straight, you will go though wheel bearings and possibly odd tire wear. Maybe even diff fluid leaking. Just be aware. Also be aware with how you bring this up as the last thing you want to do is piss off the guy welding on your car.

  8. #53
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    Aug 2018
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    Indianapolis
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    well they spray painted it down to prevent the welds from rusting with rust coloured paint, the irony is not lost on me....

    I know for a fact it was ground to clean metal before they welded it I saw it prepped before welding.

    This shop literally has welded and fabricated hundred of cars over a 25 year period if not more I don't see it being possible for them not to know.

    I just do not know how to explain this really considering the work they have done for other customers.

    as far as the owner is concerned I am not trying to offend him, but i do not care if i do they wont be allowed near my car again. And to be honest if this is what was needed for me to plop the money down on a welder and start learning so be it.

    My dreams will not be held ransom to crap welders.

    To be honest I am not sure if I am going to chance it.

    I guess at this point I will see how everything looks and feels during assembly. I know that's not a scientific way to tell but If its messed up because of that I will hand him a folder of documentation explaining what a shop of that type should be capable of, and what potential carelessness does and costs someone as a result.

    thank you for the insight.

  9. #54
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    Aug 2018
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    Indianapolis
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    41
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    Has anyone had any experience using the combined seal axle bearings?


    such as the CENTRIC 41464000

    https://www.carid.com/centric/premiu...8aAh9ZEALw_wcB

    or

    National Bearing Wheel Bearings NNTRP5707


    since there is more material and what looks like a built in race, I would Like to go with that style.

    Just not sure if anyone can confirm the fitment. I read one forum where a person said its not compatible with parking brake, and another that basically said it does.

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